Audio System

[xpeschon]

There are 3 links below of the system that I ordered today to install on the spyder... I know these machines are pretty sensitive however, I would really like to attempt to install this myself---Depending on the feedback I get off this threat will determine if I want to try and take on this adventure and if not there is a LOCAL installer here that can put it in for me but he is rather expensive but if need be I will have them install it. Another thing--- as for the Volts verses Watts verses the output that the spyder is putting out as far as POWER do you think this system is too much???? Please see the links below and give some feedback on this from all you expert installers.. I can tell you this about me I can handle most all wrench type problems but the eletrical is my WEAKEST subject for sure,, Oh if possible can somewhat scan a picture of the Wire Digram of the syder for me off the service manual so I can start reference it and looking it over a bit, I still have to get one, this will be by next purchase for sure.. I did find some pretty darn good prices on this site, or at least I thought they where pretty good, anybody ever buy from these folks before?? I beleive MO LEE has dealt with this people if my memory service me right
Thanks in advance
Joe
PS: See below iteam,, oh also there will be another link in there for a Intercom system, I have not ordered it but considering it???

http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/...__yacht_2_speakers__amplifier__radio_pkg.html

http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/...TROL_FOR_SHKCYCLERADIOKIT250_SYSTEM_ONLY.html

http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/SHKMOTSUBWOOFER/6_INCH_MARINE_GRADE_MOTORCYCLE_SUBWOOFER.html

Considering this intercom::

http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/SHKMBT88I/new_Motorcycle_Bluetooth_Multi_Interphone_headsets.html

 

[aka1004]

There are 3 links below of the system that I ordered today to install on the spyder... I know these machines are pretty sensitive however, I would really like to attempt to install this myself---Depending on the feedback I get off this threat will determine if I want to try and take on this adventure and if not there is a LOCAL installer here that can put it in for me but he is rather expensive but if need be I will have them install it. Another thing--- as for the Volts verses Watts verses the output that the spyder is putting out as far as POWER do you think this system is too much???? Please see the links below and give some feedback on this from all you expert installers.. I can tell you this about me I can handle most all wrench type problems but the eletrical is my WEAKEST subject for sure,, Oh if possible can somewhat scan a picture of the Wire Digram of the syder for me off the service manual so I can start reference it and looking it over a bit, I still have to get one, this will be by next purchase for sure.. I did find some pretty darn good prices on this site, or at least I thought they where pretty good, anybody ever buy from these folks before?? I beleive MO LEE has dealt with this people if my memory service me right
Thanks in advance
Joe
PS: See below iteam,, oh also there will be another link in there for a Intercom system, I have not ordered it but considering it???

http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/...__yacht_2_speakers__amplifier__radio_pkg.html

http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/...TROL_FOR_SHKCYCLERADIOKIT250_SYSTEM_ONLY.html

http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/SHKMOTSUBWOOFER/6_INCH_MARINE_GRADE_MOTORCYCLE_SUBWOOFER.html

Considering this intercom::

http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/SHKMBT88I/new_Motorcycle_Bluetooth_Multi_Interphone_headsets.html

installation itself is not that hard if you good with wrench.
run power cable to battery with a inline fuse, get a relay from auto parts and switch it off of any thing that turns on when you turn ignition on and mount the speakers and tye-wrap the amp behind the gauge cluster and you are done!!

i know i know if you never done it before its bit more than that
but it is not that hard neither and while you are at it instead of just doing the amp, it would be good idea to install a power block for future add on.
you can switch the whole powerblock so anything you add on later will all turn off when you turn off the ignition. you can buy a powerblock for 75 bucks pre-wired or you can make one for about 20. i chose to use a simple block from radio shack with bus bar to save space. i have them mounted on the metal bar on left side. there is a 30amp main fuse close to battery and indivisual components all have a inline fuse according to amperage. i am at the office right now so can not post pics.

as far as those systems you pick out, they are not going to be real 250 watts amp and you should be ok as far as electricity draw is concerned. they probably make may be 10-20 USABLE watts. i have the very similar, almost identical set of speakers and amp from DWG and they are just good enough for me to hear at freeway speed.
now why does it say it is 250 watss amp? because unlike home stereo system, on mobile audio products the manufacturer can basically put whatever they want on their products as far as amount of power they can put out. most less expensive products are way way over-rated where most hi-end car amplifiers are under rated. brands like alpine is rated just slightly above what they are really capable of.
i believe that remote control comes with the system so you dont need to get it and that subwoofer is self-powered so you WILL have to run power cable to it too so it looks like you will need that power block. where are you planing to mount that tube thou? also make check if that amplifier has rca-out. you will need that for the subwoofer's input. if you are going ahead with this set up it would sound 2-3 times better if you get the electronic cross over. you would connect whatever source you will be using (ipod or ?) to electronic crossover and it will SEPERATE low and high frequencies of the music and send low frequency to subwoofer and high freq. to 2 handle bar mounted speakers and make everything less distorted. i will end my reply just about here its getting too long

 

[xpeschon]

Bits and Pieces here

I understand a potion of what your saying then just when I think I got it I really don't.. The terms are kind of confussing me a bit:

Power block
Bus bar
Electronic crossover

Where are you planing to mount that tube thou?

