Anybody else have trouble putting in Speed Bleeders?

[Headwrench]

Anybody else have trouble putting in the bleeders?...mine went in about one thread then was hard to turn them in with my fingers.......i didnt wanna force them until i asked on here....i dont want to ruin the caliper threads by forcing them in.....i called speedbeeders and i do have the correct ones for my 2014 spyder rts....is it the thread sealant that makes them screw in hard with my fingers?.......anybody run across this? ......thank you

 

[shakin_jake]

Clean the tread sealant off the threads then try running them in by hand

You like now they thread after that?, then find out what the seller recommends to use and go for it

 

[RICZ]

Clean the tread sealant off the threads then try running them in by hand

You like now they thread after that?, then find out what the seller recommends to use and go for it

NOOOOOOOOO!!! The thread sealer is part of the package that makes them work. LEAVE IT ON! Use a wrench and be sure they are not cross threaded.

 

[T.P.]

For my 2017 F3T they sent me SB8125L M8X1.0 (3 For the calipers) and SB10s M10X1.0 for the brake manifold as of 3/6/2020
At that time they had 8MM bleeders listed by mistake and had to exchange them for the 6MM (SB6100 M6X1.0)
Yours should be the same #s

T.P.

 

[SNOOPY]

NOOOOOOOOO!!! The thread sealer is part of the package that makes them work. LEAVE IT ON! Use a wrench and be sure they are not cross threaded.

Exactly


.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

NOOOOOOOOO!!! The thread sealer is part of the package that makes them work. LEAVE IT ON! Use a wrench and be sure they are not cross threaded.

:agree: .... and when you TRY and clean those threads bits of the " thread sealer " will come off and get into the brake fluid, I'm sure that will cause problems at some point...... jmho ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[JSRT]

I just added the speed bleeders over the weekend on a 2010 RT. Was only able to get about one turn by hand, then used a wrench the rest of the way.

 

[BertRemington]

I installed the Goodridge SB6100 (M6x1.00) on all three calipers for my 2014 RT-S. As I recall the sealant required some extra force needed after the first turn but nothing like thread-damage force. Compare both the diameter and the thread pitch with your current bleeders (yeah things will get messy -- brake fluid is almost as bad as hydraulic fluid for mess). And maybe use a finger-held socket to ensure proper alignment.

Once they are installed you will enjoy how quick and easy the job will be.

 

[2dogs]

Lacquer thinner will clean up brake fluid nicely.

 

[Eckhard]

Generally lots of water is recommended to clean up brake fluid. Lacquer thinner attacks various plastics and paint finishes.

 

[remus]

Something I was taught was to turn a screw or bolt backwards 1/2 a turn after seating before before tightening to make sure the threads are properly aligned. I put the speed bleeders on last weekend and did this then was able to tighten them about 1 -1/2 turns before needing a wrench. Had no problems with cross threading they just got tight quickly due to the extra material on the threads. If you look closely at the threads you can tell about how many turns before you can expect to feel the bleeder tighten and need a wrench tp finnish.

 

[pidjones]

BTW, 91% isopropyl alcohol does a nice job of cleaning up brake fluid while not damaging paint or plastics. I keep a couple bottles of it around the garage as a general-use solvent.

 

[shakin_jake]

NOOOOOOOOO!!! The thread sealer is part of the package that makes them work. LEAVE IT ON! Use a wrench and be sure they are not cross threaded.

~~~I advised to remove the sealant (for the threads) so the OP would be satisfied the the thread pitch is correct. What I omitted to say was if he was happy with the threading, to then apply new thread sealant (consult the manufacturer of the bleeders) as to which sealant to apply


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Please forgive any typos, I’m recuperating from another UTI Episode

 

[Mikey]

Just did mine about a month ago, went well for me!! If you match the thread of the new ones with the old ones and they match, it's the sealant thats hanging you up as long as they are going on straight they will go no and do the job!!! Best invention sense the wheel!!!:2thumbs:

 

[RICZ]

I could never get a good bleed until I learned of Speed Bleeders. It is the sealant preventing the air sneaking past the threads that makes the difference. That and the check valve make getting good, hard bleeds so easy.

 

[2dogs]

Generally lots of water is recommended to clean up brake fluid. Lacquer thinner attacks various plastics and paint finishes.

JMHO, but if you're that sloppy handling brake fluid you shouldn't be anywhere near brake fluid.

 

[oldgoat]

JMHO, but if you're that sloppy handling brake fluid you shouldn't be anywhere near brake fluid.

get of your high horse. It is a rare person that does not spread a little around.

And, water is the best way to get the brake fluid us imperfect mortals spill, off anything. Brake fluid is soluble in water. no need for organic solvents.

 

[EdMat]

And, water is the best way to get the brake fluid us imperfect mortals spill, off anything. Brake fluid is soluble in water. no need for organic solvents.

Yep, while other products will mix with the glycol eithers in brake fluid and remove them the act of rubbing with a rag saturated in alcohol, acetone, naphtha etc. can cause problems if the brake fluid has already started to penetrate the paint. By rinsing with water, (pouring a cup of it over spot, water hose, spray mist bottle) you dilute and remove it from the surface. I would still go back a little while later and wash it with a bit of soap, being gentle.

 

[Lew L]

.

I plan on preventing problems. That said, strategically placed wet rags solve a drop of sloppyness with ease. Filling the reservoir on my poor, Old, slow V-Max has the clutch and brake reservoirs just above the " tank". An ounce of prevention...........

Lew L

 

[BertRemington]

2dogs -- I should have explained my observation. Headwrench had to open the brake system to install the SBs. But being unsure they were the correct size, the system had to be left open while measurements, comparisons, etc were being performed. I suspect Headwrench has the same number of hands as me (two) so doesn't have a spare finger to put over the opening. So brake fluid will be coming out, slowly, without means to prevent it until an OEM vs SB decision is made. And whatever makes brake fluid (and hydraulic fluid) slippery makes it, in my experience, a bit messier to clean up than engine oil. And it seems to seep into whatever your workshop floor material is unlike engine oil which succumbs to kitty litter.

Once Headwrench installs the SBs then his brake fluid changes will be clean and dry just like mine and the rest of us.