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Are the Heat Recall Air Scoops still available?

Air scoops

I have a 2014 RTS and have installed the scoops. Have found that the glove box is much cooler, repeat much cooler. The air that used to come up between the glove box and seat is gone. Also the Spyder seems to be much less noisy. The metal bar used to replace the large plastic piece also lessens the weight.
 
So Doc is the Golf coast near the Tennis coast :hun: ......... :lecturef_smilie:........ I see your liking the use of capitals also :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ........................ Mike

Ahhhh..... he used proper capitalization. :lecturef_smilie::lecturef_smilie:
 
Air Scoops

The above is the same reason I put them on my 2014 RTS...VERY happy with cooler glove box and the looks...I also eliminated the acoustic panels under the painted panels...larryd

Hi Larry, I'm putting the air scoops on my 2014 RT finishing today. My question is sense you did remove the acoustic panels is there more engine noise now then before? Thanks, Neil
 
Pulled the trigger!

I bought the kit, didn't realize I had to drill holes :banghead:. The glovebox was getting super heated, I had to let my sunglasses cool off before I could put them on, and the cellphone was really hot. I figured the included insulation would cool the side panels (my legs) a bit also.

UNBOX
Wow what cheap plastic! black ABS for the main body, dark Lexan (?) for the front scoop. I saw in a years time a huge faded scoop, and super scratched up lexan nose piece. So, since it's already black, out came the PlastiDip! Put a lot of layers on, let dry overnite.


INSTALL
Kit came with no instructions, so found the heat kit instructions here, they cover the scoop at the end. The instructions give you a template to cut the vent hole open more to match the scoop. I was :yikes: scared to do so, but since the panels have holes in them now, I may go back and open them up if airflow isn't great. I think at 70mph there should be plenty of air being pushed across the engine and glovebox area.

The instructions say to use a spray paint can tube (like a WD40 tube) and some paint to mark the panel, once you have the scoop pressed against it tightly. I have a "dental tool" kit, I just located the best I could and put a poke in the paint. The fun part is after that, you have to go back and forth and guess where the actual drilled hole goes. I started with a 1/16" bit and guessed - all wrong. I used the dental tool to poke through the hole into the scoop to see how far off I was, then re-drilled. Once I got it, used the bigger drill bit. A couple times I had to file a smidge. I only installed 3 screws, one top, bottom and rear. I remembered after I was done (of course!) the trick of using lipstick on the holes, and pressing against the panels so I could actually see where the hole goes. Dunno if it would work, would have to be pro at pressing into place without smearing...

The kit comes with a shiny strong bar to replace the big plastic cover (the one you take off to get to the oil filter). That went on easy. I show a pic of the socket on the oil filter to show it's a snap to get at now.



FINI
Since I plastidipped all the "dull aluminum" parts already, the scoops look great. Might be my imagination, but the dash seems to vibrate a bit less with the metal bars. This is NOT a project for the faint of heart!! You can't undo it unless you know a bodywork person to fill the holes and paint the panels.

Note: the pic of the scoop shows the reflective pinstriping I put on. Just followed the contours all over the bike, and the edge of the windshield. I also plastidipped the bottom of the windshield and the covers. Comes off easy if it gets torn to re-paint (haven't had to yet - it is holding up VERY well).
 

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So have you road tested it yet? I am wondering how it works without cutting away the body panels, which sounds like how you installed it.

THanks
 
Question??

So the scoops bring in more O/S air------ Where does this air escape to????

Thanks in advance---------Kaos
 
Most people 2013 and before that added the scoops had already taken off the two lower panels -one were you change the oil and on the other side - So the air flows around the engine and out the bottom or back. I never get over 4 bars on my 2012 RT even in 85-90 degree heat when I'm Moving and in the winter I have been down to 1 bar at times- Now that's cool?:yikes:
 
So Far So Good

So have you road tested it yet? I am wondering how it works without cutting away the body panels, which sounds like how you installed it.

THanks

Glove box seems far cooler so far. Still at 4 bars on temperature, but it is 90 degrees now. Side panels on legs are definitely cooler with the added insulation. Looks like the air flows along the back of engine and under seat out the back. So far do not think I have to open up the hole.

Steve
 
Glove box seems far cooler so far. Still at 4 bars on temperature, but it is 90 degrees now. Side panels on legs are definitely cooler with the added insulation. Looks like the air flows along the back of engine and under seat out the back. So far do not think I have to open up the hole.

