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Any ideas???

Flamewinger

New member
Trying to get bearings out. I've got a friend coming over tomorrow so maybe he'll be able to do it but any ideas?

Thanks

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1423866951.176630.jpg
 
Might be easier if you take the rotor and hub off. You might be able to drive the one out of the hub from behind. There is a crush tube in there from the wheel bearing to the hub bearing.
 
i was going to say the same thing, remove the rotor because there might also be a C ring holding the bearing in
 
According to the parts list the only C-clip on the rear drive is on the left, outer side, of the double row bearing on the sprocket. There are only spacers and washers on the right side of the whole assembly.
 
Trying to get bearings out. I've got a friend coming over tomorrow so maybe he'll be able to do it but any ideas?

Thanks

View attachment 102223

Might be easier if you take the rotor and hub off. You might be able to drive the one out of the hub from behind. There is a crush tube in there from the wheel bearing to the hub bearing.

:agree: Make sure that there is no fine dirt at the bearing and lay the unit over clean it with brake clean and WD40. I never had this problem.


Mike
 
I had that problem on mine, tried at least three different bearing pullers with no luck. Ended up taking it to a machine shop, the bearing ended up splitting in half horizontally but the machinist was able to use a welder on the piece that was still stuck and get it out.
 
Ouch! I hope I don't have the same problem. The bearings are very hard to move and I have to use pliers to grab the inside race to get them to roll at all.


Susie
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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RIPLEY'S

Believe it or not , but IMHO if the tire is in contact with the ground I believe it is acting sort of like a SPRING !!!!....and taking away a lot of your impact force .......This is like trying to do CPR on a person in BED it's not going to work well......................just a thought .....Mike :thumbup:
 
Without being there some key points are difficult to see.

Using the puller and slide hammer, you may need to offset the sleeve and pound out the bearing in order for the puller jaw to grab the race.

USE HEAT but with care and safety.

This is a video I quickly found on YouTube, not specific to a Spyder, but the technique and process are the same.


Personally, I would remove the brake disc to prevent bending or getting grease on it, then again, if things went easy, I could leave it on.

Did I mention to carefully use heat.

With a screen name of FlameWinger, heat should be a way of life...
PK
 
Ok, 10 minutes and they're out. My ears are still pinging! Weird thing is while they were in, the inside race was hard to move. Now they're out they roll fine. Not sure if it was the right fit or the back side of the hole that was the cause. Thinking to use a threaded rod and washers along with bearing insert tool to press fit instead of hammering. I'm using the freezer method so they're slightly smaller when I sink them.
 
Thinking to use a threaded rod and washers along with bearing insert tool to press fit instead of hammering. I'm using the freezer method so they're slightly smaller when I sink them.

I agree!

I never when possible hammer in bearings. I have used the threaded rod and a socket that fits the outer bearing race to install wheel bearings with great success in the past.
Good luck with your project and glad to hear you got the old ones out :yes:
 
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