• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Anyone else experienced Handlebar looseness like this?

Looks pretty much standard to me, not that we can really see all that much to judge!? :shocked:

It might be better to show us one END of the bars looking down over the top of a wheel so we can see the distance the end of the bar travels before the wheel starts moving (& maybe see one tie-rod end too?) :dontknow:

And please bear in mind that the DPS will 'take up' some of that handle bar movement once you do actually start moving the Spyder, and altho you've shown us what yours does while the Spyder's standing still with the engine running, at least some of that movement is likely due to the 'slack' built into the top end of the system due to the elec steering assist.... ;)

Over to you! :thumbup:
 
The tierod ends are of variable quality, I've had tight ones and ones so slack when new that I wouldn't put them on to the bike.

To check them you need an assistant: Put your hand around the joint and hold it gently but completely, have someone rock the front wheel side to side to load and unload the joint. If you feel it knock it has play in it.

You can reach in through the suspension to check the inner ones. It's not uncommon to have one good and one bad on the same side of the bike.

I don't know about your area but here it's not possible to buy just the end, we have to buy a complete tierod assembly. If you do this, check the ends before you fit them.

For info: If you rock the wheel top to bottom you can check for top ball joint play in a similar way.

Just watched your vid, I'd say you have some wear or looseness in there, it's very free and kinda clicky in appearance.
 
Just checked my 2011 RT. Engine off, and the free play movement is similar. I'm thinking most of that disappears once the bike is running. At least that's what memory tells me.
 
Spyderlass said:
The tierod ends are of variable quality, I've had tight ones and ones so slack when new that I wouldn't put them on to the bike.

To check them you need an assistant: Put your hand around the joint and hold it gently but completely, have someone rock the front wheel side to side to load and unload the joint. If you feel it knock it has play in it.

You can reach in through the suspension to check the inner ones. It's not uncommon to have one good and one bad on the same side of the bike.

I don't know about your area but here it's not possible to buy just the end, we have to buy a complete tierod assembly. If you do this, check the ends before you fit them.

For info: If you rock the wheel top to bottom you can check for top ball joint play in a similar way.
Click to expand...

Has it been your experience that the ball joint problem generally presents itself with a noticeable front end shake?
 
On mine the looseness came from the steering rod the bottom coupling being loose on the spline all fixed
 
I have had the same situation on mine from the get go but once running and on the road I notice none.
 
Jeriatric said:
Has it been your experience that the ball joint problem generally presents itself with a noticeable front end shake?
Click to expand...

Well, it was a progressive wheel shake while braking that alerted me to a problem. The cause of the shake was an out of true front hub, discussed on another thread, but the tierod was replaced first and gave better control of the errant wheel.

So, to answer your question, I've not ridden with only the worn tierod ends. I wouldn't imagine you'd have a wheel wobble but I'd bet the steering would feel even more waney because the wheel would be free to follow road imperfections.
 
I am getting my ball joints replaced next week. I have noticed some shaking this year that i didn't remember from last year. Thought maybe I had chucked a weight on one wheel. But it does smooth out some times too. I'll report back after they are done. I am getting new front tires put on at the same time, so they will have to re-balance them, so my findings may say what the issue was. I am getting un-even wear on my left tire.

As for the handle bar play, mine is about the same as what is shown in the vid. I checked it with a couple of other bike when i first got mine. They were about the same.
Ray
 
bcer960 said:
I am getting my ball joints replaced next week. I have noticed some shaking this year that i didn't remember from last year. Thought maybe I had chucked a weight on one wheel. But it does smooth out some times too. I'll report back after they are done. I am getting new front tires put on at the same time, so they will have to re-balance them, so my findings may say what the issue was. I am getting un-even wear on my left tire.

As for the handle bar play, mine is about the same as what is shown in the vid. I checked it with a couple of other bike when i first got mine. They were about the same.
Ray
Click to expand...

Have you had it laser aligned?
 
Jeriatric said:
Have you had it laser aligned?
Click to expand...
No I haven't.
It's a 2017 and I have put 41,000 kms on it. Up till I noticed th4e shaking this year it has been rock solid, and my dealer has the "other" (can't remember the name of it) alignment system. Last year on a back highway in eastern Nevada, I went 1.5 miles without touching the handle bars ( it was a test of the alignment) I figured after that long it was good. Of course, they will have to do the alignment again after the new ball joints. So worst case scenario, I will get it done at Norcal in sept.
 
40Xshooter said:
The play in your bars looks EXACTLY like mine. I have a '16 RT-S. I don't think you have anything to worry about.
Click to expand...
Perhaps you've got some wear too...

Look at the video closely, the bars are slack then come to a stop abruptly and there is no wheel movement at all. That is play in something rather than load-up of the steering components. Though it may be typical after a fair bit of usage.
 
Spyderlass said:
Aha, if you want to solve and know the cause of an issue of any kind, never make two changes or adjustments at the same time. It's impossible to know what did what.
Click to expand...

I agree. However we are leaving next week for another small trip, so I don't have time to test them one at a time
 
Spyderlass said:
Perhaps you've got some wear too...

Look at the video closely, the bars are slack then come to a stop abruptly and there is no wheel movement at all. That is play in something rather than load-up of the steering components. Though it may be typical after a fair bit of usage.
Click to expand...
That's correct. I did some more checking today. The steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower u-joint which is above the DPS, the lower steering shaft, and the tie rod ends, have no movement when I move the handlebars within the play region. I took some tupperware off and one headlight out. There is no looseness between the handlebar and the top of the steering shaft. That leaves the upper u-joint as the only place where there can be play, and of course, you can't get to it or see it without taking the entire front end apart!

At this point it looks like the only place where there can be looseness is in the upper u-joint. I'm guessing it's probably in the spline connection between the upper steering shaft section and the u-joint. I'll stop by the dealer tomorrow and check out some other Spyders. If indeed the looseness is not normal I still have 6 weeks of extended warranty to pay for the fix.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Baveux
Front suspension clunk in reverse when braking
Replies
2
Views
482
Baveux
Baveux
cruisinTX
Anyone else experienced this Thumping noise when turning? Ideas on Cause and/or cure?
Replies
5
Views
1K
Two2Three
Two2Three
W
RT insulation deterioration... Yuck and Wild! Anyone else??
Replies
7
Views
431
woppyvac
W
R
Brake fluid in Reservoir & above the seal - anyone else seen this?
Replies
12
Views
1K
BajaRon
BajaRon
amkrat
Stuck on '24 RT-L 10.25" Navigation applet screen - anyone else had this happen?
Replies
10
Views
664
racoon
racoon
Back
Top