carbonation
New member
Can't imagine any Spyder owner running straight SAE 50w m/c oil in their Spyder
Can you imagine straight 40?
Although not labeled as such, several straight 40's would test out at 20w40 with no VI's.
And it doesn't shear.
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Anyone have experience with Ultra1 Plus 15W50 oil for their 1330? Opinions?
- Thread starter Cobranut
- Start date
Can you imagine straight 40?
Although not labeled as such, several straight 40's would test out at 20w40 with no VI's.
And it doesn't shear.
BajaRon
Well-known member
No disagreement here. You simply bring up a point which I did not cover in my narrowly focused post.
The bottom line is that a 15/50 (or 20/50 as some are running). As well as a 5/20 (which is essentially what you have beyond 5,000 miles with the recommended XPS lubricant) will work. After all, we don't hear of 1330's seizing up, blowing up, or wearing out.
My feeling with this thread is that we are looking for what works better than just OK.
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Can't imagine any Spyder owner running straight SAE 50w m/c oil in their Spyder
There was a time that I would've said & believed the same wholeheartedly, but in the many years & decades since, pretty much every time I've thought that "No-one in their right mind would ever do that!" I've had my imagination significantly expanded; frequently also utterly gob-smacked; and even more often, completely appalled! :yikes: I'm now a firm believer that if I'm sure that no-one would be silly enough to try something, the only thing that shows is a complete lack of understanding of the depths of stupidity and silliness that some are capable of on my behalf!
pps:
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racoon
Well-known member
But it does make life entertaining. :joke:
And occasionally HORRIFYING!! :yikes:
BajaRon
Well-known member
I'm now a firm believer that if I'm sure that no-one would be silly enough to try something, the only thing that shows is a complete lack of understanding of the depths of stupidity and silliness that some are capable of on my behalf!
Have to agree with you there, Peter. I don't think anyone has seen it all. But I've seen 2 stroke oil in brake systems, Anti-Freeze in engine oil (on purpose), Diesel in gas and vise-versa, standard car oil (non-wet clutch) in a Spyder, and Windshield Washer Fluid in the radiator (which is not nearly as bad as these others).
Always remember. If it can be done, it will be done. And if it can't, someone will try anyway.
Cobranut
Active member
Ain't that the truth.
A while back while I was out of town, my wife's car sprung a small coolant leak.
She called me and I told her where I had coolant, and where to add it.
When I got home, she showed me where she added the coolant. Yep, she put it in the power steering reservoir. :banghead:
She now knows how to flush a power steering system. :thumbup:
Whatever happened to adding a whisked egg & a 1/2 a handful of finely ground black pepper to your radiator to stop a coolant leak?! I dunno, things just seemed to be simpler back then... :dontknow:
Mind you, cars & trucks were so slow, and there wasn't a Supermarket or SuperMall on every third corner block, so taking provisions for a week just to go do the grocery shopping was a lot more commonplace, and I guess more people had an egg & lotsa pepper on hand?!
But I am pretty sure that I really don't wanta know what adding a whisked egg & a 1/2 a handful of finely ground black pepper to your power steering pump would do! :yikes:
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TerryTheSpyderRyder
New member
I'm for a good oil for my new-to-me F3-S SM6.
Has anyone used this oil? The specs look good, and it's a good price in the 12 liter case.
https://www.amazon.com/Ultra1Plus-1...7DP1/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
Opinions and experience is welcome.
Thanks,
David
My advice? If you have an SE6, stick with the proper weight. You've got an HCM that's designed for that particular viscosity, and you may encounter shifting or slipping issues if you change grades.
TerryTheSpyderRyder
New member
Try DEF in diesel fuel. That happens more than you think, by accident someone momentarily HUA will put the fluid in the diesel tank.
Cobranut
Active member
OMG. I hadn't though of that one. :roflblack:
racoon
Well-known member
My first vehicle was a 1967 VW Westfalia Camper Van with the normal VW "pancake" opposed four air cooled engine.
When I replaced the original 1500 cc engine with a slightly larger 1641 cc engine with a mild cam, balanced crankshaft, oversize oil pump, ported heads, and dual carbs I asked the engine builder what oil I should be using.
And then I followed his recommendation.
I think I'll stick with what CAN-AM recommends for my Spyder's Rotax 1330 ACE engine, since they know a whole lot more about what's best for it than I do.
JM2C
When I replaced the original 1500 cc engine with a slightly larger 1641 cc engine with a mild cam, balanced crankshaft, oversize oil pump, ported heads, and dual carbs I asked the engine builder what oil I should be using.
And then I followed his recommendation.
I think I'll stick with what CAN-AM recommends for my Spyder's Rotax 1330 ACE engine, since they know a whole lot more about what's best for it than I do.
JM2C
Cobranut
Active member
I changed oil to the 15w50 Ultra1Plus synthetic.
I got a noticeable boost in oil pressure across the board.
It now goes a bit above 50psi at startup, and once warmed up it drops to about 15psi at idle. Of course, ambient temps have been in the low to mid 70's, so I expect it to be somewhat lower in summer.
Cruise pressure runs about 55 psi at 3-4k rpm, and levels off at 58-60 psi between 6-8000 rpm, which is the relief valve spec.
The only noticeable difference in driving is shifting is a bit smoother and quieter, with a more cushioned clunk going into gear from neutral.
Clutch action is unaffected, though my driving style is pretty easy on the clutch.
I'll see how this does during hot weather next summer, and decide whether I'll stick with the 15w50 or drop to 10w40 in the same brand.
I got a noticeable boost in oil pressure across the board.
It now goes a bit above 50psi at startup, and once warmed up it drops to about 15psi at idle. Of course, ambient temps have been in the low to mid 70's, so I expect it to be somewhat lower in summer.
Cruise pressure runs about 55 psi at 3-4k rpm, and levels off at 58-60 psi between 6-8000 rpm, which is the relief valve spec.
The only noticeable difference in driving is shifting is a bit smoother and quieter, with a more cushioned clunk going into gear from neutral.
Clutch action is unaffected, though my driving style is pretty easy on the clutch.
I'll see how this does during hot weather next summer, and decide whether I'll stick with the 15w50 or drop to 10w40 in the same brand.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Thanks for letting us know your decision. We will be looking forward to your evaluation long term on your choice.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Yes, heard of that one. Not good! Gasoline will also trash a diesel engine in a hurry. Diesel in gas isn't quite as bad, depending on volume. But can also get quite expensive.
carbonation
New member
Agree, especially in new common rail/high pressure systems. Back in the day, you could 50/50 regular unleaded and 30 weight non detergent and get diesels down the road. Diesel in gasoline is a drain, refill correctly and keep cranking til it fires most of the time.
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