Anything to be concerned with the 2010 RTs

[Dragonrider]

My RT S came with the stupid "shorty windshield" and I had to change it to the taller one - I get a bigger one, if it were available, but then my bride and I are NOT vertically challenged…. The shock change is worth the time and money, especially if you ride two up a lot.

If there's any original warrantee left, you should be able to buy a BEST for another two years.

 

[StanProff]

OK, I have to know why you would change the windshield????

I installed 2011 shocks on my 2010 RTS out of "want more than need" but it did help it corner a little flatter. I am not a sport rider anymore, The '11 shocks do help on the interstates resulting in less movement from wind or passing trucks. I cut my stock windshield down 3 inches to see over it instead of looking through it in the lowest position. I am 5'7" and the '10 shield was too tall for me. (the '11 and '12 shields are smaller). I figured the worst that could happen, if I messed it up, was to go buy a '11 sheild for $200.00 or so. The sheild came out really good and looks factory. Anyway i am happy with the Spyder as it is now and see no advantage to a newer one as of yet. Maybe in a couple of more years if something major in the engine department changes i might consider an upgrade.

Stan (Poppy)

 

[NancysToy]

OK, I have to know why you would change the windshield????

The 2011/2012 windshield is shorter and narrower, and the wind deflectors are angled back more. Some folks (including myself) prefer this.

 

[StanProff]

The 2011/2012 windshield is shorter and narrower, and the wind deflectors are angled back more. Some folks (including myself) prefer this.

I remove the lower deflectors in the summer months and it helps provide a cooler ride, anyone else do this? I always put them in the Frunk in case of cold spell and i can stick them back on.

 

[ThreeWheels]

The 2010 had some minor issues that they corrected in 2011. One of the correction caused another issue that is just now getting fixed. About the only thing I would do if I bought a 2010 is change out the shocks and windshield, other than that it should give you years of good times till you're ready for something else. :doorag:

One other thing, I'd change out the Spark Plug wires and Spark Plugs to the BajaRon or equivalent.

My 2010 wires were damaged after about 18 K miles.

Other than that, as usual, Lamont is absolutely correct.

 

[bikeguy]

Good advice from Scotty, StanProff, Lamont and others. My understanding is that the throttle body problems on the 2011's were caused by a software problem. I'm not sure about the 2010's. I know that the butterflies on the throttle body that came off my 2010 felt stiffer (harder to move by hand) than those on the replacement. I don't know if there is any way to predict whether a given 2010 will have problems or not.

The shorter windshield on the 2011 is probably better but the only time I have any problem with mine is in the rain. Like StanProff, I have to look through the windshield even with it all the way down so if the light is just right and there's rain on the shield, sometimes it can be a slight problem but not serious enough to spend much money to correct.

Assuming that you can buy a 2010 for considerably less money than a 2011 0r 2012, I wouldn't hesitate to do so. I expect to be riding my 2010 for quite some time.

Cotton

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

Shocks and windshield...
I wouldn't change out the shocks until I tried bumping the preload up from the stock (#3) position... It was definitely soft as delivered, but I moved mine to position #4 and have been pretty darn happy with it... But I'm also CHEAP! pps:
The smaller windshield will (might?) offer a bit better fuel economy; but they're expensive enough that you can buy a lot of fuel for the cost of one.
Oh! I think that they also rewired the front trunk electronics so that you can open it with the button without starting the Bike up

How exactly do you bump the shock to position 4? I was looking at the shocks and it looks like it takes a special tool. Does the RT come with the tool? There also seems to be a possible 5th position. is that right?

thanks.

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

Good advice from Scotty, StanProff, Lamont and others. My understanding is that the throttle body problems on the 2011's were caused by a software problem. I'm not sure about the 2010's. I know that the butterflies on the throttle body that came off my 2010 felt stiffer (harder to move by hand) than those on the replacement. I don't know if there is any way to predict whether a given 2010 will have problems or not.

The shorter windshield on the 2011 is probably better but the only time I have any problem with mine is in the rain. Like StanProff, I have to look through the windshield even with it all the way down so if the light is just right and there's rain on the shield, sometimes it can be a slight problem but not serious enough to spend much money to correct.

Assuming that you can buy a 2010 for considerably less money than a 2011 0r 2012, I wouldn't hesitate to do so. I expect to be riding my 2010 for quite some time.

Cotton

Thanks to all the helpful people here, I'm looking at a 2010 now. :2thumbs:

 

[NancysToy]

How exactly do you bump the shock to position 4? I was looking at the shocks and it looks like it takes a special tool. Does the RT come with the tool? There also seems to be a possible 5th position. is that right?

thanks.

The tool is in your toolkit, under the seat. I suggest jacking up the Spyder to relieve the load on the front suspension, and spraying the spring adjusters with WD-40 to make things easier.

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

The tool is in your toolkit, under the seat. I suggest jacking up the Spyder to relieve the load on the front suspension, and spraying the spring adjusters with WD-40 to make things easier.

Thank. I'll have to do that, if things go as planned and I'm a new Spyder owner.ray: