• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Answered the Question about Belt Life on My Spyder!

And no argument from me Oilcat. Well, I got the belt back on Friday aft. I did have to remove the large aluminum foot peg holder. There's 5 bolts holding that on. The 3 visible bolts are on top where it mounts to the engine (13mm) and the two hidden bolts are back by the bag mounts (10mm). When you put it back on don't tighten the bolts until you have them all started, as there may be some alignment problems. It is nice not to have to bother with the Black flywheel on the front sprocket. I removed the shift lever and though tight, I could still get the belt out. With the wheel hanging free, I was able to rotate it backwards by hand while pulling the belt outwards, and it just walked off the rear sprocket. It was then just a matter of snaking it out and snaking the new one in. I have a Kricket I got several years ago from Ron. I think it was the first thing I bought from him. I used that to set the tension and recheck it after alignment. I use a ratcheting tiedown to keep the wheel from walking while I tighten it down. I went on a 200-mile ride Saturday, and the belt performed as it should. It tracked well, no new vibrations or noises, and no parts, nuts, or bolts left over.
 
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