Here is my thought on the above question,, near the top of the tub I'm thinking I'm gonna have to have some type of release hole for the air right? Small 1 1/2 inch hole near the back of the top at the top,, do you think this will work?

Also make check if that amplifier has rca-out.

Why thats right, I better take a good hard look at this one, if not I will have to get another, thanks for that info, I do understand that

You would connect whatever source you will be using (ipod or ?) to electronic crossover and it will SEPERATE low and high frequencies of the music and send low frequency to subwoofer and high freq. to 2 handle bar mounted speakers and make everything less distorted.

BIG BLURR here, I will be using a MP3 player at first but future use will be an ipod.


Thanks a BUNCH for your info, and could you post some pictures of your set up if you have them?
thanks in advance
Joe

 

[Mo Lee]

Yes I have dealt with them twice and both times it was delivered within a week. The first time was for my black Valk last year I purchased the 100 watt system similar to what you ordered and yes it did come with the remote, the features of this unit are limited and require full time power to maintain memory. I think the sound is excellent but of course my choice in music is C&W. I think for the price, the speakers alone are worth that much. Recently for the Spyder I bought the amp and speakers only and use an MP3 player with a FM tuner. This system works well also with stock windshield up to around 60 Mph with a full face helmet. For the Spyder I removed the speakers from the housing welded up some mounts and mounted them inside the dash pod. I mounted the amp inside the trunk and powered it from the power plug which has a 15 second delay when the switch is turned off. Looking at the price of other systems I figure this is a good deal and I wouldn't be upset if they quit tomorrow. Joe maybe this weekend you can come by the house and I will show you how I did my systems.

 

[xpeschon]

Thanks for all the good info.. We (the Amercan Legion Riders) are having our easter egg hunt in Wayesville Park, set up time is 7:00--- Start time is 9:00--end time is 11:00 then I am headed to cowtown to get the 600 miles service, I told them that I wouldn't be able to get up there till Wednesday next week so I will be spyder less for a few days however---If you haven't got to much going on why don't you come on down to the park around 8:00 and you can maybe explain the wiring diagram, this is my MAJOR concern!!! as for mounting all the hardware, I can handle that, It will be a couple weeks before I can do anything with it, still waiting for windshield, highway pegs, 1in risers and now the stereo so I have my work cut out for me for sure....
Thanks for the info Lee

Joe

 

[aka1004]

first pic is what it looks like from ryding position
2nd pic simple inline main fuse at 30amp
3rd pic termination bar(powerblock) mounted on the rail on left side
4th pic speakers mounted on handle bar with metal strap and hose clamp
i took the mounting thing that came with speakers and bought a 4" "mending bar" from home depot and drill some holes and wrap hose clamp around the handle bar thru the mending bar.
5th pic is home-made harness i made for the termination bar

amp was small enough to fit behind gauge cluster and does not take much room

so it goes like this
battery>inline fuse>relay>termination bar>inline fuse>amp/subwoofer
if you look on the back of the packaging for relay it has the schematics,
showing which prong is what.

 

[aka1004]

that is my temporary sound system
i will get "real" sound system after i get the corbin bags
i seen few spyders with full system but none had enclosure for their hi-mid speakers which really cuts the performance of speakers. (see pic 1) they just used "convinient" location for mids and highs without considerations for performance also. but everything costs money so.....
location of speakers are so critical in system but more so on bike i think
when i first got these i mounted on the rear view mirror bar and could not hear much from the speakers and i thought i just purchased a useless crap.
but when i moved them to handle bar it was like night and day.

if i did not have f1 slider windshield, best location for highs and mids speakers would be between the tupperware and windshield. i would have a car stereo shop fabricate a enclosure with fiberglass and attach to windshield so if i need to get behind the gauge cluster i would take the windshield off.
but with f1 slider best place will be where my blind spot mirrors are.(pic 2)

even at their current location, speakers on pic 3 will perform so much better if they had enclosure behind them. there was plenty of room behind the speakers.

because of angle the speakers are mounted, there is no "stereo" effect

 

[Mo Lee]

Hey Joe

Let me know when you get your windshield, Thought I would wait to see yours before I make my decision. Cowtown did my 600 mile service in about 2 hrs so you may not be Spyderless too long. Managed to get the day off today but it might be the last one in a while, weatherman says rain today. When you get ready to start installing, I'm pretty well equipped tool wise and your welcome to do it here.

