Anyone changed out the auto-levelling system on 2018 Spyder RT?

[lvmyspyder]

Good evening fellow Spyder riders. I have a 2018 Spyder RT Limited. It has the auto leveling feature. If you ride solo or two up, a small compressor will engage and level the bike with the increased or the decreased weight in an effort to help the bike ride level. The stock shock with that feature does not "absorb" well if you have one, you likely know what I am talking about. With the stock system, it is not smooth and in fact sounds and feels very "flat" in both sound and function. Its not a bad system, its just like some of BRP's shortcuts were with the shock system, both front and rear IMHO. I am wondering if anyone has changed out that system. How you did it. Approximate expense and if you would do it again considering price and functionality. Other question with this is, were you able to keep that inflation system intact? Thank you in advance for any replies or guidance on this particular issue.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Quite a few folks here have dis-connected the AIR compressor and made the System ...MANUAL .... mostly because they didn't want to Pay for a new compressor. Someone will chime in and explain how to do it...... I bought a Basic RT that didn't have the compressor, so I didn't memorize how to remove it ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[NEXUS]

here you go

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...e-ACS-suspension-system&p=1647466#post1647466

 

[Mikey]

I went to a auto supply store and got a 1/4 in air system coupling, like you use on any air system on a semi-truck. Then I followed the hose from the bag, and the hose from Shrader valve and disconnected them from there sources and put the coupling on both ends of those hoses. I ended taking the dump valve right out of the bike altogether to give me more room to get my hands in there to work on the fittings, because to get you hoses unhooked you have to push in on the hose a little and push on the ring on the end of the fitting then pull on the hose while holding down on the ring on the fitting!! I am making it sound harder than it really is, trust me!!! The bag has a max pressure of 90 psi, and it comes up fast so be careful, I find that 70 psi works great for me and my bride! I don't remember if I unhooked the power to the compressor or not, I did unhook the wire to the dump valve and taped the plug up and wire tied the wire up out of the way! It's worked great so far, but I am going to put a new rear shock on next season and then only use the air bag for a overload when needed!! If you need help PM me if you need support!! P.S remember to check all your fittings when done with soap and water, for leaks before you put the skin back on your ride!!!hyea:

 

[WayneD]

I have a used 2015 RT limited and the air suspension has been a constant problem since I bought it. I want to change the system to manual. Mikey's directions appear to be all I need but I am not sure if the sensor would produce a fault once I unplug all of the connectors in the automatic system. Also, is it possible to reach the hoses by only removing the skin and not taking off the rear cargo package? Any help will be appreciated
Wayne

 

[DGoebel]

Wayne, I too replaced my '13 RTL's air bag system and eventually converted it to manual as above. I could not get my meaty hands in the spaces to make the change without removing the rear cargo package. It can be done, but not with Linebacker hands......

 

[Peter Aawen]

I have a used 2015 RT limited and the air suspension has been a constant problem since I bought it. I want to change the system to manual. Mikey's directions appear to be all I need but I am not sure if the sensor would produce a fault once I unplug all of the connectors in the automatic system. Also, is it possible to reach the hoses by only removing the skin and not taking off the rear cargo package? Any help will be appreciated
Wayne

Wayne, I too replaced my '13 RTL's air bag system and eventually converted it to manual as above. I could not get my meaty hands in the spaces to make the change without removing the rear cargo package. It can be done, but not with Linebacker hands......

View attachment 206335

Wayne, there's no denying that it is time consuming to strip off all the tupperware, but it's not really all that 'hard' to do! :lecturef_smilie:

Just allow yourself plenty of time to do the job, then double that allowance for 'contingencies' (it always takes longer than you'd think! :cus: ) and make sure you keep track of where each panel, screw, &/or push pin etc goes (a sheet of cardboard with a diagram of the panels drawn on it and the screws/push pins inserted into the appropriate spot can help! ); take lotsa pics of every step along the way to make getting it back together correctly easier/less stressful; and don't over-tighten any of those screws or push-pins as you do re-assemble - there's a few screws that go into brass inserts in the plastic, and if you over-tighten them even just the tiniest amount, you'll likely strip the brass insert out of the plastic and create a world of ongoing pain for yourself unless you or someone can help you with plastic welding! :banghead:

Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[Bensonoid]

WayneD, I removed all the ACS components and taped up the connectors on my 2015 and had no faults show up on my screen. If I remember correctly I think something showed up on the computer when it was hooked up to BUDS to turn off my DESS, but no codes on the spyder screen itself.

 

[WayneD]

Hi

I have learned how to remove the Tupperware and rear cargo package with lots of pictures so I hope I can get it all back. I followed Mikey's directions and made a direct connection from the Schrader valve to the bag -- The pressure has dropped from 35 to 25 psi in 3 hours so it seems I still have a leak -- checked the connections with soapy water and cannot see any bubbles but will check again. I saw something about adding slime -- Is this a good or bad idea if the leak persists?

 

[Bensonoid]

If you have the trunk module removed you might consider replacing the pushlok fittings on the air bag and schraeder valve with DOT compression fittings. The pushloks are prone to leakage. It's also a great time to install a fernco cap under the bag to stop small sharp stones from getting in there.

 

[Lew L]

.

