Anyone actually installed Aprilia Engine Kits on 998 V-twin Spyder?

[BajaRon]

Thanks Mike. 15 W 40 seems to be all that I can find right now. Do you think that will work? Also, apparently these engines burn oil I've read. What do you think of using viscosity boosters like Lucas or STP Motor Honey to reduce oil consumption. For years I have added some transmission fluid to engine oil a week or so before oil changes to clean out gunk. When I changed the oil on this Spyder I didn't do that for fear of causing the clutch to slip. Is this a good idea for these trikes? If so, what type would be best? PS I also had to repair the license plate light. The screw was punched through, and the gasket was shot. And finally, is there a way to check the ECM without BUDS? My primary goal is to get this Spyder running but while I'm at it I might as well try to make it last and in the process, address some cosmetic issues. Thanks William

A full synthetic 15/40 is just fine. Make absolutely sure it is JASO MA2 rated and you're good to go. Some customers run 20/50 and like it. I'm not a fan unless you find yourself riding in triple digits fairly often. I personally like a 10/40 or 15/40 in the Spyder for most environments. But 20/50 will also work well and I don't have any real data that would support my position on this.

Alright I have grip on it. I watched a DIY alignment on YouTube.A guy aligned his Jeep. (Same thing, only different). Also no one chimed in on whether or not to post photos of my trike naked. So I'm continuing with reinstalling the body panels. I thought perhaps there was a reason for not wanting me to post naked trike photos. I don't want to step on any toes, just looking for a way to help since I have received so much help.

I wish you all the luck in the world on this one. I can tell you that the Spyder is definitely NOT a Jeep. To do this right, you need to align the front wheels using the rear wheel as you starting point. It is very important that all 3 wheels be going in the same direction. My experience is that without the correct laser attachment system, you have little to no chance of getting a correct alignment. I know there are other opinions out there. And more power to them if they are able to make it work. But after a lot of time and effort, Lamont and I were not able to accomplish a good alignment using any other means.

 

[wtmjr]

Hmmm. That is exactly what I was concerned about. This will require some thinking over. For now, I'll reinstall the body panels. I'm still thinking the light weight, missing air dam, and possibly the shocks set too stiff. Maybe having some effect, the faster I went the squirrelier it got. Also, I don't think the DPS was working. Of course, I have never ridden it before, so I have no experience to compare. But riding it didn't clear any codes; quite the contrary, it added two. I think all of them will require BUDS to sort out, initializing, and pinpointing issues. Looking to next spring, I could ride it most of the way to Albuquerque on the remaining portions of old US Route 66 and service roads. If I get the steering problem sorted well enough...

 

[Freddy]

What Ron says of wheel alignment is correct however, the near-enuff way I suggest is far better than how they came from the factory: toe-out, which always was and probly is the cause of what you experienced. If you can find a place that can do it the ideal way and can afford it, do so. If the DPS isn't working as it should you will get warnings on the dash.

Side wall run-out is slight 'bulges' or unevenness observed when rotating the wheel with something like a block almost touching the rubber.

 

[wtmjr]

Okay, thank you. You're right, it's worth a try, right? I have been thinking about laser alignment. Now that I understand how it works, I have an idea involving some bungee cords, laser pointers, straight pieces of angle iron, and a measuring tape. And a board to shine the lasers on to allow measurements to be made. Place a laser on the frame to provide a center line. One laser on either side of the rear tire; two on either side of the lower frame; and one on each front tire. All mounted on angle iron & bungeed to the wheels pointing forward onto the board. Laser pointers used to be inexpensive. I don't know what they run to now. I think the hard part will be ensuring the lasers point straight forward in line with the wheels. I will need to wait to do anything. Laser pointers on eBay run to about $11. By repositioning lasers this might be done with one laser, one angle iron, and a marker. Mark where each laser points, and measure from your marks. Well, there's my idea for you all to mull over.

 

[wtmjr]

Many thanks to Baja Ron, Freddy, and Peter. Special thanks to Peter for correcting my poor grammar and punctuation. (in college I sent most of my papers to a secretarial pool)!

 

[wtmjr]

Does anyone know what this connection is for? It has been so long since I took my trike apart, I don't remember for certain, but I believe this was never connected to anything. It starts under the upper front frame in the (I think) engine wiring harness and has about two feet of wrapped wire. It is on a 2008 GS SM5. Thank you in advance. William

 

[Freddy]

How many wires into it?

 

[wtmjr]

Hi Freddy. There are four wires about two feet long and wrapped but not shielded. The connection is a distinctive asymmetrical flattened oval shape. Please see photos. William

 

[wtmjr]

Hi! I got it back together. It does ride much better with all the body panels on it. Does anyone know what type of exhaust this is? Thanks.
William :yes:



Edit: It does say Yoshimura on the plate fixed to the side...

 

[Freddy]

It has the name on it - Yoshimura.

Yes I saw the connector pic. I've looked at the wiring diagram until I went cross-eyed and can't identify a loose connector. What colours are those wires? On the old harness, does it look like that connector was actually connected to anything?

 

[wtmjr]

Thanks Freddy, as best I can remember It wasn't connected to anything. But not knowing for sure I asked, thinking it might have something to do with the error codes. I didn't think to check the color of the wires. Sorry. I will check that when I get a chance. It may be awhile I am having surgery tomorrow. I don't know what the recovery period will be. I also looked at the wiring diagram. But I have yet to make much sense of it. I sure miss the old Haines and Chilton's shop manuals. They were designed for dummies like me.

 

[wtmjr]

Thanks for the exhaust ID . I couldn't make it out.