Anyone ever used Ultra1Plus oil? What do you think?

[SPYDERJERRY1]

Has anyone ever used Ultra1Plus oil ? I have a 2020 Spyder RT Limited. This oil has the correct specifications for our machines....5W40 Full Synthetic 4T API SN JASO MA2. What do you think?

 

[Navydad]

I think if it meets the specifications then go for it. You are going to get all kinds of answers from all kinds of owners which is fine, but my choices are always "does it meet the specs" for my equipment.

 

[SPYDERJERRY1]

I think if it meets the specifications then go for it. You are going to get all kinds of answers from all kinds of owners which is fine, but my choices are always "does it meet the specs" for my equipment.

Navydad, thank you.

 

[pegasus1300]

I am guessing this oil is about $15.00/qt. I know nothing about this oil but the specs you published seem to match what we need so if it matches your price point go for it. Have you used it before? What on? Can you get it if you are out on the road or do you have to carry some with you? Personally I am in the under $10..00/qt group so I stick with Shell Rotella T6, Valvolene T4, Castrol T4. Not saying they are better then your oil,they just fit my price point and I can find them almost anywhere. But I also change oil every 4500 miles , so I also don't worry about myoil breaking down over a long intervale. I change oil twice and sometimes 3 times a year. Lots of happy miles with your new ride.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I am guessing this oil is about $15.00/qt. I know nothing about this oil but the specs you published seem to match what we need so if it matches your price point go for it. Have you used it before? What on? Can you get it if you are out on the road or do you have to carry some with you? Personally I am in the under $10..00/qt group so I stick with Shell Rotella T6, Valvolene T4, Castrol T4. Not saying they are better then your oil,they just fit my price point and I can find them almost anywhere. But I also change oil every 4500 miles , so I also don't worry about myoil breaking down over a long intervale. I change oil twice and sometimes 3 times a year. Lots of happy miles with your new ride.

:agree: , also with Navydad ..... I read somewhere there are only 7 or so OIL refineries in USA. .... however there are probably 50 Brands of oil .... some charge more , some charge waaaaaaaay more for the same Oil ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[2dogs]

:agree: , also with Navydad ..... I read somewhere there are only 7 or so OIL refineries in USA. .... however there are probably 50 Brands of oil .... some charge more , some charge waaaaaaaay more for the same Oil ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

Wow, another oil thread. We'll all be dead and gone and they'll still be discussing oil even though most transportation will likely be EV's. My (limited) study on oil boils down to confirming BK's comment and that oil is sold by the train carload over the table to the highest bidder. That's the fact of it. Then it's shipped off and rebranded by the purchaser who adds to it, or not, and advertizes their oil to be the best on the market. It's a giant shell game. What I appreciate is that my 1330 does not use oil. And, I can run the same oil for 10k miles and it still meets usable specs. How great is that? 5 qts for 10k! Do the math and by all means, use the recommended oil specs for our machines and enjoy the ride with whatever brand of oil you use.

 

[Navydad]

Wow, another oil thread. We'll all be dead and gone and they'll still be discussing oil even though most transportation will likely be EV's. My (limited) study on oil boils down to confirming BK's comment and that oil is sold by the train carload over the table to the highest bidder. That's the fact of it. Then it's shipped off and rebranded by the purchaser who adds to it, or not, and advertizes their oil to be the best on the market. It's a giant shell game. What I appreciate is that my 1330 does not use oil. And, I can run the same oil for 10k miles and it still meets usable specs. How great is that? 5 qts for 10k! Do the math and by all means, use the recommended oil specs for our machines and enjoy the ride with whatever brand of oil you use.

:agree: Now, what about those tires?

 

[2dogs]

:agree: Now, what about those tires?

:gaah: :banghead: :cus: :gaah: :cus: :banghead:

 

[EdMat]

:agree: , also with Navydad ..... I read somewhere there are only 7 or so OIL refineries in USA. .... however there are probably 50 Brands of oil .... some charge more , some charge waaaaaaaay more for the same Oil ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

A few more than that, but it's what happens to that base stock at the blender and what additive packages are put in. One of the many things that Afton (name has changed now) made was over 1,000 various fuel and oil additives that we hauled by the tank car load. The various additives went from a few dollars per gallon (actually they bill by the pound) up to if I could have hijacked about 3 loads and sold it I could have retired and lived the life of luxury.