I also removed a failed pump and all the leaking connections (mine had a swivel connector, just a leak waiting to happen). works just fine and I only have to check the pressure once a month, never needs much.

When checking for leaks, be sure to check the top of the Schrader valve also.........

Lew L

 

[Lew L]

.

Also,

I just checked the pressure in the air bag for the system and it read 55PSI. Just about where I keep it for ryding by myself. hasn't lost much in months and the temps have dropped a lot. Using the KISS principle on a system that has cost lots of us time and money.

Lew L

 

[WayneD]

Hi Mikey and all,

I'm taking your advice and avoiding slime, think it could just create another problem. I didn't replace the tube with a single length (if leaks persist that's the next step). I have removed both the compressor and solenoid valve and just connected the two longest tube sections with a union to get from the valve to the bag. Still checking for leaks but it just might work. If not, I will replace the hose with one piece. Getting to the top of the bag might be the biggest problem - one of those things you can see or reach but not both at the same time. To get in there I will have to remove the wheel - just a little more work but I'm lazy. The only M10 connectors I've been able to find are the 'push on' type. That kind worked well when I redid house plumbing with PEX, but I think old fashioned compression fittings are likely to be the best. I have not been able to find 1/4" (6mm) tube compression fittings in M10 thread size. I can get 3/8 NPT fittings which can be made to fit if necessary, but I would prefer to stay with M10. Still checking for leaks and waiting for some parts - the tube is not easy to find in a short (less than 30 ft) length. I will likely have almost 30 ft left over when the job is finished. I did extend the electrical connections so should I foolishly decide to replace the solenoid and compressor, I can put them somewhere I can reach without taking the cargo box off. It's a good thing this is a winter project so I'm in no hurry to get out riding - that's still 3 months away.

Thanks for the help and advice.

Wayne

 

[DGoebel]

Hi Mikey and all,

I'm taking your advice and avoiding slime.. All good there, ...Thanks for the help and advice.

Wayne

If all else fails, consider contacting Marcus at M2 Shocks and have him fit you with a purpose built rear shock and spring that doesn't really need the airbag at all. I eventually did that on my '13 RTL and Marcus was great about custom setup for my shocks, that Spyder rode so much better after that. I still left the airbag with single airline to the schrader valve in, but kept the pressure low enough it would just be a real hard bang for it to affect the suspension.

 

[WayneD]

It works. The bag has been flat for the last year or two and I bottomed out a lot so now I have control. I removed the compressor and solenoid. I did not crawl into the back to remove the last tube going to the air bag. but connected a replacement air tube going directly to the Schrader valve. I used 'push type' connectors to join the tube and at the valve; no (or minimal) leaks so far - they work. I had to buy 10M of tubing, so I have lots left over. It is PU tubing, 6mm od, 4mm id, and rated at 120psi working pressure. If anyone needs a few ft, it is free except for postage. I'm in Canada so postage might be excessively high, but the tube is free. If anyone is interested, please contact me via PM.
Thanks to everyone for your help. This was a good winter project as there was no hurry to finish.
Wayne

 

[Mikey]

I am glad you rolled your sleeves up and dove into her!!:clap::2thumbs: Wasn't as bad as you thought, was it? Now all you have to do is find your right pressure for you. I use around 65-70 lbs, for me and the bride. Enjoy!!!

 

[WayneD]

Final Update. I followed as much of the advice as I could and went directly from the airbag hose to the Schraeder valve. (did not go all the way to the bag). All seemed fine with the pressure holding for several days until I went riding, then it leaked down in 2 days. I could live with this as long as I was home with a compressor, or I could even use a tire inflator on the road, but I decided to try a built-in solution. I think my problem with the automatic leveler is with the sensor or computer, but these are things beyond my understanding. I decided to go for manual control. The compressor is iffy, so I moved it to an accessible location just in front of the Rt Case (easy to replace without removing the rear trunk etc.) I replaced the check valve in case it was a source of back leaks and connected the pump to a new switched power supply. I added a manifold connecting the Schraeder valve, compressor, and air bag using push connectors for the tubing and 1/8" NPT threads for the brass. I also added a pressure relief valve set at 60psi. All of this is common air pressure and is located behind the right rear plastic panels on the RT in front of the storage case. The on/off switch is under the seat. When I need to add air, I turn on the pump and the noisy pressure relief valve tells me when to turn it off at 50-60 psi. I realize that BRPs system is more elegant but at least I can control the air bag myself. It has been flat for the last two years so I'm better off and did not have to spend the $$$ for original parts. My Spyder is 9 years old and is declining in value so I am prepared to do things that I would not do to a new one. My home-made system is out of sight behind the plastic, and the BRP system can always be re-installed with a new compressor when and if I could bring myself to spend the money. The solution is a Rube Goldberg design, but it works, and it was relatively inexpensive ($50?? - all parts from amazon) and I had the satisfaction of doing it myself.

Thanks for all your help and advice.

Wayne (2015 RT)

 

[Mikey]

All you need to do is to get the right coupling to hook on to your hose coming up from your bag and grab the pipe that is coming out of the Schraeder valve, coupling them together; then put about 40psi into the bag and spray the WHOLE system with soapy water and check for leaks. Easy Peezy!!! Any Napa or auto parts store that has truck air-line parts should have what you need. PM me if you don't get it.