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Axel nut size on RTL

canamjhb

Well-known member
I need to know the size of the axel nut on a 2014 RTL. I am about to do a belt adjustment and want to make sure I have the right size socket to torque it when done. Thanks.....
 
36mm

That would be a 36 mm socket----- same as used to change the oil filter on the 1330 motor. Let us know how the belt adjustment turns out.
Lew L
 
Not sure....

All the ones I have run across are 36mm and I don't think they changed them but the F3 I do not know anything about it....Funny part is the parts catalog shows them all to be M24....:dontknow: My RS 2012 is 36 mm
 
All the ones I have run across are 36mm and I don't think they changed them but the F3 I do not know anything about it....Funny part is the parts catalog shows them all to be M24....:dontknow: My RS 2012 is 36 mm
You know this already but the M24 is referring to the diameter of the axle and threads, so the wrench size for the nut is naturally the larger 36mm.
 
On the exhaust side I like to use this wrench as a backup. Just don't tell the Harley riders.....:lecturef_smilie::lecturef_smilie::lecturef_smilie::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MTK39S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That wrench would have been a BIG help. Since there is not enough room on the nut side to get a socket and torque wrench on, I checked the torque on the bolt side and came up with 130 ft/lbs. That's the way it came out and that's the way it went back together. This was my first time doing the belt adjustment myself. It was a bit more of a PITA that I anticipated. Next time will be much easier. My belt tension is now at 150# with wheel off the ground and there is about a 1mm gap between the rear sprocket inner flange and the edge of the belt. The dealer that installed my rear tire had the belt tension at 200# wheel off and the belt was centered on the rear sprocket.
 
Me too

On the exhaust side I like to use this wrench as a backup. Just don't tell the Harley riders.....:lecturef_smilie::lecturef_smilie::lecturef_smilie::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MTK39S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have that wrench also. But to be able to torque the nut like you're supposed to I cut down a 36mm six point socket in my chop saw so I can get my torque wrench on the exhaust side. I use the "Harley Wrench" on the other side. I like the "VW Wrench", better to insult a stoner than a Hell's Angel.
 
I ordered the VW type also. I did manage to get the job done without loosing any blood. But this wrench will make future life a lot easier. Ownership is a never ending learning process
 
Has anybody ever checked to see if the torque was off if it was done on the bolt side? I torque a lot of stuff and it shouldn't matter. And evidently it doesn't effect the bearings. Our '14 RT has 48,000 miles with the original bearings and has been torqued on the bolt side dozens of times.
 
I seems to me that if the nut is torqued to spec, then the bolt would show a higher reading to loosen. The nut only has the torque and the friction of the threads and washer to deal with. But the bolt has all that plus additional friction of it's own washer, everything it comes into contact with and compressions, etc. As mentioned in my previous post, it took 130#s of torque to loosen the bolt (from the bolt side) so I put it back in using the same value. When I get the new VW 36mm wrench, I will be able to check the nut torque to make sure it is within spec.
 

If you keep the adapter at 90 degrees to the torque wrench, the torque is the same.
Put it in line with the torque wrench and adjust the torque as needed per the instructions on this page. https://www.norbar.com/en-us/Home/Torque-Wrench-Extension-Calculator They have links for smartphone apps to do the recalculation for you. The advantage of putting on in line is you don't have to pull so hard on the wrench to get the required torque.
 
There's ONE left. Brand name equivalents are in the $40 to $70 price range, if you can find one!
I decided to cancel my order for the VW one from eBay and to buy this one. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4882-Rear-Axle-Wrench/dp/B00R7ORS34 The OTC 4882 is about $36 to $40, twice what the HD one is. But here's the real advantage of this one over the other two above. The OTC is something like 8" center to center. Added to my 17" long, 1/2" drive torque wrench the torque I have to apply with my aging arm is only 113 lb-ft to reach the specified torque of 166 lb-ft on the axle nut. The OTC has a 1/2" square hole while the HD one has only a 3/8" drive hole. My 3/8" torque wrench won't anywhere near get me to the torque needed. The VW one would work but it's shorter than the OTC one so would I would need to pull about 128 lb-ft. Also the OTC one is a 12 point wrench whereas the other two are 6 point. That means less of a turn to grab the next bite on the nut. Even though 6 pt is less likely to round off a hex nut in this case the 12 pt will be good. I haven't seen any rounding from using a 12 pt socket. For turning the nut until it's at the point of torquing the HD one would be best as it is longest. The OTC wrench is longer than the VW one so it'll work almost as good as the HD one for turning the nut up to torque time.

So, in the end more money but the best overall choice, IMO.
 
I believe the correct torque for the RTL axel is 96 ft/lb. Anyway, that information about torque calculator is very helpful and easy to apply.
 
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