Not a hose problem. The clamps have been gone through both warm and cold. Comes out the overflow when it is sitting nd has not been ridden.
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Anyone else have this problem
- Thread starter kngfsh27
- Start date
rcturner
New member
If that is the case, the problem has to be mechanical. There must be a hose or coolant recovery tank problem or the cap itself might be bad.
As far as I can work out, the ONLY ways that coolant is gonna repeatedly end up coming out of the overflow (or tank) once the bike has stopped running is 1). if there's a split or pinhole leak in the tank somewhere near the o/flow outlet (but then it should leak every time you stop & should probably be worse under operating pressure too); or 2). there is a trapped 'bubble' of air somewhere inside the engine/radiator/cooling galleries/cooling system somewhere that every now & then 'burps' some air out after you've ridden it enough to move the bubble's position enough to let it vent, releasing air & pressure into the o/flow tank which causes it to vent about the same volume of coolant onto the ground.... :shocked: BTW, I've seen EXACTLY this set of symptoms occur on quite a few motor vehicles that have had their cooling systems worked on & then returned to service quickly without taking the time to purge the system of trapped air pockets properly.... :sour:
If the cap had failed it would simply empty the tank whenever the coolant gets up to operating temp & never return coolant into the radiator. If it's a hose or clamp problem the leak would occur under pressure & eventually result in overheating during use. If it's a water pump problem, same thing, occur under pressure & eventually result in overheating during use.
Have you (or a dealer/mech) ever actually TRIED purging the cooling system to ensure there are no pockets of air trapped somewhere deep inside the system?? Might be worth a shot, & certainly shouldn't do any (more?) harm.... Not saying it's the ONLY option left to you, but until you do the purge thing, you really can't exclude it, can you?!
If the cap had failed it would simply empty the tank whenever the coolant gets up to operating temp & never return coolant into the radiator. If it's a hose or clamp problem the leak would occur under pressure & eventually result in overheating during use. If it's a water pump problem, same thing, occur under pressure & eventually result in overheating during use.
Have you (or a dealer/mech) ever actually TRIED purging the cooling system to ensure there are no pockets of air trapped somewhere deep inside the system?? Might be worth a shot, & certainly shouldn't do any (more?) harm.... Not saying it's the ONLY option left to you, but until you do the purge thing, you really can't exclude it, can you?!
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I have had it in to the dealer twice for this problem. The anti-freeze is only coming out the overflow. The recovery tank cap has been changed out. It happens with weather changes. Seems to be a barimetric pressure thing.
My wife today kindly reminded me that I go past a Harley dealer when going to the Spyder dealer.
Brentc
Active member
You are correct sir
Just got off phone with dealer after dropping off my 2014rts for a coolant leak. They found several of the factory clamps failed. Brp covered and parts are on order.:thumbup:
Thanks BRP
Just got off phone with dealer after dropping off my 2014rts for a coolant leak. They found several of the factory clamps failed. Brp covered and parts are on order.:thumbup:
Thanks BRP
Bob Denman
New member
Brent,
I'm glad to hear that it was a quick-find, and an easy-fix! :thumbup:
I'm glad to hear that it was a quick-find, and an easy-fix! :thumbup:
I dropped mine off at the dealer again on Thursday. I am hoping they find something this time. The only place they or I can see that it is leaking is out the overflow and only under certain weather conditions. I really wish it was as easy as the clamps, but it doesn't appear to be. Hopefully, I find something out this week. I keep trying to smile and stay positive, but it is getting somewhat frustrating to have to keep taking it back for the same problem.
Brentc
Active member
Me too
Ive been keeping an eye on the leak for a little while, and finally caught a break in the wi tear mess to take it in. Glad they were able to trace it out quick. Plus I got to test drive my new Spyder Hauler.
Ive been keeping an eye on the leak for a little while, and finally caught a break in the wi tear mess to take it in. Glad they were able to trace it out quick. Plus I got to test drive my new Spyder Hauler.
Bob Denman
New member
:clap: That sure is a beauty! :thumbup:
Here's to hoping, that from now on: it only needs to be used for pleasure-trips! :cheers:
Here's to hoping, that from now on: it only needs to be used for pleasure-trips! :cheers:
Harmony 44
New member
Mine is on the trailer with an empty recovery tank waiting for the dealer to finish the snowmobile season, hopefully they can find the leak this year.
rustynail51
Member
coolant leaks
My 98 Goldwing always had a dinner plate sized antifreeze stain on the floor after being in cold storage all winter never did find out where it came from but toped it off every spring and never had a problem I just assumed that the metal contracted enough at 20 below for some o ring or gasket to seep. Have not seen this yet on the spyder yet but than I don't visit it much in the winter. Hope it isn't head gasket or the head itself.
