I had a buddy come by the other day and he asked how my spyder was doing I told him fine, no problems. Then he asked me how my rear tire looked. I have about 6000 miles on 2014 Limited. Well to my surprise the tire is wearing in the middle, to the point I'm going to have to replace it. I check the air pressure all the time and keep it between 28-30 psi. I think this is bull#%^+. You pay over 30 grand for a bike and have to spend another $300.00+ on a new tire at 6000 miles. I've had Goldwing trikes in the past, the front tire wears quicker than the two rear tires but not at that low of mileage. I know there's been a lot others having the same problem, but it doesn't make it right. I feel either BRP or the tire manufacturer needs to fix this problem, even to the point of paying for a new tire. Sorry to be ranting but I think this just isn't right. I like my spyder but if I keep having to put tires on it all the time I'm thinking about getting rid of it.
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another tire issue
- Thread starter limited14
- Start date
trikermutha
New member
Yep my first tire was replaced at 5800 miles and was a softer compound as I suspect your was too.
They have changed back and you will get more miles from the rear.
Now look up tire threads and you will see what others have posted and are using for tires...:thumbup: You will see this topic has been brought up many- many times.
They have changed back and you will get more miles from the rear.
Now look up tire threads and you will see what others have posted and are using for tires...:thumbup: You will see this topic has been brought up many- many times.
Pampurrs
Pragmatic Member
Your rear tire should be 28 PSI. I think the excessive wear in the center may be partly due to over inflating.
You also may have gotten part of that extra soft batch of tires that many have discussed here.
I had over 14,000 miles on my rear tire when I switched to a car tire. I kept it at a constant 28 PSI at all times. The Ride-On I use helps to extend the life of the tire also.
I think I may have gotten the harder compound tire, which would help to explain the difference in life between mine and yours.
As many have stated in other threads, Kenda is an inferior tire. Time to switch to better quality.
Pam
You also may have gotten part of that extra soft batch of tires that many have discussed here.
I had over 14,000 miles on my rear tire when I switched to a car tire. I kept it at a constant 28 PSI at all times. The Ride-On I use helps to extend the life of the tire also.
I think I may have gotten the harder compound tire, which would help to explain the difference in life between mine and yours.
As many have stated in other threads, Kenda is an inferior tire. Time to switch to better quality.
Pam
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Highwayman2013
New member
How can anyone be surprised by now that Kenda rear tires on spyders wear in the middle. Put a good quality car tire on the rear and ride on.
PistonBlown
Active member
The Kenda on the back wear quickly but at the same time offer a poor level of grip. The Kenda's also always wear in the centre regardless of pressure. Check out some of the (many) threads on this site for suggestions on better and cheaper rear tires.
My personal favourites on my RS are Toyo Proxes T1R's, wear wise they are only a small improvement but performance/grip is great. However for an RT you're probably looking for endurance so others will be able to tell you what to go for to get that.
My personal favourites on my RS are Toyo Proxes T1R's, wear wise they are only a small improvement but performance/grip is great. However for an RT you're probably looking for endurance so others will be able to tell you what to go for to get that.
Ex-Rocket
Well-known member
Ok Sam , we get your point. Since you have sold your Spyder and now own a Honda whatever model it is, its time to bash the Honda Forum and tell them how bad Honda bikes are. If you don't have something positive to say here, then I think its time to go. I'm just getting tired of all your negitive remarks. It really has no place or value in here.
JayBros
Well-known member
I have had two of the older, soft compound, rear tires on my Spyder and now have the harder, actually older compound that was dropped until after the 2814 mfg date. I've religiously kept 28 in the rear until the past two weeks when I dropped to 27. I immediately noticed a softer ride with just one pound less. I have replaced two tires when the center wear bars were flush as I don't want to risk hydroplaning and am, of course, very interested to see how much mileage I will get out of the current compound. I'm also prone to aggressive riding in the mountains because I bought the Spyder for fun. FISHDO! YMMV.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Typical. There is no way to keep a 2 ply tread tire from wearing in the middle. It's a given. Weak tread bands not only allow the tire to bulge in the middle when inflated. Centrifugal force at speed also acts to overwhelm the weak tread area causing a balloon effect. To me, it's a no brainer to go to a well made, less expensive car tire.
A car tire will have a 4 ply tread area. This keeps the tread flat against the road. When riding on the Kenda at speed you're only getting maybe 3" - 4" of contact. The rest of your tire is spinning in the breeze. Not a comforting thought if you have to make an emergency stop.
As you can see, I got my monies worth out of this Toyo Proxes TR1 tire (Left). Notice how much tread I put on the pavement compared to the Kenda (Right). The Toyo maintains a flatter tread area so you get nearly 100% contact with the pavement. As you can see, not so with the Kenda. The Red area is how much contact you have with the pavement at lower speeds. The Green is all you have at freeway speeds.
