Another question for the gurus

[NancysToy]

The procedure in the manual is to disconnect the electrical connector for the purge valve and then hot-wire it and listen for it to open and close. I've done that (carefully so you don't short anything out -- if you have heavy fumes I'd be careful of the spark) and it makes a loud, audible click. That's no guarantee it's opening or closing 100% but at least that it's working. Then I believe there's a second procedure involving BUDS which checks if the computer is telling it to open at the right time. Even though mine checked out OK on hot-wiring and the dealer said OK on BUDS, in frustration I replaced the valve and canister. Didn't make any difference. I have a 2011 so the problem is not as bad as you describe but I'm not happy, either. For fun, I cut the old canister apart and it was perfect inside -- full of nice, dry activated charcoal. So I'm stymied right now, too.

If I remember correctly, there is also a vacuum test for leakage. If not, there should be. That would be aimed more at performance problems however, not the failure to adequately evacuate the canister.

 

[DrewNJ]

From what I could tell the purge valve pulses or cycles. It's most active at idle, decel and light throttle cruise. Not really rpm specific. Which ironically coincides with a lot of the closed loop fueling setup.
From what I understand cycling of the purge valve has been made more aggressive over the years since 08'. Probably due to the canister issues.

 

[DrewNJ]

IMHO- The fix for the canister issues is to simply remove it, extend the vent, and plug the purge. The procedure and results are VERY well documented in multiple threads that date back 5+ years. I can't recall anyone having any issues with the system removed/bypassed.

If your worried about your warranty it's very simple to keep the components and put them back on if you ever have to deal with a failure that may involve review of this system.

Also, I would imagine that modifying the system including putting a T inline would be viewed by the dealer as no different than removing the system entirely in regards to any warranty issues with the related components.

Personally, I took off the canister and associated hoses and threw them in a box with about 50 miles on my RS. When April rolls around (end of my warranty) that box and all of those components are going in the trash.

 

[SNOOPY]

:yikes::roflblack:

.

 

[3 Wheel Addict]

From what I could tell the purge valve pulses or cycles. It's most active at idle, decel and light throttle cruise. Not really rpm specific. Which ironically coincides with a lot of the closed loop fueling setup.
From what I understand cycling of the purge valve has been made more aggressive over the years since 08'. Probably due to the canister issues.

I don't know but my dealer told me that the purge valve does not open till the engine is above 5000 rpm. They said it has something to do with that rpm range and the engines ability to burn off the excessive vapor by keeping the catalytic converter hot enough to do that. They have also told me wrong stuff before though. However most auto don't open a purge valve till the engine is at cruise rpms, could be something to it??

 

[TexasSpyder]

I don't know but my dealer told me that the purge valve does not open till the engine is above 5000 rpm. They said it has something to do with that rpm range and the engines ability to burn off the excessive vapor by keeping the catalytic converter hot enough to do that. They have also told me wrong stuff before though. However most auto don't open a purge valve till the engine is at cruise rpms, could be something to it??

How would a cat bypass be affected if at all? Would the vapors just not get burned due to no cat conv?

J. D.

 

[DrewNJ]

The cat isn't going to play a part at all. The vapor is routed to the throttlebodies just below the butterflies.
This is also why blocking off the purge Richens things up a bit since your blocking off an unmetered air supply to the motor.

Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk

 

[BajaRon]

IMHO- The fix for the canister issues is to simply remove it, extend the vent, and plug the purge. The procedure and results are VERY well documented in multiple threads that date back 5+ years. I can't recall anyone having any issues with the system removed/bypassed.

If your worried about your warranty it's very simple to keep the components and put them back on if you ever have to deal with a failure that may involve review of this system.

Also, I would imagine that modifying the system including putting a T inline would be viewed by the dealer as no different than removing the system entirely in regards to any warranty issues with the related components.

Personally, I took off the canister and associated hoses and threw them in a box with about 50 miles on my RS. When April rolls around (end of my warranty) that box and all of those components are going in the trash.

I removed my canister early on and I've had warranty work done on my Spyder since. No one ever said a word. Not a guarantee for everyone else, but one man's experience.

 

[Deanna777]

Please explain the purge valve operation. When does it open? Does the bike pop a code if it doesn't? Thanks in advance :thumbup:

What is a purge valve operation? Deanna777

 

[DrewNJ]

I removed my canister early on and I've had warranty work done on my Spyder since. No one ever said a word. Not a guarantee for everyone else, but one man's experience.

Me too, but it seems like the biggest worry with this mod is voiding a warranty. When I had my water pump shaft/seals replaced they basically had to pull that entire area apart where the canister resides to get to it. Dealer never said a word and upon inspection after I got it back, the tech even put it all back the way I had it.

However, I've had that box of emissions junk for almost 2 years now. Might as well keep it for a few more months just in case. It doesn't eat......haha

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