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Are Sprocket and belt issues after just 15,000 miles likely?

Big Mac

New member
My wife’s 2021 RT Sea-to-Sky has done about 15,000 miles in 3 years. A few weeks ago, we started to notice that the belt was squeaking on the rear sprocket – particularly evident when pushing the bike forward or backward without the engine on.

As it happens, it was due its annual service this week so we had it at the dealer yesterday and mentioned it to the mechanic. He agreed that the belt was certainly rubbing on the sprocket and in fact he declared that both needed changing quite urgently!

He said he had tried moving the belt away from the sprocket by the usual credit-card thickness, but it quickly worked its way back. He didn’t seem to know why this was happening but he felt this had caused both the belt and sprocket to become damaged enough that both need replacing – at a cost of close to $1,000!

Does any of this seem reasonable?

I’ve had a close look at the belt and it looks perfect to me (see photos) – though maybe the teeth are a little rounded, as you would surely expect after 15,000 miles. The sprocket does show very clear shiny marks equivalent to the shape of the belt teeth. I couldn’t really tell whether these shiny marks are where material has been rubbed away significantly though.

I should note that the workshop manager did admit that their senior Spyder mechanic was off sick and it was a junior mechanic that had worked on our bike.

In case it matters, the mechanic also noted that the original belt tensioner was no longer functioning because its spring had broken (and sadly he believes that the spring is not available separately). He left it with the belt tensioner roller simply resting on the belt….feeling it wouldn’t matter?

IMG_4155.jpg IMG_4154.jpg
 
Belt looks fine to me. Sounds like the mechanic doesn’t know how to adjust and if you replace the belt will it be the exact same. Is the bike still in warranty?
If so might be covered by brp
 
NO, none of that seems reasonable to me! :yikes:

If you could compare that belt to a brand-new belt, I'd be surprised if you could visibly detect any abnormal wear/much difference between them - personally, I'd suggest that those teeth aren't rounded ! Neither the belt nor the sprocket looks worn or damaged, a bit of 'polish marking' on the sprocket is normal, even if yours might look a little more than expected so soon, it's certainly not looking like enough to me to warrant replacement; I've seen a LOT WORSE than that on belts & sprockets that've gone on for another 50,000 miles without further issues! nojoke I'll see if I can get you a pic of one of those for comparison. ;)

IMHO, if that tech isn't capable of aligning the belt so that it doesn't rub/squeak (or diagnose any reason for such inability beyond his own incompetence? :dontknow: ) then I'd seriously be looking for an alternative tech, cos you'd hafta ask what else he cannot do - or is he really just incompetent?! :yikes:

The Forum has a fair bit of discussion, info with links to vids, & even step-by-step guides on belt alignment & tension setting already posted, and it's much harder to write about & explain than it is to do, so I won't replicate it here - all you need to do is some searching and reading. Adjusting the belt alignment is pretty simply, albeit fiddly, but it's not something that's really beyond anyone who can turn an Allen key, IF they can get down there & back up again; so even tho it can be fiddly and take a few goes to get it close enough to right (cos there's NO EXACTLY RIGHT for where your belt runs, just 'within the acceptable range', and even then, it'll move around a lot when you ride, even more when you reverse! :lecturef_smilie: ) so there's a good chance you could fix the belt alignment yourself - and I'd say you can happily ignore the sprocket witness marks, at least for saaayyyy, the next half a million miles! :thumbup:

As for the belt vibration damper (cos it's NOT a 'tensioner'!! :rolleyes: ) it'd be best to remove it entirely - the OEM roller bearings have been known to wear out around 15-20,000 miles, so you're probably lucky that the spring on yours failed first, cos if it hadn't and the bearing wore out, that could destroy the belt - and even without the spring, there's still that possibility. So if you haven't noticed any belt induced vibrations, just toss the belt damper entirely and simply avoid that risk entirely! :thumbup:

Edit: Added pics - not the best & I couldn't get the wear on the off-side, but the belt & sprocket shown have done pretty close to 10 times the milage you've got up, very little of it 'gently', either! And despite some wear being evident, and a lot more shiny bits on the sprocket, I'd say that belt's still going strong, cos those I've seen that've been 'bike stoppers' looked MUCH worse than that! And I've seen sprockets with far more 'wear' returned to owners after major services &/or work by dealers that looked a lot worse too! :shocked: So Big, I reckon your belt and sprocket are fine, if not great! :ohyea:
 

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Thank you so much for the comforting words! I did manage a belt alignment on our previous RT, though I may just take it to a different dealer for a second 'expert' opinion!
 
