• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

an unobtainable pipe dream for raising my RT

My guess is no, but here is a question. Is it safe to jack up the back of a Spyder using the trailer hitch?

I've done it, but the Spyder is not stable as it wants to move sideways and cause the jack to tip over. There's no easy way to lock the front wheels in place to make the bike more steady.
 
It’s actually in the BRP workshop manual not to jack under the shock, Martin, but there are a number of riders who do it without issue. Maybe if you Jack directly under the centre of the shock, BRP are concerned you can bend the bolt in some way, but I can’t imagine it would hurt if you spread the load across the whole shock base including arms.

Oh, and Peter, it’s the removal of the bolts under the right floorboard that causes the issues for we “poor old buggers” with the Big Blue.:thumbup:.

Pete

Maybe it's a difference between the later models and mine/the earlier models I see more of, but I don't remove those bolts, or the floorboard... :dontknow:
 
I just use a set of car ramps and drive up on them. I get about 8-10 inches raise, easy. Of course as Pete said you still have to get down on the floor to do the work, but the pre-work is easy enough.

I do exactly the same. Then I use a 2x6 under the rear shock jack up the rear tire and set it on a 3rd car ramp. Very stable and very safe.
 
It’s actually in the BRP workshop manual not to jack under the shock, Martin, but there are a number of riders who do it without issue. Maybe if you Jack directly under the centre of the shock, BRP are concerned you can bend the bolt in some way, but I can’t imagine it would hurt if you spread the load across the whole shock base including arms.

Which is exactly what the workshop manual says. Position the jack so the entire shock support is cupped by the jack. Don't jack directly on the shock itself.
 
Maybe it's a difference between the later models and mine/the earlier models I see more of, but I don't remove those bolts, or the floorboard... :dontknow:

Yes, the floorboard removal is required for the ‘20+ RT models, Peter:thumbup:

Pete
 
Which is exactly what the workshop manual says. Position the jack so the entire shock support is cupped by the jack. Don't jack directly on the shock itself.

Well that’s a worry, Idaho…….my brain works exactly the same way as BRP, and I can’t even speak French :2thumbs:

Pete
 
Yes, the floorboard removal is required for the ‘20+ RT models, Peter:thumbup:

Pete

Thanks Pete. And the "safety bracket" on big blue bolts into one of the floorboard attachment holes to help stabilize the 2020+ Spyder when lifted.
 
It’s actually in the BRP workshop manual not to jack under the shock, Martin, but there are a number of riders who do it without issue. Maybe if you Jack directly under the centre of the shock, BRP are concerned you can bend the bolt in some way, but I can’t imagine it would hurt if you spread the load across the whole shock base including arms.

Oh, and Peter, it’s the removal of the bolts under the right floorboard that causes the issues for we “poor old buggers” with the Big Blue.:thumbup:.

Pete

:agree: I use a reg. car jack under the rear shock .... However, I put a piece of wood six inches wide on the jack pad first .... this spans the "shock bolt mounting tabs" .....Mike :thumbup:
 
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I follow Pegasus' idea, with the car ramps, put a throw rug under them so they don't slide. Just break out the knee pads and have at it. I also have the dreaded knee problem, and find something to grab and pull myself up after I'm done under there.
 
I follow Pegasus' idea, with the car ramps, put a throw rug under them so they don't slide. Just break out the knee pads and have at it. I also have the dreaded knee problem, and find something to grab and pull myself up after I'm done under there.

I have the same issue getting up. I've found that if I roll over and lay flat on my stomach, keep my legs straight and my toes from slipping, I can use my hands and arms to push myself up and off the floor and stand up straight every time. The only time it doesn't work is when you find yourself down and on the ice. Stay off the dam ice!
 
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