• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

And that's why I don't trust manufacturers recommendations!

M

mandytuning

New member
A lesson I learned on 32years as a technician is don't trust manufacturers maintenance intervals for their products. Do you really believe they care about your purchase? Do you really believe they make the better oil for you bike or car? The reality is, as soon you get out of the dealer they don't even want to honor the warranty and you trust this (**) mfg? My Can Am X3 RR's fluids were changed at 100 miles, front diff, gearbox, and engine oil - scared the heck of me when I saw the first 3 seconds of draining oil was pure grey oil! I changed it 3 times before their recommended 1000k. This Spyder oil is from 1059 mile; there's a lot of metal in the magnet and brass in the filter. I don't want that in my engine for 3k. I prefer to make 2 oil changes in that period. Also, BRP oil foams like crazy just by draining it, I can't imagine what it'd be like when it hit the crankshaft at 7000rpm. Amsoil is what my money buys.
 

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Hope you are not trusting the engineers who designed the cosmetics; like the black hole trunks on the pre-2020 models. If they are the same ones who wrote the maintenance specs they should not be allowed to reproduce. Our society is getting dumb enough on its own.
 
The same engineers who wrote the manual... one part says 5 qt; in another it says 5.5
qt. They can't even write a manual correctly!
 
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just wait till you read more AND understand what is factual and what is not. these manual's have been copied from different models and years. you have to figure out what applies to YOUR model!!!
 
cruisinTX said:
Hope you are not trusting the engineers who designed the cosmetics; like the black hole trunks on the pre-2020 models. If they are the same ones who wrote the maintenance specs they should not be allowed to reproduce. Our society is getting dumb enough on its own.
Click to expand...

The mechanical engineers don't design body parts. That's done by design engineers. They don't design the production line either. Or the containers used to ship Spyders in.

In fact, the engine is designed by Rotax engineers (not Can-Am), the electronics by Bosch engineers, the brakes by Brembo, etc.

So, which engineers in particular don't you trust?
 
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I doubt that BRP writes anything. Like most other parts the manual is outsourced to the lowest bidder for reproduction and much is lost in the translation.
 
UtahPete said:
The mechanical engineers don't design body parts. That's done by design engineers. They don't design the production line either. Or the containers used to ship Spyders in.

In fact, the engine is designed by Rotax engineers (not Can-Am), the electronics by Bosch engineers, the brakes by Brembo, etc.

So, which engineers in particular don't you trust?
Click to expand...

none of them
 
Navydad said:
I doubt that BRP writes anything. Like most other parts the manual is outsourced to the lowest bidder for reproduction and much is lost in the translation.
Click to expand...

It is STILL a BRP responsibilty to have accurate documents out to the public - especially their customers.
So............where are the proof readers ???????????????
 
I use whatever the manufacturer says, and change it as often as they say, as long as it is under warranty. Once the warranty is gone, I typically use the best that I can find. I don't want to give the manufacturer any reason to say that anything that I did caused it to void the warranty. In fact, If I have a good service department (which I fortunately do), I use them for all service while it is under warranty.
 
Without having a proper oil analysis performed by a competent lab, you have no way of knowing what is actually going on inside ANY engine. You should have that oil analyzed to see what that metal is and where it came from. You could have bigger problems than brand of oil.
 
I trust them - mine came with 3 years warranty and the amount of money that had to be spent by BRP on replacement bits during that time was money I didn't have to pay.

I've got a '17 RTL - it's almost 3000km past the 75000 km service interval (I can't stay off the thing for 4 weeks while I wait for the booking date to come around) and my oil looks just fine. Are you sure you don't have another issue?

I also concur with Jetfixer - we have an industrial lab for lubricants here in my area and its impressive wat they can tell you about what is going on inside a engine/compressor/gearbox/hydraulic system.
 
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What machine is the filter picture from? It doesn't look like a Spyder filter. How hot was the oil when you drained it? Hot oil will bubble like that.
 
Idaho, I think it is from a 1330. If you look at the second picture it shows "Rotax" on the side of the engine and from the openness of the engine I would say F3
 
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