I don't use Amsoil but I can tell you their standards for incoming material was very very high, no doubt a contributing factor to the price of the oil. Others not so much or non-existent, and its reflected in the price. A few can keep almost everything inhouse, some good some bad.

 

[Davgill2002]

Your Spyder requires an API SL rating. This rating is for engines made before 2004. The SN & SM API rating supersede the SL rating. See - API SN/SM/SL/CF. However, while the SN & SM rating exceed the SL ratings for wear, friction etc. The ratings apply to the engine. My concern is many of the SN & SM oils achieve better wear protection and are longer lasting, or provide better mileage due to additives that improve (lower) friction. Your Spyder uses the engine's oil to lubricate its wet clutch system. I noticed that for my last oil change I went with Amsoil full synthetic 05w40. When starting up cold and putting in gear the clutch would slightly slip then lurch when I applied the throttle. Within one or two minutes of operation this tendency would go away. I have N RTL S2S thus the semi-automatic. I can envision those with a manual could run into clutch slippage, and thus premature wear, if they frequently rev it up and dump the clutch, i.e. burn outs, while using Amsoil. I am a long time Amsoil fan but for my Spyder I will be trying other more modern oils than BRP's 2004 standard. Longer lasting, better wear protection and better mileage benefits of the newer oils is desired, if and only if, they do not have a potential adverse impact on the clutch.

 

[BajaRon]

Your Spyder requires an API SL rating. This rating is for engines made before 2004. The SN & SM API rating supersede the SL rating. See - API SN/SM/SL/CF. However, while the SN & SM rating exceed the SL ratings for wear, friction etc. The ratings apply to the engine. My concern is many of the SN & SM oils achieve better wear protection and are longer lasting, or provide better mileage due to additives that improve (lower) friction. Your Spyder uses the engine's oil to lubricate its wet clutch system. I noticed that for my last oil change I went with Amsoil full synthetic 05w40. When starting up cold and putting in gear the clutch would slightly slip then lurch when I applied the throttle. Within one or two minutes of operation this tendency would go away. I have N RTL S2S thus the semi-automatic. I can envision those with a manual could run into clutch slippage, and thus premature wear, if they frequently rev it up and dump the clutch, i.e. burn outs, while using Amsoil. I am a long time Amsoil fan but for my Spyder I will be trying other more modern oils than BRP's 2004 standard. Longer lasting, better wear protection and better mileage benefits of the newer oils is desired, if and only if, they do not have a potential adverse impact on the clutch.

I would give the 10/40 Amsoil a try. 0/40 starts out extremely thin. A great selection if you're cold starting in 30 degrees below zero on a regular basis. But not a good viscosity range for most environments our Spyders live in. Even 5/40 is thinner than ideal for most Spyders. 10/40 is good down to zero degree cold starts. More than enough for most of us.

We've been using the 10/40 version for years without issue. And it's about $2.00 a quart cheaper than the 0/40 you tried.

 

[carbonation]

Available at Amazon, 7.48 a quart.
Recent player in the market, joined the PQIA in 2021.
It may meet the specs, but they did NOT apply and be certified for JASO MA because it's not on the list.
(Rotella isn't either).
For 6.67 a quart, I'd move over to the 5 quart Kawasaki 10w40 package that is JASO certified.
https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-999...efix=kawasaki+motor+oil,automotive,850&sr=1-2
Here is the JASO list if interested.
https://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf

 

[BajaRon]

Available at Amazon, 7.48 a quart.
Recent player in the market, joined the PQIA in 2021.
It may meet the specs, but they did NOT apply and be certified for JASO MA because it's not on the list.
(Rotella isn't either).
For 6.67 a quart, I'd move over to the 5 quart Kawasaki 10w40 package that is JASO certified.
https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-999...efix=kawasaki+motor+oil,automotive,850&sr=1-2
Here is the JASO list if interested.
https://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf

The Kawasaki oil you link to is a synthetic blend. Similar to the XPS BRP 05/40. It is designed for lawn mower engines. The information I can find lists it as JASO MA rated. That's a long way from the JASO MA2 rating needed in our Spyders. Though the JASO rating list provided does show some MA2 rated 10/40 Kawasaki lubricants. I don't find a direct reference to this oil there.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Added content. (For the very few who are as anal about oil as I am)

OK, this one was bugging me so I spent some more time with the frustrating JASO list provided. With a little more effort, I did find this exact same Kawasaki lubricant. The product number M001KSE945 goes back to the correct Kawasaki part number 99969-6296. But they don't make it easy. Not sure why some oil companies make it so hard to verify specs. Probably doesn't matter because most are not that interested. 'Oil is oil' being the opinion of many.

Very interesting JASO list, by the way. It would be nice if it were sorted by product name instead of some obscure industry application number. I wonder why no Amsoil product is listed. Strange.

The JASO list shows it rated MA2. But the bottle clearly lists it as MA. A little confusing as to why the discrepancy. So, which one is correct? I also verified that it is specifically designed for lawn mower engines. But if the MA2 spec. is correct, it would probably work in a Spyder. Don't get me wrong, I'm not recommending it. But if you use it, let us know how it goes.



716 - KTech Synthetic Blend - SAE 10W-40 4-Cycle Engine Oil - Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A. - M001KSE945 - MA2 - 10W-40

 

[carbonation]

The Kawasaki oil you link to is a synthetic blend. Similar to the XPS BRP 05/40. It is designed for lawn mower engines. The information I can find lists it as JASO MA rated. That's a long way from the JASO MA2 rating needed in our Spyders. Though the JASO rating list provided does show some MA2 rated 10/40 Kawasaki lubricants. I don't find a direct reference to this oil there.

Here is the blurb on JASO MA.

JASO MA: This is the standard specification for oils that are used within one oil system (where the engine, gearbox and clutch use the same oil). These oils don’t contain any friction modifiers.
JASO MA1: This is a lower standard specification for motorcycles that require different oils for the engine, gearbox and clutch.
JASO MA2: This is a higher standard specification for modern motorcycles. These oils are suitable for use in motorcycles that have catalytic converters in the exhaust system.
JASO MB: This is a lower standard specification for scooter engines.

The oil listed is indeed a syn blend. BRP has decided that a syn blend is their factory fill, and for every change after using their blessed product. And, there are good reasons for having a conventional component in the mix, vs. a full synthetic. Those nuances will escape most folks who only think that if it's a synthetic it must be better, and if it's more expensive then it must be best. Not trying to argue, but a synthetic blend is fine, a JASO MA is fine, and there are too many documented cases of 100's of thousands of miles on "alternative" oils in shared sumps/ wet clutch to deny that they work. You use whatever you want. If it helps you sleep at night or be happy, no one will stop you.
AmSoil is not the only option though. Neither is BRP. Or Valvoline. Or Mobil. You need to look at the analysis of the oil, virgin first, to determine components in it, then run it, then a used oil analysis to determine if it did indeed do the job over your oil change interval.
The virgin analysis would shock and awe most of you to find that "car" Mobil1 and "MC" Mobil1 are virtually the same product in 10w40 flavor.
You would be surprised, as well, to find MC oils with substantial amounts of Moly.
Point is, manage by fact, not just a repeat or accept what's out there blindly.
Makes no difference to anyone, but conventional Havoline 20w50 is one of the best sleeper MC oils period. A bit thick perhaps for the 1330, except in extremely hot temperatures, but just about perfect for the 998.

 

[K80Shooter]

I will go out on a limb and say that the op has made a decision and moved on as this was asked in April of 2022.

 

[EdMat]

I will go out on a limb and say that the op has made a decision and moved on as this was asked in April of 2022.

K80, you know that oil threads never die, they just get bottled up for a spell to mellow with age.

 

[BajaRon]

I will go out on a limb and say that the op has made a decision and moved on as this was asked in April of 2022.

I agree. I don't think anyone is seriously speaking to the OP on this one. I will say that the clutch in the 1330 is much more forgiving that the one in the 998. What works in the former may well destroy the clutch in the latter. So be careful.