• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

AWESOME combo: Shock Relocator--Swaybar--Elka shocks

I can confirm this. I have an EVO bar on my RS-S. A friend let me borrow his BajaRon bar while he was on vacation for a week. The BajaRon bar performed significantly better. I was not expecting this because they were the same diameter so I made the swap several more times to compare them again and again. The BajaRon bar is indeed better. It also has superior mounting.

I would recommend the BajaRon bar as a significant upgrade to anyone who owns an EVO bar.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Now I have 2 suspension mods to try, the Bajabar and the relocators. I also note your advice on safety and I assure you that after any mod, I bring my speeds up gradually and carefully. So far I haven't gotten out of shape in the corners, but I will heed your caution about over-springing. I won't chuck the Evo till I'm sure the Bajabar isn't overkill on my rig.
 
I have also installed Elka's, shock relocators and Baja ron sway bar on my 2011 RS. I did not change the factory settings on the elka's and with this setup the nose has a higher lift than before. Went into the twisties this weekend and lifted the inside wheel up multiple times going hard into the corners (chasing my BMW GS and RT friends). Reduced the preload three turns on both front Elka's which also dropped the front nose height about a half inch. Going to try out again and find out the best setup for both curve performance and ride. We have lots of rough roads on the Navajo reservation in Northern AZ so I'm hoping that the Elka's will provide a smoother ride than the RT front shocks I had on before.

With the Kewl metal air intake, power commander, hindle exhaust, baja ron plugs and wires plus running premium gas - the local dealer techs were amazed that they could break the rear tire (spin the tire) loose going from first to second gear. Next stop is Turbo, need to get more HP to catch those 125HP BMW's.
 
Hmm - I might need to check my headlights too. Good thought.

Isn't it fun?!!
I found the adjuster knob for the head lights under the right side tupperware mounted right above the radiator, I confirmed this by looking in the owners manual, the fog lamp adjuster is under the seat on the RT. Learning more and more about my:f_spider:.
 
Rickylen is the owner of Pitbull Powersports in Springfield, MO. His website is http://www.pitbullpowersportsinc.com/index.htm. I don't know that he has the shock relocator kit in his online store yet or not, but you could send a message and ask. :thumbup:

Thank's for the replay Faran I did go to his webpage, did a search for it and all it would say was did you mean this, so yes I will have to e:mail him did not know ho he was at the time so thanks for that. :ohyea:
 
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I knew I wanted to get the shocks for a while, but my husband kinda-sorta encouraged me to wait. But after reading your message, Faran - and all the others - I had to do it! So I just called and ordered both front and a rear shocks plus the relocators. Gave Len my weight and that of my co-rider to make sure I was getting everything right. FINALLY! It is on its way. Now all I have to do is work with my husband to get them installed. Sure will make my RT-S more stable on the highway. (already have the upgraded swaybar)

Madonna

Faran - today, you are an enabler. Thank you! :clap:
 
WHERE CAN I GET YOUR GOS SHIRTS FROM

Right now the only ones we have available are the gray pinstriped logo shirts and they are available for sale by calling Pitbull Powersports (417-863-1418). We'll be printing more shirts soon and will announce how to order on our Girls on Spyders Facebook page when they are available. Are you already a member of that group? If not, then click on the link on bottom right hand corner of the Home page of Spyderlovers. It'll take you to the Facebook page to request to join. :thumbup:
 
I found the adjuster knob for the head lights under the right side tupperware mounted right above the radiator, I confirmed this by looking in the owners manual, the fog lamp adjuster is under the seat on the RT. Learning more and more about my:f_spider:.
Just one more question about them:
Which way do they get turned to lower the headlight beams?
Clockwise, or Counter-clockwise? :dontknow:
 
Just one more question about them:
Which way do they get turned to lower the headlight beams?
Clockwise, or Counter-clockwise? :dontknow:

Set the rear suspension pressure to 0 using the schrader valve. Then position the vehicle in front of a perpendicular test surface (wall) 33' from the headlight to the wall. Place 200lbs of ballast on the drivers seat and center the focus point between 25-28" above the floor.

JT
 
Set the rear suspension pressure to 0 using the schrader valve. Then position the vehicle in front of a perpendicular test surface (wall) 33' from the headlight to the wall. Place 200lbs of ballast on the drivers seat and center the focus point between 25-28" above the floor.

JT

I would not recommend setting the rear suspension to zero, especially with the seat weighted. That approach could set your headlights much lower than desired when in actual use, when the suspension is at the normal setting.
 
I would not recommend setting the rear suspension to zero, especially with the seat weighted. That approach could set your headlights much lower than desired when in actual use, when the suspension is at the normal setting.

I wonder why the service manual says to do that?

JT
 
I wonder why the service manual says to do that?

JT

I thought it was odd, too. It would tend to explain why the headlights on most Spyders are aimed too high from the factory, however.

I'm not much of a fan of measured headlight adjustments anyway. If the beams are too high and I am being flashed all the time, I lower them a bit. If they are too low to see well, I raise them. Not sure why it has become rocket science.
 
I thought it was odd, too. It would tend to explain why the headlights on most Spyders are aimed too high from the factory, however.

I'm not much of a fan of measured headlight adjustments anyway. If the beams are too high and I am being flashed all the time, I lower them a bit. If they are too low to see well, I raise them. Not sure why it has become rocket science.

rocket.jpg
 
I have a 2012 RT that I put the anti-sway bar on and shock relocators. It made the bike ride great! I have stock shocks and set the springs with the load on the bike. Some day I might change the shocks but it rides nice. It took the body sway out going down the hwy. that can take you right off the road when a blast of wind hits you.:clap:I agree about the spring settings. If I have a lot in the trunk, with me and wife it needs cranked up. Cranked back with load off.:banghead: I love how it rides on the curves with this setup!!!!!:thumbup:
 
I thought it was odd, too. It would tend to explain why the headlights on most Spyders are aimed too high from the factory, however.

I'm not much of a fan of measured headlight adjustments anyway. If the beams are too high and I am being flashed all the time, I lower them a bit. If they are too low to see well, I raise them. Not sure why it has become rocket science.

I guess they had to come up with something... it will be interesting to see how much the headlight aiming point changes with load and rear shock settings.

There seems to be a sweet spot that is not too annoying for oncoming drivers but lets you see well.

JT
 
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