Steve

That's good to know. I installed mine the same way this weekend, haven't had a chance to test drive. Cutting those holes seemed too daunting for me! I was hoping they would still function, and not start whistling or something. :yikes:
 
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Scoop

Looking into buying the Air Scoop kit for my 2014 RTL, I looked up the number here and the forums say BRP# 219800388 is what I need. Anyone know if these kits are still around and where I can order it from?


Thank You!!

The gas do not boiled anymore ;)
 
Wow! Installed the scoops without cutting the body panels. Amazing difference! The hot air that used to bake my crotch once the engine warmed up is now cool. The engine even runs cooler. Great cheap upgrade!!
 
SCOOPS

Got mine installed thanks to a fellow Spiderlovers instructions. Looks great and functional too. You cant beat that with a stick...
 

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The instructions say to use a spray paint can tube (like a WD40 tube) and some paint to mark the panel, once you have the scoop pressed against it tightly. I have a "dental tool" kit, I just located the best I could and put a poke in the paint. The fun part is after that, you have to go back and forth and guess where the actual drilled hole goes. I started with a 1/16" bit and guessed - all wrong. I used the dental tool to poke through the hole into the scoop to see how far off I was, then re-drilled. Once I got it, used the bigger drill bit. A couple times I had to file a smidge. I only installed 3 screws, one top, bottom and rear. I remembered after I was done (of course!) the trick of using lipstick on the holes, and pressing against the panels so I could actually see where the hole goes. Dunno if it would work, would have to be pro at pressing into place without smearing...

I just started in on this project and now I understand what this piece of advice is all about. Turns out there are 5 holes need to be drilled into the RT side panel (yes, the big one with the black vent on top near the mirrors!) to attach the new scoop to the RT. 3 of these are easy to get at and can be marked readily enough; the other two are 'blind' (i.e. the places where the holes need to be drilled are inaccessible and so the location needs to be 'marked' somehow so you know where to drill those holes after taking the scoop back off).

I went about that a bit differently; after the scoop was temporarily in place (using the lower screw from the removed air deflector), I placed some painter's tape along the edge of the scoop in the two places where the holes had to go. Then, I used a pencil to mark each hole location along the edge of the tape. After removing the scoop, I measured in 3/16" from the edge of the tape at the pencil mark location and drilled my pilot holes (3/32"). Sorry about the quality of the photo - I'll try to post a better one later.

20170828_200712.jpg
 

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You're right Mike. The BRP adjustable vents are a better option for the 14 as you can either direct air on you or away from you.

I'm with Mike and Ann on this one. Have the adjustable vents that allow you to direct air back on you as you ride. Keeps me cool when towing a trailer 2 up at 90 plus, and the temp never gets over half way at 107 in utah.
At 107 no matter what you do you will be hot.
Idling along towing the trailer in Zion national park at 107 the fan kicked in a few times, but the temp gauge never got over half way.
I would miss the air blowing on me, but to each his own.
 
when you remove the side tupperwares you will see them. sort of a rectanglish black smc/plastic/fiberglass panel with some holes in it. remove them, throw them away and install the steel brackets. they are sorta below the mirrors and run aft.
 
Can you describe what these acoustic panels look like, where located, etc? I'm in the middle of this air scoop install but don't have the written instructions that I guess the dealer gets but didn't come with the kit. Thanks.

PM me your email address and I'll forward the instructions and pictures.
 
You're right Mike. The BRP adjustable vents are a better option for the 14 as you can either direct air on you or away from you.

+1 I too, use the adjustable deflectors to keep cool. Living in MN, when the weather starts to turn cold, the heat from the front of the seat is not so objectionable.

Gunner
 
I did the air scoop mod on my magnesium RTL, including sawing away the excess RT panel under the scoop. I also removed the acoustic panels and replaced them with the steel bars that come in the kit. Today I went for a 30 mile fast run up the nearby canyon in 87 degree temps. The glovebox is noticeably cooler; it didn't get hot or even warm. I can only assume that with the much improved airflow over the engine, the engine compartment itself is cooler also. Removing the acoustic panels gives me ready access to the oil filter.

For the cost of the kit, which is very well engineered and a relative bargain, and the easy install (once I got over my fear of cutting into the panels) I think this is a very useful mod and I've ordered another to install on the Cognac RTL.

I also like the way it looks on the bike. I think it provides incrementally better heat control over the cockpit area; not a silver bullet solution but a welcome improvement.
 
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