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Another trailer question - could a 2018 RT Ltd ride up onto this?
- Thread starter gkamer
- Start date
K80Shooter
New member
A lot would depend on the height of your towing vehicle and the height of the ball.
Just asking Y r people having issues with trailers? I’m guessing if you know how or take the time to load your toys anything would work as long as it holds the weight. Seems like a stupid issue to me. up here in Canada a curb is your best friend when it comes to tail gates on trailers, even a snow bank in the winter. also a few good pieces of 2x4’s work good also.
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canamjhb
Well-known member
It looks like the drop tail gate is about 4 feet. I doubt you will be able to directly drive your Spyder on to the trailer with the trailer level. I believe you will need additional ramps, significantly raise the trailer tongue, or other such tweaks in order to load/unload. What you'll find is when riding up to the tail gate ramp your Spyder nose will hit the ramp well before the wheels start to raise the bike..... Jim
So you may have to do something with the angle of the gate when loading, you will not know for sure how much until you try. Once you have loaded it the first time you will know what to do after that. Measure to see how wide the trailer is on the inside. I bought one like that and I measured them before I picked the one I wanted, they do very by a few inches. At 66 inches wide it will give you about 2 inches on both sides (very close). When I bought mine about 18 months the were 1200 on sale now, they want 2000 for the same trailer. I still have not set up the e track system to haul the Spyder Yet. I have 3, 5 foot sections of e-track that I will screw down. been using the trailer for other things.
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happyspyder2039
Active member
Find a speed bump or other slope area to make gate fairly level like 190243 said above. Also measure the width across fenders for clearance problems once on trailer
I'll just say no, the gate ramp has to be 4ft or better, also the width of the trailer has to be 6ft wide and the length has to be at least 10ft. with those dimensions the RT will just fit. if you decide to use this size trailer, when loading pull in straight because you have very little room to make corrections. good luck finding a 7x12 with 4ft gate...
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It would take some mods to the ramp. There are much better choices, I think, but if you're set on this one you could make it work.
In my experience, there's rarely a handy sidewalk where I load/unload the Spyder and never a snow bank!
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moparmarty
New member
I bought the same trailer last year and my 2021 spyder RTL fits just fine. You only have 2 inches of clearance on each side so just take your time. I use a wheel chock kit made by Erickson sold at walmart for the front's. Bike did not move at all. Did two trips last year one was 2200 mile round trip another was 1000miles. When I was shopping for a trailer I could not believe the prices. Big jump in price to a 6X12. Found mine at Tractor Supply. As far as the tailgate, I had no issue's. I have a level driveway, loading and unloading was a breeze.
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gkamer
Sadly passed away, December '23.
Thank you so much. Your response was incredibly helpful.
Hi Greg,
I have a single axle, 6 1/2 ft wide by 10 ft long trailer with a very similar full width tailgate/ramp on the rear. It has has 15 inch tires, but a 2500 lb axle. I have had this trailer for 25 years for hauling primarily lawn mowers, but also ATVs, motorcycles, and yes, one of my Spyders.
I have had the 2009 Spyder GS on the trailer numerous times.
As mentioned above, the is a VERY good possibility it will drag, either at the nose when going up the ramp, or, equally possible, in the middle as the Spyder goes over the transitions between the ramp and the floor of the trailer.
First thing to do is to take advantage of the level of the terrain you are loading on. Try to get the end of the ramp on higher ground to minimize the angle of approach and also the chance of the middle of the undercarriage dragging as it crosses onto the deck from the ramp.
I have done two other things to allow loading the 2009 Spyder without dragging.
1.) Place a 2x6 of 2x8 across the full width of the ramp to raise the ramp to lessen the angle. You may need to run two 2x6 pieces out a foot or so to get the front wheels up to minimize the nose dragging as it approaches the ramp
2.) Use the tongue jack on the trailer, while attached to the towing vehicle, to lift the front of the tongue, with a net effect of minimizing the Spyder to drag in the middle as it crosses from the ramp to floor of the trailer. With a light towing vehicle like my Ford Ranger, this is easy to pick up the tongue several inches while attached. Would not be as easy on a large, heavy towing vehicle.