I know there are Kenda fans. But I wonder if they understand the full story.
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trikermutha
New member
So what is the new tire in the picture. (Maker)
trikermutha
New member
Typical. There is no way to keep a 2 ply tread tire from wearing in the middle. It's a given. Weak tread bands not only allow the tire to bulge in the middle when inflated. Centrifugal force at speed also acts to overwhelm the weak tread area causing a balloon effect. To me, it's a no brainer to go to a well made, less expensive car tire.
A car tire will have a 4 ply tread area. This keeps the tread flat against the road. When riding on the Kenda at speed you're only getting maybe 3" - 4" of contact. The rest of your tire is spinning in the breeze. Not a comforting thought if you have to make an emergency stop.
As you can see, I got my monies worth out of this Toyo Proxes TR1 tire (Left). Notice how much tread I put on the pavement compared to the Kenda (Right). The Toyo maintains a flatter tread area so you get nearly 100% contact with the pavement. As you can see, not so with the Kenda. The Red area is how much contact you have with the pavement at lower speeds. The Green is all you have at freeway speeds.
I know there are Kenda fans. But I wonder if they understand the full story.
How many miles on the TR1?
How many miles on the TR1? How do the handle the cooler weather?
Chupaca
New member
Let's see....
By now I would think everyone here know of the problem they had with the Kenda in early 2014. They have since gone back to the original compound and I for one (maybe the only one) have not had a problem with them front or back. I have had two rears and two sets of fronts. I am currently on my third rear, though I want to give the Aracnid a try and it is doing well. I am now convinced that it is where (geographically) you ryde that is determining much of the wear differences...and knowing where the wear limit blocks are....jmo mind you...as for center wear, you tube drag racing and watch what happens to the rear tires...:yikes: air pressure is only part of it.....
By now I would think everyone here know of the problem they had with the Kenda in early 2014. They have since gone back to the original compound and I for one (maybe the only one) have not had a problem with them front or back. I have had two rears and two sets of fronts. I am currently on my third rear, though I want to give the Aracnid a try and it is doing well. I am now convinced that it is where (geographically) you ryde that is determining much of the wear differences...and knowing where the wear limit blocks are....jmo mind you...as for center wear, you tube drag racing and watch what happens to the rear tires...:yikes: air pressure is only part of it.....
Bobleach45
New member
28 psi is overinflated in my opinion. I had it there and dropped to 26, especially in The FL heat coupled with the heat from the exhaust. Mine was changed at 9925 miles before I bought it due to a slice in the tire . Have put on 12,500 mi and by the looks and measurement with tire tread gauge I'm anticipating getting 19-20. Can't complain about the original fronts. At 22,500 miles now and expect I will change at 27-30 and I never go all the way to the wear bars. This doesn't mean I won't try something else. That is something I'll still have to ponder. I run the fronts at 17 psi.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
And remember that the blocks you see in the center are tread support blocks not wear bars.Those are on the sides.
Bob Denman
New member
Actually: 6,000 miles out of your OEM was about what we've all come to see.The new OEM tire is reportedly doing MUCH better, as do the aftermarket choices. :thumbup:
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Dan McNally
New member
This probably pertains to your situation http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...n-tire-compounds&highlight=tire+wear+compound
STELLING MAN
Member
TIRE MILEAGE
On my 2013 RT-S I got 10,125 mi on the original tire, I went with the Kumho and It's working out great..
On my 2013 RT-S I got 10,125 mi on the original tire, I went with the Kumho and It's working out great..
Gunkandpudge
New member
TIRE
Got almost 8000 on my original tires and all three look very good
Got almost 8000 on my original tires and all three look very good
Fatcycledaddy
Active member
I had over 9,000 on my factory tire, I had about 2/32" of tread left and think i could have gotten a few more thousand miles out of it. I was leaving on the trip to Utah towing the camper so I thought I had better change it, cheaper to do it at home than have to try to do it on the road.
$98.00 for the new tire, $8.00 to dismount and remount the new tire, 1/2 hour of my time to change it.
1991 Yamaha Venture Royale, $275.00 for the tire, and $25.00 to dismount remount and balance, and 1 hour of my time to change it.
Spyder rear tire 1/3 of the cost of my other cycle tires.
$98.00 for the new tire, $8.00 to dismount and remount the new tire, 1/2 hour of my time to change it.
1991 Yamaha Venture Royale, $275.00 for the tire, and $25.00 to dismount remount and balance, and 1 hour of my time to change it.
Spyder rear tire 1/3 of the cost of my other cycle tires.
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