• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Anybody else have trouble putting in Speed Bleeders?

2dogs -- I should have explained my observation. Headwrench had to open the brake system to install the SBs. But being unsure they were the correct size, the system had to be left open while measurements, comparisons, etc were being performed. I suspect Headwrench has the same number of hands as me (two) so doesn't have a spare finger to put over the opening. So brake fluid will be coming out, slowly, without means to prevent it until an OEM vs SB decision is made. And whatever makes brake fluid (and hydraulic fluid) slippery makes it, in my experience, a bit messier to clean up than engine oil. And it seems to seep into whatever your workshop floor material is unlike engine oil which succumbs to kitty litter.

Once Headwrench installs the SBs then his brake fluid changes will be clean and dry just like mine and the rest of us.

I've had far too much experience over the years doing brake jobs to discuss the issue any further with those who know more than I. It is a waste of effort. I do agree with proper preparation to avoid accidents followed by immediate cleanup which is key to a successful job. If you are one of those who are all thumbs and you know you are, take the job to someone who knows how to do it right. Everyone needs assistance from time to time and there's no disgrace for seeking it. Today things are very different than days gone by. Now you simply unbolt the old one bolt on the new one, fill'er up and go. And by the way, thank you for the kind reply Bert.
 
The answer to my question sure did take a turn...........thank you guys for the quick responce ........my problem is solved......didnt realize my question would stir up so much controversy..now back to the show........
 
Speed bleeders

I don't have any ...... but are there Metric and SAE versions ....????? ....thanks:thumbup: Mike
 
JUST AN FYI HERE............................K80SHOOTER if you order the speed bleeders in the provided link, You will be getting SB's that wont fit
UtahPete your Spyder better be older then 2013 or a Ryker those arn't going to work for you either

http://www.speedbleeder.com/bikechart.htm

T.P.

Mine is 2014 RT. Thanks for the fitment chart; apparently I need different ones altogether from what previous posters had said;

Spyder RT Ltd 2014-15
SB6100 front
SB6100 rear
SB1010S abs unit
 
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I now use a vacuum bleeder system where I use a vacuum generator connected to my compressor. I use an intermediate container that is connected to vacuum generator and a line goes from the container to the brake bleeder. You apply the vacuum and crack open the bleeder and the fluid is drawn through the lines. Make sure to monitor the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to make sure no air gets in the lines. Close the bleeder when the fluid runs clear from the bleeder. This may be a 2 person job.
 
Thanks both to Utah Pete & TP, I had already found them on the speed bleeders website and was going to question this till TP pointed it out.

I'll get mine from speedbleeder.com
 
The correct part number for newer Spyders is SB6100 or at least that is what I ordered for my 2019 RTL and they fit front and rear perfectly.
2022-08-20_21-47-03.jpg
 
Speaking of the SB6100 Speed bleeders, what type are you all buying? The $7/each basic ones or $15/each SS ones?
 
Ss bleeders

Speaking of the SB6100 Speed bleeders, what type are you all buying? The $7/each basic ones or $15/each SS ones?

I went with the SS. They are a lot more than the basic, but they are better quality.

If you have the dollars, go ahead and purchase the SS.
AIways buy what you can afford.

Stay Healthy. ....:thumbup:
 
I have worked on a "LOT" of older vehicles, none of which had SS bleeders.

The only problems that I have encountered were where someone used the wrong tools to try to open them or the bleeder hole was full of mud. SS would not have stopped any of this.
Always use either a 6 point socket or 6 point wrench of the "CORRECT" size and never use vise grips or pliers to open them.
 
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