A longer tailgate/ramp would also minimize the approach angle and lessen the chance of dragging the nose or the undercarriage...but the wind resistance to pull this type of tailgate is very significant. These small trailers with the big drive on ramp/tailgates pull hard going downhill with the tailgate up. With the tailgate removed, you don't even know its back there!
In any case, without taking at some of these steps, you will either hit the nose on the ramp during approach and also likely drag the middle as you crossover from the ramp to the trailer floor. This applies to my trailer, but other than being 1 foot narrower, the one you have pictured will likely do the same.f The extra foot of width at 6 1/2 ft gives plenty of room on each side and also better strap down options. I have a 2x6 bolted down to the floor of the trailer as a stop for the front wheels and then use four HD ratchet straps to secure it. If I was dedicating a trailer to the Spyder, I would look for a set of chocks to secure the front wheels, which would be easier and safer, but my trailer is primarily for other duty.
I have a single axle, 6 1/2 ft wide by 10 ft long trailer with a very similar full width tailgate/ramp on the rear. It has has 15 inch tires, but a 2500 lb axle. I have had this trailer for 25 years for hauling primarily lawn mowers, but also ATVs, motorcycles, and yes, one of my Spyders.
I have had the 2009 Spyder GS on the trailer numerous times.
As mentioned above, the is a VERY good possibility it will drag, either at the nose when going up the ramp, or, equally possible, in the middle as the Spyder goes over the transitions between the ramp and the floor of the trailer.
First thing to do is to take advantage of the level of the terrain you are loading on. Try to get the end of the ramp on higher ground to minimize the angle of approach and also the chance of the middle of the undercarriage dragging as it crosses onto the deck from the ramp.
I have done two other things to allow loading the 2009 Spyder without dragging.
1.) Place a 2x6 of 2x8 across the full width of the ramp to raise the ramp to lessen the angle. You may need to run two 2x6 pieces out a foot or so to get the front wheels up to minimize the nose dragging as it approaches the ramp
2.) Use the tongue jack on the trailer, while attached to the towing vehicle, to lift the front of the tongue, with a net effect of minimizing the Spyder to drag in the middle as it crosses from the ramp to floor of the trailer. With a light towing vehicle like my Ford Ranger, this is easy to pick up the tongue several inches while attached. Would not be as easy on a large, heavy towing vehicle.
A longer tailgate/ramp would also minimize the approach angle and lessen the chance of dragging the nose or the undercarriage...but the wind resistance to pull this type of tailgate is very significant. These small trailers with the big drive on ramp/tailgates pull hard going downhill with the tailgate up. With the tailgate removed, you don't even know its back there!
In any case, without taking at some of these steps, you will either hit the nose on the ramp during approach and also likely drag the middle as you crossover from the ramp to the trailer floor. This applies to my trailer, but other than being 1 foot narrower, the one you have pictured will likely do the same.f The extra foot of width at 6 1/2 ft gives plenty of room on each side and also better strap down options. I have a 2x6 bolted down to the floor of the trailer as a stop for the front wheels and then use four HD ratchet straps to secure it. If I was dedicating a trailer to the Spyder, I would look for a set of chocks to secure the front wheels, which would be easier and safer, but my trailer is primarily for other duty.
canamjhb
Well-known member
My "real world" experience..... A few years ago I rented a trailer from Tractor Supply. It was an aluminum Carry-On 6 X 10 and looked almost the same as the picture in your post. The gate ramp was 50" long. My 2014 RTL would NOT load without the assistance of additional "helper ramps" that I made from 4' long 2 X 10s. I now own my own 6 X 10 aluminum Primo trailer that has a 4' bi-fold full width ramp. I still need to utilize helper ramps to load my Goldwing trike. In my opinion, a Spyder or traditional trike requires a 6 or 7 foot ramp to safely load onto a trailer deck that is 16-18 inches high. The deck on my Primo trailer is 18 inches high. A trailer with a much lower deck MAY get by with a shorter 4 foot ramp. If you need to have a trailer you can drive on directly, look at the Aluma TK-1.
