Anybody use Amsoil?

[BLACK WIDOW]

motorcycle oil

Castrol Power RS R4 5w40 fully synthetic - Spyder warranty compliant per owner's manual.

Owner - Reminder keep receipts for proof of doing oil change

Just think if BRP is blaming Juice Box for recall software problems just thing what they will do with use of Amsoil 10W40.

I think they would have a very difficult time proving that Amsoil 10W40 damaged your engine. Personally that would be the least of my worries.nojokeIMHO


Michael:doorag:

 

[BajaRon]

. . . ordering oil and filters works better than tires?

Tom

You do have a point there...I got lucky on the oil and filters! :yes:

 

[BRPjunkie]

The problem is that BRP does not have to prove that an oil that does not meet their spec ruined the engine. They just have to take the position that it did. They control the warranty process through the dealer and if they refuse to cover engine damage under warranty, you are then left to legal measures to try to recover under the warranty. They have the language, the lawyers, the dealers and the time to make life difficult. I agree that the Rotax is a pretty bullet proof engine and I would have bigger concerns about other component failures and warranty claims than the engine. I'm using the BRP 5W-40 since it is still available at my Sea Doo dealer.

 

[BajaRon]

Just think if BRP is blaming Juice Box for recall software problems just thing what they will do with use of Amsoil 10W40.

They won't say a word. Any oil that meets the manufacturer's specs is not a warranty issue. Some dealers and manufacturer's have been spewing this line for years to sell product. But they can't back it up.

BRP doesn't even make oil. They contract with someone to slap their label on a can or bottle, jack the price up and sell you the same thing you could buy for a lot less in a different container.

It may make you feel better but that is where the advantage ends.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

The problem is that BRP does not have to prove that an oil that does not meet their spec ruined the engine. They just have to take the position that it did. They control the warranty process through the dealer and if they refuse to cover engine damage under warranty, you are then left to legal measures to try to recover under the warranty. They have the language, the lawyers, the dealers and the time to make life difficult. I agree that the Rotax is a pretty bullet proof engine and I would have bigger concerns about other component failures and warranty claims than the engine. I'm using the BRP 5W-40 since it is still available at my Sea Doo dealer.

Amsoil meets every oil spec required by BRP or any other motorcycle manufacturer. Even BRP states ("or equivalivent Motorcycle oil"). The only way you would compromise the specifications would be to use a auto oil instead of a Motorcycle oil. As far as the weight is concerned that is a temperature issue not a oil Quality specification. I personally think that a 5 Weight oil is to light for my use. (You can find a lot of good information on this subject). I even understand that now BRP is selling a 10W40 and not telling anyone what the weight is on the bottle; go figure.:f_spider:


Michael:doorag:

 

[Longlegs]

A little more info on the viscosity of oils. The rated viscosity, 10w40 for example means it is a 10 vis oil when cold that acts like a 40 vis when up to operating temp. The further apart the two numbers are the more modifiers required to make oil behave like a thicker oil. The advantage of the thinner vis oil is that it flows better cold. But when you go to a full synthetic oil it's flow characteristics remain the same over a much wider range.

 

[BajaRon]

Amsoil meets every oil spec required by BRP or any other motorcycle manufacturer. Even BRP states ("or equivalivent Motorcycle oil"). The only way you would compromise the specifications would be to use a auto oil instead of a Motorcycle oil. As far as the weight is concerned that is a temperature issue not a oil Quality specification. I personally think that a 5 Weight oil is to light for my use. (You can find a lot of good information on this subject). I even understand that now BRP is selling a 10W40 and not telling anyone what the weight is on the bottle; go figure.:f_spider:


Michael:doorag:

The difference beween 5w-40 and 10w-40 is not all that much. The reason autos recommend 5w-30 is for slightly increased fuel mileage. But as someone else has said, the bigger the spread between numbers the more modifiers must be added. Modifiers are expensive (good ones anyway) and tend to break down more quickly than the oil does.

As the modifiers break down you lose viscosity (weight)

If you look at tests done by AmsOil and others you'll see that some oils do not even meet the standards printed on the label right out of the can. Like a listed 10w can actually be a 5w oil.

Some oils lose their stated viscosity fairly quickly. This is because they use inferior modifiers that break down quickly.

I think AmsOil is the best. There may be other oils out there that are as good but at the very least AmsOil is one of the best.

The oil in our Spyder's does far more than an automobile oil is asked to do. It runs in the engine, which automotove oils do also. Then it also handles the wet clutch and transmission gears (which car oil does not do).

In a perfect world you would use 3 different lubricants for these 3 tasks. But with a good synthetic oil it really isn't necessary.

Gears are very hard on oil. So our Spyder is harder on oil than a car engine would be.

Gears like a thicker oil than engine parts to keep from having metal to metal contact and wear. For this reason I actually prefer the 10w-40. 10w is plenty thin enough to flow well at any temperture a sane person would want to ride in.

 

[truck 85]

Redline oil for me.... Nothing against any of the other synthetics, I just found Redline to work the best for me in my other bikes, so in the Spyder it goes.........

had horsepower gain the zx10r in my mini sprint. when i changed from mobile one to red line on the dyno.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

The difference beween 5w-40 and 10w-40 is not all that much. The reason autos recommend 5w-30 is for slightly increased fuel mileage. But as someone else has said, the bigger the spread between numbers the more modifiers must be added. Modifiers are expensive (good ones anyway) and tend to break down more quickly than the oil does.

As the modifiers break down you lose viscosity (weight)

If you look at tests done by AmsOil and others you'll see that some oils do not even meet the standards printed on the label right out of the can. Like a listed 10w can actually be a 5w oil.

Some oils lose their stated viscosity fairly quickly. This is because they use inferior modifiers that break down quickly.

I think AmsOil is the best. There may be other oils out there that are as good but at the very least AmsOil is one of the best.

The oil in our Spyder's does far more than an automobile oil is asked to do. It runs in the engine, which automotove oils do also. Then it also handles the wet clutch and transmission gears (which car oil does not do).

In a perfect world you would use 3 different lubricants for these 3 tasks. But with a good synthetic oil it really isn't necessary.

Gears are very hard on oil. So our Spyder is harder on oil than a car engine would be.

Gears like a thicker oil than engine parts to keep from having metal to metal contact and wear. For this reason I actually prefer the 10w-40. 10w is plenty thin enough to flow well at any temperture a sane person would want to ride in.

:agree::clap:

Michael:doorag:

 

[dave01]

I use Motul 300V in the bikes and now in the Spyder. Great oil and it has held up to the extreme temps the Turbo Busa runs at with no problem, so I figured it would be good for te Spyder too