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Another RPM question

wengerda

New member
I have read in a few forums, that what I was told by one of the Can Am Technicians from a dealer could be incorrect. He told me that with my 2016 F3 Limited SE6 I should shift at least 3500 RPM's to each gear (when possible) if I want to keep my transmission for a long time. Comments? Thanks.
 
:banghead: Bullfeathers!
The new hydraulic clutch engagement setup insures a full lock-up as low as 2,000 rpm.
The old centrifugal system that was used on the SE5 transmissions didn't start to luck, until much later. It cost some riders a bunch of burned clutch plates. nojoke
 
There is a sweet spot on the SE for sure and for me and mine its right around there however closer to about 4000 RPMs mark. I think that was pretty good advice but its hard to shift at that rate simply because when your riding it you kind of want to ride it aggressive every time, or at least I do and there is no way I can maintain the 4000 RPM although I try.
 
:banghead: Bullfeathers!
The new hydraulic clutch engagement setup insures a full lock-up as low as 2,000 rpm.
The old centrifugal system that was used on the SE5 transmissions didn't start to luck, until much later. It cost some riders a bunch of burned clutch plates. nojoke

Thank you that is exactly what I read but I wanted to make sure. :)
 
I'm an advocate of "Low & Slow" for shifting the SE-6...
2nd & 3rd gears get grabbed at 2,000 rpm...
4th, 5th, and 6th gears get "brought to the ballpark" at 2,500 rpm.

The bike never bogs, and it always pulls strong and clean... :thumbup:

But a lot of folks like to shift at higher rpm levels, and the bike likes them also! :D
 
rpm

I don't agree with any set (low side) rpm to shift. There are to many variables to consider - are you going uphill under a load - are you riding in the middle of a group?
For those that can't "feel" what their ride is doing I believe in being slightly on the "high" side. In almost all circumstances I find that 25 to 35 hundred rpm will cover you.
Others will not agree - but this has worked for me for over 60 years driving. And as most of us here - I still have a lot to learn.
My 2 cents worth,
Tip
 
SWEET SPOT

There is a sweet spot on the SE for sure and for me and mine its right around there however closer to about 4000 RPMs mark. I think that was pretty good advice but its hard to shift at that rate simply because when your riding it you kind of want to ride it aggressive every time, or at least I do and there is no way I can maintain the 4000 RPM although I try.
jmho .......... But from as far back as I can remember the term " SWEET SPOT " has always referred to where the Engine's - POWER BAND produced the most performance ..... which was a combination of HP & Torque. I believe the OP's mechanic was talking about the clutch/transmission life and He was wrong !!!! ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
2014-Spyder-RT-dyno-chart.jpg

Some of BRP's literature, that compares the powerbands of the 1330, and the 998... :2thumbs:
While they do peak at about the same rpm level: the 1330 has a whole lot more on tap in the lower ranges...
At 2,000 rpm: it almost matches the 998 at it's peak!
 
:banghead: Bullfeathers!
The new hydraulic clutch engagement setup insures a full lock-up as low as 2,000 rpm.
The old centrifugal system that was used on the SE5 transmissions didn't start to luck, until much later. It cost some riders a bunch of burned clutch plates. nojoke

You're on an RT... the F3 is just begging to be ridden like it's stolen. I can't imagine ever having the RPM's down to 2,000 when shifting... or basically anytime... ;-)
 
:D I NEVER said that it's for everybody... :D
What I've said, is that the bike is perfectly capable of loafing along at a sedate pace! nojoke
 
Another "hot button" topic for sure. Sadly, you cannot count on what most people say. "They" always get credit. :roflblack::roflblack:

Basic information--and then you do it "your" way from there.

Two cylinder: Likes to be driven and shifted in the 5000 - 5500 rpm range. This is the one that "they" are saying that the clutch will get issues if not shifted and operated above 3,500 at least 60% of the time. It has five gears but the 5th is like an overdrive and usually does not come into play until 65 mph or higher. I drove the Hana Highway on Maui (about 50 miles) in first gear the whole time. Speeds 30 and less. This one has a 9,500 redline--but I have never been there.

Three cylinder: Likes to be driven and shifted in the 3000 - 3500 range. At 65 mph in sixth--this one purrs along at 3,500. This one has a 7,500 redline--but I have never been there.