It has a 4 1/2 foot ramp and I believe the deck height is only 14 inches. But plan on parting with about 4 grand by the time you get it ready to roll with your trike aboard...... That is, if you can find one available. Good luck..... Jim
It has a 4 1/2 foot ramp and I believe the deck height is only 14 inches. But plan on parting with about 4 grand by the time you get it ready to roll with your trike aboard...... That is, if you can find one available. Good luck..... Jim
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IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
If you are really careful, AND gutsy, you can do it. Unhitch the trailer, open the ramp gate and start driving up. The weight of the Spyder will cause the trailer to tip and the ramp to floor angle will be OK. Then as you approach the balance point the trailer front will start to go down. Move slowly and the front of the trailer will drop to the ground. Keep the Spyder just ahead of the balance point until you hitch it back up to your tow vehicle, then move it forward to get weight on the tongue.
I've done this a few times loading my ATV when I wanted to get the ATV onto the trailer without bothering to hitch it to the pickup.
You can do it, but not if you are faint hearted!
I've done this a few times loading my ATV when I wanted to get the ATV onto the trailer without bothering to hitch it to the pickup.
You can do it, but not if you are faint hearted!
mecsw500
Member
How about a couple of those motocross scissor jacks under the front of each side of the trailer with some wheel chocks might do it? They usually lift 15 to 18 inches. I wonder if that would give enough angle to fix the break over problem without creating too much of an angle? They can lift up to 1500 lbs each usually even for the light weight ones. You could store them at the back of the trailer either side of the rear wheel in the corners and strap them down or create some kind of way of bolting them in. Perhaps one in the middle might be stable enough.
Painting a line down the length of the trailer bed might also help with centering the thing as you drive it on, or a flag in the middle at the front to aim for. I'd have to measure the break angle of the Spyder with a rider on it to see if you could jack it up enough to work with a 4 foot rear gate. I suspect the trailer jack that comes on the trailer might not be strong enough to take the weight of the Spyder and rider if it got a little off center causing it to fold one way or another. They are usually pretty flimsy when extended to the limit. You might also be able to do it with a couple of RV trailer leveling jacks bolted or welded upside down to the underside of the front of the trailer. There might be enough ground clearance to fit them in.
I was going to get effectively the same kind of trailer in the spring, so I had exactly the same kind of questions. This would be my way of at least investigating the issue. I think tipping the bed is the answer. I had my Spyder recovered by a car recovery flatbed and I drove it on when it was sloped at quite an angle. It was easy to drive on, even with the wrecked tire and that was quite a sloping angle.
Painting a line down the length of the trailer bed might also help with centering the thing as you drive it on, or a flag in the middle at the front to aim for. I'd have to measure the break angle of the Spyder with a rider on it to see if you could jack it up enough to work with a 4 foot rear gate. I suspect the trailer jack that comes on the trailer might not be strong enough to take the weight of the Spyder and rider if it got a little off center causing it to fold one way or another. They are usually pretty flimsy when extended to the limit. You might also be able to do it with a couple of RV trailer leveling jacks bolted or welded upside down to the underside of the front of the trailer. There might be enough ground clearance to fit them in.
I was going to get effectively the same kind of trailer in the spring, so I had exactly the same kind of questions. This would be my way of at least investigating the issue. I think tipping the bed is the answer. I had my Spyder recovered by a car recovery flatbed and I drove it on when it was sloped at quite an angle. It was easy to drive on, even with the wrecked tire and that was quite a sloping angle.