Any reason not to Connect heated gear to acc outlets on 2022 F3?

[Lowflyingowl]

Is there any reason not to connect my heated vest to one of the "Customer Accessories" outlets on my F3 base? Tourmaster wants me to connect direct to the battery, but the outlets would be so much simpler and would not be hot until I'm moving....
Thanks for any input! Getting on the Spyder again after 13 years on 2 wheels.

 

[Peter Aawen]

The reason they ask you to go direct to the battery is to ensure that the wires, the fuses, and the circuit itself can carry the current draw of the heated gear without setting your Spyder on fire! :lecturef_smilie:

So sure, you can connect to one of those 'Customer Accessory' circuits, just so long as you KNOW that all those things ^^ in the circuit you choose are really up to carrying the current draw of your heated gear :trolleys:

My guess is that they juuust might not be up to it, or the heated gear manufacturer would be suggesting you do that rather than go direct to the battery... :dontknow:

 

[AndysF3S]

I don't have access to the shop manual for an F3 yet but in all other Canam/BRP vehicles the wiring to all circuits is fused so that should prevent wiring overload.

Check your directions that came with the vest and see what the max current draw is and then you can check the fuse on the wiring you plan to plug into. Do not ever increase the size of the fuse if it blows.

If you haven't wired in any extra accessories to any given fuse you may be able to use that accessory source safely. If it blows the fuse your solution will be to wire direct and make sure you have a fuse on that circuit to protect the wiring and battery if your vest wire gets shorted.JMO

 

[Bfromla]

Independent circuit cause less havoc & just simple if can snake wires properly avoid pinch & heat points. Generally advisable for higher load requirements.

 

[TonyS]

My 2015 F3S customer accessory circuit is fused at 10 amps (fuse F6 in the right hand fuse box)

My Keiss heated vest is quoted as 1.5 amps.

Note that all 3 accessory outlets are from that 10 amp fuse.

I’ve got a Tomtom satnav, brake module and a signature led light connected to the 3 outlets so I reckon around a total of 2.7 amps (including the heated vest) – so well within the fuse rating.

The wire size to the accessory circuits is 18 awg (American wire gauge) – safe current capacity would be dependant on the length of wire but for this sort of use is fine.

Check what the current rating is for the heated items you intend to connect.
If it’s just the Tourmaster vest only, I’ve seen a 3.1 amp rating so this should still be ok.

 

[RayBJ]

If you want to have the heat circuit active only when 'moving' AND be certain of the power load, use a relay controlled by your accessory wire and run the heated gear to the battery thru the relay.

A more robust wiring setup would look something like this:

 

[2dogs]

Make it simple. Install a fused line directly off your battery and run it up under your seat. From there you can operate many accessories. I run two sets of heated clothing, charge my cell phone, and my Sena headsets all at the same time. In the winter it serves as a battery tender connection.

 

[Lowflyingowl]

Thanks to all for your input. I have decided to connect direct to battery, with outlet plug up next to the key. Deciding factor was that I want to use it for battery tender also, like on my Z900.

 

[PDXRTL]

I'm awaiting delivery of my 2024 Spyder RTL and am prepping for things I know I want to add. How long of a line will I need to get from the battery to the seat to be able to plug in my WarmNSafe jacket? Is the standard 32 inch W&S cable enough?

 

[fatboy]

no you will need to extend a couple of feet

 

[2dogs]

no you will need to extend a couple of feet

Longer than that.

 

[Lowflyingowl]

I used the standard cable for the Tourmaster. That brought me to 5 inches out of the left side plastics, had to add a 6 inch extension to reach the lead from the vest. Works perfectly and also keeping the battery tender plugged in when not riding.