Thank you so much for the comforting words! I did manage a belt alignment on our previous RT, though I may just take it to a different dealer for a second 'expert' opinion!

Your dealer's story doesn't make any sense. How did they attempt to move the belt away from the pulley flange? The only way to accomplish this is by adjusting the tensioner bolts at the back of the swingarm. Are they saying that this isn't working? Not possible! I find it even more incredible that they might not know how to adjust the belt. Could it be that they are just trying to sell you parts & labor that you don't need? I don't know. But there is definitely something up with this story.

I would say your belt and pulleys are fine. Can you send a picture of where your belt is riding on the rear pulley?
 
Can you take a picture shooting down the length of the belt to the front pulley? I assume you've had no pulley work done or a rear tire replaced?

The flange is beveled so even though it appears to have some separation in the pictures. I'm sure it is trying to climb the flange and you need to adjust your belt alignment so that you can get a credit card to fit easily all the way to the pulley teeth. You can do this yourself or have it done. But from your dealerships response, I'd look elsewhere.
 
Can you take a picture shooting down the length of the belt to the front pulley?

How would I get enough depth of field to show all that way from the rear sprocket?

I assume you've had no pulley work done or a rear tire replaced?

The rear tyre was replaced not long ago by a local tyre dealer using a method which does not, I believe, alter the belt tension or alignment.

The flange is beveled so even though it appears to have some separation in the pictures. I'm sure it is trying to climb the flange and you need to adjust your belt alignment so that you can get a credit card to fit easily all the way to the pulley teeth.

I too thought it looked like the belt was not quite touching the flange, but a credit card soon proved me wrong!
 
If you move back and up a little, it should give a good enough picture to see how the belt is riding on the front pulley. But not critical as it's probably fine.

Yes, the rear tire can be removed in such a way as to not disturb belt alignment. But it is interesting that the belt was fine before the tire change and now is not.
 
How did they attempt to move the belt away from the pulley flange? The only way to accomplish this is by adjusting the tensioner bolts at the back of the swingarm. Are they saying that this isn't working? Not possible!?

I do see reports from people (see comments in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWGiCt7aW6s) that they aligned the belt correctly but then, after torquing the axle nut to the correct value, the belt ended up back against the flange. Maybe that's what the mechanic found?
 
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I do see reports from people (see comments in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWGiCt7aW6s) that they aligned the belt correctly but then, after torquing the axle nut to the correct value, the belt ended up back against the flange. Maybe that's what the mechanic found?

We tighten the axle nut as much as we can while still allowing the tensioner bolts to move the wheel. We always adjust by tightening the tensioners. If we go too far, we loosen the axle nut, back the wheel off a bit and start over. This way the axle components are well seated, the tensioner bolts are stabilizing the wheel, and the belt alignment stays put when we apply final torque on the axle nut.
 
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And of course, in the end take it for a ride in a straight line, then pull over and get off to check your alignment on the belt to pulley. That belt is constantly moving from side to side, but you never want it to ride up on the flange of the pulley. It will squeal if it rides up too hard. And if you back the bike up, it will ride to the outside of the pulley hard and you will think something's wrong, but when you go forward again, it comes back to where it should be. I look down at mine quite a lot - every time I get off the bike and do a walk around, that way I know things are right! Last thing you want to do is wreck a belt or wear a pulley! Good luck!
 
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Understood, Mikey. I too have generally kept an eye on the gap between belt and flange - and it was always there until recently!
 
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