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Any way to fix computer brake intervention - just asking?

3ntune

Member
just got back from the Ozarks and have a ques. Every time I go into tight turns the bike takes over and the brake's apply them selves .It ask like a computer takes over and slows me down. Anyway to fix this
 
You may be driving too aggressively. Are you getting the "nanny" light? It will only blink for a second or two. I am guessing that is the most likely issue.

I am a very conservative driver. I have turned the "nanny" on a couple times during some of the twisties. If you have to brake during the turn, that is another hint. You should be able to accelerate a little during the twisties. :bowdown:
 
You may be driving too aggressively. Are you getting the "nanny" light? It will only blink for a second or two. I am guessing that is the most likely issue.

I am a very conservative driver. I have turned the "nanny" on a couple times during some of the twisties. If you have to brake during the turn, that is another hint. You should be able to accelerate a little during the twisties. :bowdown:

:agree: one of the computers is trying to save your LIFE ..... whenever you drive over the limits( dialed in ) one of the computers is going to be tripped and give a warning ..... If it's very serious it may actually stop you altogether ..... JMHO ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Don't know what spyder he's riding but is it possible the computers could be faulty?

It's 'possible', but highly unlikely!! These VSS/Nanny systems are tested to destruction and beyond, and are usually the most reliable thing on your car/motorcycle/truck! :lecturef_smilie:

Of course, one or more of the sensors that feed them info may be out of whack/failing, but it's far more likely that the only thing needing re-calibration is the organic control software ... ie, the Rider! :banghead:

3ntune, have you tried leaning IN to the corners; maybe even moving your bum off the seat on the INSIDE; and ONLY PULLING on the inside hand as you steer, leaning in & forwards as if you were going to kiss the wrist of your inside hand?!? Pushing transfers weight up high over to the outside of the Spyder/corner, loads up the outside wheel & makes the yaw sensor scream in a way that prompts the VSS/Nanny to react violently! Getting your weight across to the inside of the bike/corner (pulling the handlebar back from a low position rather than pushing from up high with your outside hand) will help you transfer your weight in & down, reducing the centrifugal effect on the Spyder where it seems as if it's trying to throw you off the outside of the corner, and by doing so, reduces the urgency the computer/VSS/Nanny feels to calm your cornering down & keep you safe from your own cornering exuberance! :ohyea:

Or you could just slow down & take it easier... :dontknow:

Just Sayin' :rolleyes:
 
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While it is entirely possible there is nothing wrong with you Spyder, no, the settings points are not a tunable item.

However, it could be very likely your Spyder is not broken but not correctly adjusted or set up. There are two steering sensors, if either is out of parameters, the computer will not be getting correct input. Because of this, the computer might believe you as the rider are inducing these sensors to a position it sees and with that automatically making the change.

As an example, a steering sensor not nulled and favoring as an example near the limit a left input, would more easily go to fault in a left turn, while not even getting close to fault in a right turn because of the offset. Being within the acceptable range though, no fault will appear.

Our own Spyder, while within specs did have offsets from when it was produced. Since purchasing BUDS a while back, I have reset the sensors to be very accurately nulled and the Spyder is more enjoyable to ride with less electronic influence.
 
just got back from the Ozarks and have a ques. Every time I go into tight turns the bike takes over and the brake's apply them selves .It ask like a computer takes over and slows me down. Anyway to fix this

If you could disable the VSS, you wouldn't want to. Talking to the test riders at BRP, they had a switch that turned off the VSS system. And to a person they said, 'Don't Do It!' They said the Spyder will treat you like a Lawn Dart if you turn it off. The Nanny can be a real pain in the neck. But she is much better than you and your Spyder in the ditch.

However, there are things that you can do to reduce the Nanny effect. From improving your riding style (Smooth is Fast) to suspension upgrades. You may be surprised that you can have your cake and eat it too, in this case.
 
I had a similar experience when I moved to a Spyder from 2 wheels. After replacing the sway bar and oem tires, the nanny became a lot quieter and allowed me to burn through corners almost as quick as 2 wheels did. Becoming smoother as mentioned above will help even more but that may take more saddle time. The oem tires do not stick well if you're an aggressive rider.
 
........ not correctly adjusted or set up. There are two steering sensors, if either is out of parameters, the computer will not be getting correct input. .......As an example, a steering sensor not nulled ......Since purchasing BUDS a while back, I have reset the sensors to be very accurately nulled and the Spyder is more enjoyable to ride with less electronic influence.

PMK, could you elaborate on how you determined the improper initial configuration and how you reset the steering sensors. I'm preparing a list of BUDS related items I'd like to have checked on my new to me '18 RTL and this possibility just made the list. Also, should I get a laser alignment done before having this checked?
 
PMK, could you elaborate on how you determined the improper initial configuration and how you reset the steering sensors. I'm preparing a list of BUDS related items I'd like to have checked on my new to me '18 RTL and this possibility just made the list. Also, should I get a laser alignment done before having this checked?

Message me on FB Messenger please. Easier to follow the conversation or send photos.
 
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