My 98 Goldwing always had a dinner plate sized antifreeze stain on the floor after being in cold storage all winter never did find out where it came from but toped it off every spring and never had a problem I just assumed that the metal contracted enough at 20 below for some o ring or gasket to seep. Have not seen this yet on the spyder yet but than I don't visit it much in the winter. Hope it isn't head gasket or the head itself.
Richardv
New member
It's kind of "normal" when you live in cold weather area....
Hi,
I live on the north shore of Montreal, Canada. Yesterday, again, I commented to my wife..... "hum, it smells prestone" when a car passed by us. The night before we had a 50°F drop. My car will smell everyone in a while, my truck (Cummins 5.9 has been in under warranty 4 time for Prestone leak in fall or spring time. Still does does it and is now to 175,000miles. Never took more than a quart when prestone replacement was due at 50,000miles). Our 4 spyders does it, and leaks everyone in a while. Just check the prestone every so often, and let it go. if it becomes major, act on it, but otherwise....consider it "kind of normal" with big temperature variation.
My RS 2012 "leaked" from day one, but never required more than 1/2 a 500ml bottle prestone once or twice a year. Until last year, when it did a puddle the size of an oil change pan. Went in, for a water pump real replacement. All is fine since then..... but is kept in a heated garage....
Have a great day...
Hi,
I live on the north shore of Montreal, Canada. Yesterday, again, I commented to my wife..... "hum, it smells prestone" when a car passed by us. The night before we had a 50°F drop. My car will smell everyone in a while, my truck (Cummins 5.9 has been in under warranty 4 time for Prestone leak in fall or spring time. Still does does it and is now to 175,000miles. Never took more than a quart when prestone replacement was due at 50,000miles). Our 4 spyders does it, and leaks everyone in a while. Just check the prestone every so often, and let it go. if it becomes major, act on it, but otherwise....consider it "kind of normal" with big temperature variation.
My RS 2012 "leaked" from day one, but never required more than 1/2 a 500ml bottle prestone once or twice a year. Until last year, when it did a puddle the size of an oil change pan. Went in, for a water pump real replacement. All is fine since then..... but is kept in a heated garage....
Have a great day...
Saluda
New member
How you can fix this problem yourself:
I have seen leaks like this on automobile cooling systems. The initial requirements for this type of failure are two things.
1. A drop in atmospheric pressure.
2. A leak in the cooling system.
I'll address item #1 first.
When the temperature drops within the cooling system the existing coolant and air shrink. This creates a lower pressure within the cooling system with respect to atmospheric (external to the cooling system) pressure. If the cooling system has no leaks, then the cooling system pressure cap has a check valve contained within its design to admit this higher atmospheric pressure to the top of the overflow tank as in the case of the Spyder's cooling system. The air is admitted to the overflow tank to equalize the cooling systems pressure to the same level as atmospheric pressure. Without this check valve in the cap the various hoses in the system will be collapsed by the vacuum that is created during each cooling down cycle. Keep in mind that during each heat cycle of the cooling system air if allowed to escape through the overflow tank cap to control the amount of cooling system pressure. A pressurized cooling system operates at a high temperature/efficiency than a atmospheric system. During cool down this air must be allow to return to the cooling system via the check valve contained with the cap.
Item #2
If a leak is present in the cooling system air can be drawn into the the system during cool down, especially if the check valve in the pressure cap is clogged with corrosion/debris. It takes just a small amount of debris to block the check valve and it can be an intermittent occurrence.
I have seen leaks in hoses that have been disturbed by the replacement of a water pump. The hose had cold flow deformation from operating in its fix position, once the hose was disturbed a vacuum leak appeared. During cool down air was drawn into the cooling system. This air could not exit the cooling system with the initial startup and run cycles as it was trapped in a pocket of the hose. The air would expand in this lower pocket. This increased the overall volume of the cooling system raising the level of coolant within the overflow tank and spilling onto the garage floor after a long drive. I have also seen this same process with a failed water pump seal. Please keep in mind that the coolant is much more viscous than air, the air can be drawn into the cooling system by localized low pressure region created by fast moving fluid being pumped past flanges there the hoses affix to the engine. These leaks in hoses can act like check valves themselves, by admitting air, yet blocking fluid flow. This can happen if a flap is created during the removal of the hose, upon reinstallation this flap allows air to be drawn back into the cooling system on cool down, but seals off with under pressure, also corrosion on the flanges will allow for this odd fact that air can flow in but the fluid may not flow out. Sometimes the leak will draw air in, and leak a tiny amount of coolant, just enough to drive you crazy!
