• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Another Oil Change Thread for the 1330s

WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT

:roflblack: He must have forgot.

Dear Ann, if you go back a few of your posts and check .......YOU gave me permission to go back to using them..............Pa-leeeeeeeeeeeeeze make up your mind :dontknow::gaah::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.....................................Mike :thumbup:
 
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THEN WAS THEN ......BUT NOW IS NOW

Hey Mike, Used to use ROTELLA in my Diesel Pushers for years and it was a Diesel Oil. Went to wikipedia and it says Rotella "C" is for diesels only and "S" rating is for gas only. It states further that ROTELLA "C" is not recommended for any engine that has a Catylitic Converter. Just thought you might want to know. Must be something about Emissions. It did state further that some cars and motorcycles use it. Now don't flame me, just pointing this out in the interest of information and knowledge.;) If you do I will report you to "Ann" and tell her you are using colors and emoticons again.

Jack
Check Post # 44 for better info..........Thanks Highwayman 2013 :thumbup:
I'm not using that formulation............................and thanks for watching my back :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:......Mike :agree:
 
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Dear Ann, if you go back a few of your and check .......YOU gave me permission to go back to using them..............Pa-leeeeeeeeeeeeeze make up your mind :dontknow::gaah::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.....................................Mike :thumbup:

I guess it was me that forgot!!!
 
:shocked: Michael...
You were doing so well; what happened?? :dontknow:

Did they change your medication again?? :roflblack: :joke:
 
No cat, no problem. Unfortunately I still cant use the Rotella in my 998.

The Rotella T6 is rated for both gasoline and diesel use. See the spec sheet for the API codes.
 
?????????????????????????

:shocked: Michael...
You were doing so well; what happened?? :dontknow:

Did they change your medication again?? :roflblack: :joke:

Robert you often complain about comments made by others .....BUT NOT THE " DUMBA** " ONES YOU MAKE :banghead::banghead:....Please just leave me alone .......Mike :pray:
 
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I have been unable to find any full synthetic 5w40, non SL rated, oil in the Portland area. 10w40, 10w50, 0w40, 0w50 yes - even those are mostly SL rated.

I found a dealer that could ORDER 5w40 Amsoil, at $13/quart... but only in case (6q) quantities - so I'd have to order 12q to get enough for an oil change.

A simple solution, go to the Amsoil website and become a preferred customer -- 20 bucks for 6 months I believe. Then you can order oil directly -- you can order a case and extra quart or 2 to get what you need. -- dropped shipped to your door or place of business -- the cost is less than 13 dollars a quart after all is said and done.
 
A simple solution, go to the Amsoil website and become a preferred customer -- 20 bucks for 6 months I believe. Then you can order oil directly -- you can order a case and extra quart or 2 to get what you need. -- dropped shipped to your door or place of business -- the cost is less than 13 dollars a quart after all is said and done.

Probably the easiest way is go to your BRP dealer and buy what is suggested in the OM. If you change oil at 3000-12,300 and every 9300 miles in between the cost will average out and maybe be less than what you are gaining finding cheaper oil and changing it every 3000-4000 miles. JMO

A lot less headaches and frustration. When going through life and you want to be in the know, keep your eye upon the donut and not upon the hole. i.e. Focus on the big picture not the piss ants.

I think Baja Ron sells the complete oil change kit including all the O rings and gaskets for less than $80. Now that is a bargin for all you DIYS's.

I just drop mine off at "Ride Now" and have it done for $390. This includes an overall check from my Tech Scott. The only person to do any work on my Spyders. I know it is a lot of money, but at least I will have something to gripe about at coffee in the morning. After getting over this I stop to think $390 for every 9300 miles is probably a bargin. Why make life more difficult than it is. You start thinking this way at 75.

I know everyone has a different opinion on oil and when to change it. Pretty hard to go wrong with the recommendations the people who built it and warranty it suggest.

Cost of BRP oil (1 gal plus 1 quart) and $60.42 for everything else needed is $123.91 plus tax. This does not include the tools to do it with. If you are changing your oil every 3000 miles you are spending the same amount as myself, plus the cost of tools, ibuprofen and a possible visit to the Chiropractor following the procedure.:joke:

Jack
 
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I change every 9300 miles now after the original and I like that so that the bike is down or in the shop for maintenance overtime i turn around the way it was on my 2010 and 2012. The oil looks great at 9300 miles. still remarkably clear
 
I change every 9300 miles now after the original and I like that so that the bike is down or in the shop for maintenance overtime i turn around the way it was on my 2010 and 2012. The oil looks great at 9300 miles. still remarkably clear


Sorry Doc, but i don't understand what you just said??? could you say it again differently??


Cruzr Joe
 
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