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Anyone have ideas on fitting Mechanical Parking brake? 2011 RT

Eckhard

Member
Anyone have any ideas on fitting a mechanical parking brake to a 2011 RT? I see no need for an overly complicated electric solution that leaves me in a lurch.
 
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I agree with you on that and after repairing my ruined cable & pulley have been brainstorming to do the same thing. The problem lies in the microswitch that the lobe on the pulley activates to tell the nanny the brake status. I think finding a way to set the brake manually would be fairly simple but getting the proper tension, so the nanny thinks the brake is set is a whole 'nuther problem. I watched my cycle through several times before putting all the covers back in place a few weeks ago. At first, I was expecting to see the pulley rotate 180° so the top lobe when the brake is loose would rotate around and re-engage the microswitch. That was not the case, however; it only rotated about 60° and stopped. Apparently, the nanny senses the resistance somehow and knows the brake is set without the switch being reactivated by the lobe where the cable hooks in.
 
If you're good at fab work, you could use ''copy'' Harleys Tri Glide parking brake. It's all mechanical, you would just have to adapt it to the right side of the Spyder, relocate the little micro switch, use the existing brake, and find a cable short enough that would work. But it can be done... Not cheap, yeah, but it could be done!
 
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KISS - use a chock, there's nothing simpler or less expense, or as fool-proof ..... JMHO .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
The following scenario.

Elderly person with strength problems.

Riding solo.

Need to park on a slope.

How to get the chock out of the trunk and behind the rear wheel all while keeping the foot on the pedal? Even with chock in pocket, still hard to get it behind rear wheel with foot on pedal.


POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS

Stay home. Not really an option

Use trailer hitch or similar frame to hold swing down chock mechanism that is deployed with a pull cord coming out under the seat or between the panels. good only when parking up hill.
 
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The following scenario.

Elderly person with strength problems.

Riding solo.

Need to park on a slope.

How to get the chock out of the trunk and behind the rear wheel all while keeping the foot on the pedal? Even with chock in pocket, still hard to get it behind rear wheel with foot on pedal.


POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS

Stay home. Not really an option

Use trailer hitch or similar frame to hold swing down chock mechanism that is deployed with a pull cord coming out under the seat or between the panels. good only when parking up hill.

At one time in my life I had to park on a slope. Because the rear was facing downhill I turned the steering to the left, so when the car went downhill, the rt. front wheel was up against the curb. If none of the above is possible for that ederly person they need to park somewhere else. .... Enjoying life sometimes Requires ADAPTABILITY .... I'm still Downhill skiing at 75 soon to be 76 ..... Good Luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
The following scenario.

Elderly person with strength problems.

Riding solo.

Need to park on a slope.

How to get the chock out of the trunk and behind the rear wheel all while keeping the foot on the pedal? Even with chock in pocket, still hard to get it behind rear wheel with foot on pedal.


POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS

Stay home. Not really an option

Use trailer hitch or similar frame to hold swing down chock that is deployed with a pull cord coming out under the seat or between the panels. good only when parking up hill.

Since Spyders stay in gear until you restart them (at least that's what mine does) no need to worry about the brake or a chock. Unless you feel the need to find neutral manually upon parking, but why would you? Even if the elderly person's Spyder does not do that, they could keep the chock strapped to the back seat and keep a foot on the brake while they get off, then put the chock behind the right front tire; parked uphill of course. :D
 
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Since Spyders stay in gear until you restart them (at least that's what mine does) no need to worry about the brake or a chock. Unless you feel the need to find neutral manually upon parking, but why would you? Even if the elderly person's Spyder does not do that, they could keep the chock strapped to the back seat and keep a foot on the brake while they get off, then put the chock behind the right front tire; parked uphill of course. :D

Next time you are out give it a try. Since the clutch is not engaged it will free roll.
 
Next time you are out give it a try. Since the clutch is not engaged it will free roll.

Granted, I have not tried to roll the Spyder without the brake set and before start up. I will definitely give it a try tomorrow by killing it without setting the brake or going to neutral manually and listen to the annoying warning beep for a bit to see what happens. Until now, I have only observed the gear indicator switches from either 1st or Rev. just as I turn the key on. :thumbup:
 
OK. I just tested the point of whether or not a 2014 RT-L stays in gear after shut down or at what point it goes into neutral. I turned the key on and waited about 15 seconds. Nothing happened so I tried to roll it; still in gear. I did not see the neutral light come on until about a second after I pushed the mode button. So, while being in gear might not hold it in place on a steep hill, it will certainly serve the purpose of giving time to set a wheel chock in place unless you have poorly chosen a very steep slope to park on.
 
Since Spyders stay in gear until you restart them (at least that's what mine does) no need to worry about the brake or a chock. Unless you feel the need to find neutral manually upon parking, but why would you? Even if the elderly person's Spyder does not do that, they could keep the chock strapped to the back seat and keep a foot on the brake while they get off, then put the chock behind the right front tire; parked uphill of course. :D

This is not true for semi auto Spyders. At idle or bike off, the clutch is disengaged so it does not matter what gear its in, it free rolls.
 
This is not true for semi auto Spyders. At idle or bike off, the clutch is disengaged so it does not matter what gear its in, it free rolls.

Mine does not free roll until you hit the mode button followed by the starter button. Then and ONLY then does it shift itself into neutral. Otherwise, it stays in gear and resistance from the transmission can be detected when trying to roll it. Yes, I have tested it after leaving it in both 1st gear and reverse.

As for the wheel chock discussion, that arose as a more or less tongue in cheek comment by BLUEKNIGHT911. ;)
 
Mine does not free roll until you hit the mode button followed by the starter button. Then and ONLY then does it shift itself into neutral. Otherwise, it stays in gear and resistance from the transmission can be detected when trying to roll it. Yes, I have tested it after leaving it in both 1st gear and reverse.

As for the wheel chock discussion, that arose as a more or less tongue in cheek comment by BLUEKNIGHT911. ;)

:agree: it was sort of " tongue in cheek ", but not by much. .... You have many folks here who Can't change Oil , tires, lights etc. .... Trying to come up with a MANUAL parking brake system, instead of the Electric one ..... well to me that's Far beyond the oil, tires, lights thing ..... JMHO ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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