Lee

 

[xpeschon]

That really helped

Wow thanks a million aka1004, the pictures along with the expaination really helped me out... I understand pretty clearly now and plan on tackling this once I get the system and the spyder back from its 600 mile service, I take her in on Satuday and picking it up on Wednesday.. Again, Thanks a bunch.. I think I can handle this install.. I did stop by the installer yesturday to pick his brain,, Even after I bought the equipment he told me the install would run about 200.00 dollars.. This is something I think I can do now.. My ONLY concern now is I do not want to mess up the computers or have the thing go WACKING on me once I install the system.. I do plan on install a MOCK up once I get everything together, I am going to do a temp hook up in my car (Nothing neat just a hook up) so that I don't start blowing fuzes and stuff, kind of a PRACTICE so to speak and not a full install in the car, once I master this I will then do the install on the spyder... Thats my plan for right now anyway..

Joe
PS: As this develops I may have to ask you another question or two later on,, I will just PM you, or post on the threat, who knows.
thanks again brother.

 

[xpeschon]

Mo Lee I am going to take you up on your offer, I will need some help here I'm sure..

According to the owners Manuel it says:

#3 Accessories 3 A ( in the fuze panel )

So what is hooked up to this fuze right now? I'm thinking nothing right> Stock machine..
thanks in advance.

Joe

 

[Mo Lee]

Mine did not even have a fuse installed from the factory.

 

[xpeschon]

Barrier strip

Mo Lee I will have to check out to see if mine does, I wonder if its even hot then or do you know? I can draw my power from the # 3 then is what I'm thinking..

Now aka1004 heres an update: I still haven't recieved my system but thats alright I can go ahead and do the Barrier Strip.. Now I am a bit confussed on this--- I picked up materials today, I understand the relay and how to wire it, yes they are marked on the prongs and I know where they go perfect right? Well this Barrier strip I picked up today is a bit confussing, I do understand the consept and all, infact I have the same one you have, I guess thats a JUMPER from one to another, am I right there? Finally, as I look at your pics I am wondering where your (-) wires are, do you have them grounded to the frame?? I see your HOT wires but the grounds are confussing! Maybe its me I'm just a dumb A&^!! As I look at the BARRIER STRIPS is what they are called the metal piece inbetween where the wires hook up seem to be made so that they touch, now I know they can't do that so that is why I'm thinking you may have your grounds to the FRAME or something.. could you please explain this to me and we can go from there..
Thank you so much
Joe
PS: If I am correct in my thoughts, is there a reason you went for the small barrier strip and not the larger one they sell, thus eleminating the jumper wire??

 

[aka1004]

There are two termination bar in my pic right?
One is positive other is negative. I ran both cables from battery since I was already in there to run positive and it's not long a way.
You put bus bar on each termination bar and screw down cables you just ran from battery and now you have your distribution block(ofcourse you would install relay in place also so whole block is switched)
If you did not pick up bus bars, you do need pick up a couple. It's a piece of metal that slides on one side of termination bar. Without a bus bar , termination bar is just that, a termination bar one wire to other. If you picked your termination bar at radioshack, bus bar will be basically right next termination bar.

 

[aka1004]

i went to radioshack.com and they do not have the bus bar i used on it but i am assuming you got the "jumper" ? http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103227

if this is what you have, it will turn you termination bar into a distribution block.

that should take care of your "where is the negative wires" and why the two of the smaller bars right?

for the switch, if you use something that comes on when engine is running you will get like 15 sec delay when you cut the engine off. meaning your sound system will be on for 15 seconds after you turn ignition off. you may be ok with that but i did not like that so i switched the relay off of running lights. what ever i hooked up to my distribution block turns on when i turn the ignition on(engine not running) and it goes off immediately when i turn off the ignition. its your preference but if you do switch it with running lights do not let it sit there with your sound system blasting without engine running. even thou it does not draw much amperage, motorcycle battery is not strong.

 

[xpeschon]

This is what I have picked up so far

I picked up 2 different ones, they are called barrier strip, simular to the link you sent to me but these are the two iteams I am in hand right now:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103231

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103982

On bottom link when you click on it for some reason on the bottom of the picture its showing a second (looks like a cloudy piece) I have the black piece only.. The link you sent to me is simular but the wording is differant in the Radio shack link, these both are called Barrier Strips and not Jumpers.. UGG-----.... Your thoughts please?? I am going to google something and see if I cant find the write up I looked at yestruday and attach it to this message..

Joe
I will edit this message if I can find it, if not here is where I am with the project.. Thank you so much, I think I'm getting there, MAYBE.

PSS: Ok here is the link I am looking at where I recieved my info maybe I'm not thinking this thing through enough please check out this link for me:
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php
According to the article there is really no need for a Toggle switch to turn the system ON or OFF, I was just planning on doing the KEY method.. Or should I install a switch?

 

[bjt]

I picked up 2 different ones, they are called barrier strip, simular to the link you sent to me but these are the two iteams I am in hand right now:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103231

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103982

On bottom link when you click on it for some reason on the bottom of the picture its showing a second (looks like a cloudy piece) I have the black piece only..

Fancy photography, supposed to be showing a reflection.

The link you sent to me is simular but the wording is differant in the Radio shack link, these both are called Barrier Strips and not Jumpers.. UGG-----.... Your thoughts please?? I am going to google something and see if I cant find the write up I looked at yestruday and attach it to this message..

The jumper in his link would work in conjunction with one or both of the barrier strips that you posted links to. Each of those barrier strips shown look like they have no jumpers between sets of screws so the only connection is between two screws right across from each other. What you want is to bring battery power to two or more sets of those screws and the jumper strip is a very convenient way to do that. They state this in a couple of sections of the Canyonchasers article you referenced. Otherwise, you would be trying to make short jumpers out of wire and connecting the jumper wires between sets of screws.

PSS: Ok here is the link I am looking at where I recieved my info maybe I'm not thinking this thing through enough please check out this link for me:
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php
According to the article there is really no need for a Toggle switch to turn the system ON or OFF, I was just planning on doing the KEY method.. Or should I install a switch?

This Canyonchasers link has very nice instructions for doing this project. :thumbup: Instead of running a wire from the license plate light to the relay like in their instructions, you can tap into the switched accessory wires that BRP provides to hook up their 12 volt outlet. It might be more convenient to use those instead of the license plate light wires.

This part is pretty important and I didn't see where they clarified it your Canyonchasers article. The positive and negative wires from the battery feeding your barrier strip should be of a heavy enough gauge to safely handle all the current to every accessory you'll be connecting to the barrier strip. To match the 20 amp fuse they recommend using, those two pieces of wire should be 14 or 16 gauge. If you know for sure you'll never hook up more than 15 amps worth of accessories to your strip, you could downsize that feed wire to 18 AWG but you should also fuse the feed wire at 15 amps. For example, hooking up and running 20 amps worth of accessories (heated gear, stereo, amplifier, GPS, etc.) through the 18 AWG wire that they recommend as the minimum could be a bad thing. At the very least, it would be an inconvenience if that feed wire burnt up from excessive heat / current and you were left without accessory power. In the worst case, your Spyder could be damaged from the melted wire, burning insulation, electrical short, etc. I'm not trying to scare you off your project but I just want to be sure you get the job done safely. :thumbup:

 

[aka1004]

canyon chasers's article was pretty much right on.
i would use seperate termination bars for positive and negative thou for any future add-ons. the article used a single bar with bus bar cut to seperate the positive and negative.

i used 12 ga. wire for battery to powerblock and 16 ga. for powerblock to accessaries.

since you dont have the right parts, i will swing by radioshack later and take pics of what you need and post it later. and may be i can hand draw a diagram and upload that too.

 

[aka1004]

oh and no need for external switch. if i had one i know i will forget to turn it off and battery will be drained:banghead: more convenient to just switch it off of ignition. just choose between engine on only or ignition on.

 

[aka1004]

what i am holding with my finger is the "bus bar"
it was a 8 position bar i cut in half.

 

[xpeschon]

Bus Bar

Oh I think I get it now.. I turned the spyer in today for the 600 miles service, it was a VERY nice day here so it kind of HURT to get it there by 12:00 before the shop closed cause there was so much riding time left in the day, but its there.. I will pick it up on Tuesday after work, maybe Wednesday, oh well,, Hey PLEASE check this out.. I beleive the Sub that I bought for the system has a internal Amplifier, or thats what it says check out the specs on this thing and then BLOW up the picture of the SUB itself,, I have a hard time under standing the discription and the terms being said,, again don't dog me out to much I'm kind of new at this stereo system stuff BUT----If this is the case I do not need to hook up a seprate AMP to this, just power up the SUB and hook up the speakers I order with the AMP right?? On the picture I am not sure what the Line inputs do and the Hi outpu and Hi-low input---if you look at picture it displays these connections good but I do not understand them,, Did I get a better deal than I thought I did or am I mis-understood on the picture?
See Link and try to break it down for me please!!
Thanks to aka 1004 and bjt,, again, this is GREAT information and will come in handy once I get the spyder back and the system delivered,, I WILL pick your brain later on thats for sure but for now could you guys check out the link and again, speaker hook-up on the SUB(Where)? and the Line input???? and is there a AMP in the sub inself?
Thanks guys>
http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/SHKMOTSUBWOOFER/6_INCH_MARINE_GRADE_MOTORCYCLE_SUBWOOFER.html