In this thread, Bob posted a photo of an atmospheric barometer. This is exactly what can occur if air is being drawn into the cooling system. Since the overflow tank is at the highest point in the cooling system, any air leaks into the system that are trapped in a pocket will increase in volume thus increasing the entire system volume.
Cold weather will greatly increase the likelihood of this problem. The colder the weather the more the coolant will shrink and more air will need to be admitted into the system to alleviate the vacuum that is created with coolant/air shrinkage. If you have a tiny leak in a hose or flange to flange connection it may leak fluid out when hot and allow air in during the cooling process.
How can this problem be prevent?
I have use Tite Seal to great effect to stop these leaks. Here a link
http://www.gunk.ca/CAT_T2566.asp
Just spread a tiny amount into the hoses before you slide them back onto the flanges it solves all leaks! Hoses are easy to get on and off, but the will never leak again.
I have seen leaks like this on automobile cooling systems. The initial requirements for this type of failure are two things.
1. A drop in atmospheric pressure.
2. A leak in the cooling system.
I'll address item #1 first.
When the temperature drops within the cooling system the existing coolant and air shrink. This creates a lower pressure within the cooling system with respect to atmospheric (external to the cooling system) pressure. If the cooling system has no leaks, then the cooling system pressure cap has a check valve contained within its design to admit this higher atmospheric pressure to the top of the overflow tank as in the case of the Spyder's cooling system. The air is admitted to the overflow tank to equalize the cooling systems pressure to the same level as atmospheric pressure. Without this check valve in the cap the various hoses in the system will be collapsed by the vacuum that is created during each cooling down cycle. Keep in mind that during each heat cycle of the cooling system air if allowed to escape through the overflow tank cap to control the amount of cooling system pressure. A pressurized cooling system operates at a high temperature/efficiency than a atmospheric system. During cool down this air must be allow to return to the cooling system via the check valve contained with the cap.
Item #2
If a leak is present in the cooling system air can be drawn into the the system during cool down, especially if the check valve in the pressure cap is clogged with corrosion/debris. It takes just a small amount of debris to block the check valve and it can be an intermittent occurrence.
I have seen leaks in hoses that have been disturbed by the replacement of a water pump. The hose had cold flow deformation from operating in its fix position, once the hose was disturbed a vacuum leak appeared. During cool down air was drawn into the cooling system. This air could not exit the cooling system with the initial startup and run cycles as it was trapped in a pocket of the hose. The air would expand in this lower pocket. This increased the overall volume of the cooling system raising the level of coolant within the overflow tank and spilling onto the garage floor after a long drive. I have also seen this same process with a failed water pump seal. Please keep in mind that the coolant is much more viscous than air, the air can be drawn into the cooling system by localized low pressure region created by fast moving fluid being pumped past flanges there the hoses affix to the engine. These leaks in hoses can act like check valves themselves, by admitting air, yet blocking fluid flow. This can happen if a flap is created during the removal of the hose, upon reinstallation this flap allows air to be drawn back into the cooling system on cool down, but seals off with under pressure, also corrosion on the flanges will allow for this odd fact that air can flow in but the fluid may not flow out. Sometimes the leak will draw air in, and leak a tiny amount of coolant, just enough to drive you crazy!
In this thread, Bob posted a photo of an atmospheric barometer. This is exactly what can occur if air is being drawn into the cooling system. Since the overflow tank is at the highest point in the cooling system, any air leaks into the system that are trapped in a pocket will increase in volume thus increasing the entire system volume.
Cold weather will greatly increase the likelihood of this problem. The colder the weather the more the coolant will shrink and more air will need to be admitted into the system to alleviate the vacuum that is created with coolant/air shrinkage. If you have a tiny leak in a hose or flange to flange connection it may leak fluid out when hot and allow air in during the cooling process.
How can this problem be prevent?
I have use Tite Seal to great effect to stop these leaks. Here a link
http://www.gunk.ca/CAT_T2566.asp
Just spread a tiny amount into the hoses before you slide them back onto the flanges it solves all leaks! Hoses are easy to get on and off, but the will never leak again.
Bob Denman
New member
:clap: Thanks for the great explanation... and the link! :thumbup:
Harmony 44
New member
Wanted to ride so I topped off the reservoir and haven't noticed any leaks sense. After reading the other comments I believe it is an environmental related issue, it only shows up in the late fall/winter time frame. Something must contract enough to leak below a certain temperature, or combination of barometric pressure/temperature. Maybe i'll catch it some day, but as long as the coolant stays in it for the summer, I can live with that.:thumbup:
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