Each version has a "sweet spot" for shifting for what YOU think is the optimum. Go for it, and enjoy the ride. :yes:
 
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Confused

I am kind of confused on this. I thought we had this discussion before. On the Dos and Dont's:

The “ECO” mode shift coach suggests shifting at the following rpm’s:
1st to 2nd: 1,800 rpm’s
2nd to 3rd: 1,950 rpm’s
3rd and up: 2,200 rpm’s

From another posted forum some would shift:
1st to 2nd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
2nd to 3rd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
3rd and up:
2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s

Another individual stated to shift at:
1st to 2nd: 3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
2nd to 3rd:
3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
3rd and up:
3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s

What would be the recommendation for shifting for new Spyders?


 
Top end for me!

I have a 2015 F3s sm6 and I wind it right up to 6000 or 7000 rpms when I have the room. I bought 10,000rpms and I aint afraid to use 'em! This is AFTER the engine is warm and I do keep my oil fresh.
 
As noted from my post on this topic I found 4000 RPMs made shifting smooth. 3000 made hesitation annoying as my head would bounce so to speak. Too argumentative as a topic to discuss further, my thoughts.
 
I have a 2015 F3s sm6 and I wind it right up to 6000 or 7000 rpms when I have the room. I bought 10,000rpms and I aint afraid to use 'em! This is AFTER the engine is warm and I do keep my oil fresh.
You might have paid for a tachometer with a 10,000 rpm range...
But the 1330 will only rev to 8,100 rpm. nojoke
(7,500 rpm: if it's in neutral, and just getting it's juices buzzed a bit! :D)
 
I am kind of confused on this. I thought we had this discussion before. On the Dos and Dont's:

The “ECO” mode shift coach suggests shifting at the following rpm’s:
1st to 2nd: 1,800 rpm’s
2nd to 3rd: 1,950 rpm’s
3rd and up: 2,200 rpm’s

From another posted forum some would shift:
1st to 2nd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
2nd to 3rd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
3rd and up:
2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s

Another individual stated to shift at:
1st to 2nd: 3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
2nd to 3rd:
3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
3rd and up:
3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s

What would be the recommendation for shifting for new Spyders?



This is actually a good question! :clap:
The amount of information out there is staggering... :shocked:
The key on ANY new engine, is to "avoid" full throttle, and heavy loads..., and vary your throttle settings.
(Don't let is drone on and on and on, at just one rpm level!)

Keep this in mind, and you and your bike will always be best friends! :cheers:
 
As noted from my post on this topic I found 4000 RPMs made shifting smooth. 3000 made hesitation annoying as my head would bounce so to speak. Too argumentative as a topic to discuss further, my thoughts.

Exactly. I rarely look at the rpms.... I just know when I want to shift based on the kind of riding I'm doing... which is often in 'bat outta hell mode'.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Huh,8100rpm ya say......now I want a refund!!! That must be the point where it seems to run out of steam in 2nd gear so I gotta grab 3rd. I don't look at gauges much, hate to take my eyes off the road.
 
I am kind of confused on this. I thought we had this discussion before. On the Dos and Dont's:

The “ECO” mode shift coach suggests shifting at the following rpm’s:
1st to 2nd: 1,800 rpm’s
2nd to 3rd: 1,950 rpm’s
3rd and up: 2,200 rpm’s

From another posted forum some would shift:
1st to 2nd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
2nd to 3rd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
3rd and up:
2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s

Another individual stated to shift at:
1st to 2nd: 3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
2nd to 3rd:
3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
3rd and up:
3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s

What would be the recommendation for shifting for new Spyders?



Another "hot button" issue. Most of us do not like ECO mode--period. I find looking for the green arrow distracting. I don't agree with the shift points. Used it faithfully for one tank of gas. Got about 1 mpg more.

They can keep ECO mode. Give me back the electronic activated frunk switch. :roflblack:
 
Huh,8100rpm ya say......now I want a refund!!! That must be the point where it seems to run out of steam in 2nd gear so I gotta grab 3rd. I don't look at gauges much, hate to take my eyes off the road.
It's not actually running "out of steam"; you're up against the rev-limiter! nojoke
(It feels like it just fell flat; doesn't it?)
 
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