Gray Ghost
New member
No (the pdf file was too large to post, the jpg was the only way it would fit). Yes.
Looking back at the items included in the kit, there is an AAPTS along with harness, mount, etc., so it was more than just moving it.
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Ambient temp sensor?
- Thread starter Magdave
- Start date
Looking back at the items included in the kit, there is an AAPTS along with harness, mount, etc., so it was more than just moving it.
Bob Denman
New member
But this looks like a pretty good start... Thanks! :thumbup:
Magdave
New member
I guess it is all academic the kit did not work to reduce the engine heat. Jahberst dumped his 2013 for a 2014 after the kit test run, Gray Ghost posted a temp chart that was within a degree or 2 of what mine currently runs and showed boiling gas at almost every fill. :dontknow:
jcthorne
Well-known member
There is no magic bullet for the heat problem. Several things have helped and added up, my bike is MUCH better than the way BRP built it. I still feel this is worth pursuing and measuring its effect on its own merit. No it will not SOLVE the problem on its own, but I think its worthy of looking at for a partial solution. Obviously so does BRP. I truly believe Jahberst was ready to be rid of his 2013 problems regardless of what they did. Can't blame him. But I would not base my decision on this mod on his comments.
Magdave
New member
But I would on Ghost's chart View attachment Can Am Heat.pdf
Gray Ghost
New member
The upfront is that running the same 1400 mile route with and without the heat kit I roughly averaged out about a 3 degree drop in temp. But the kit was more than just the AAPTS. My own opinion is that the header shields probably had a good part of the decrease.
Magdave
New member
Jet Hot coated headers have been one of my suggestions from the beginning if BRP really wants to cool the 998 down. :thumbup:That and a fully insulated gas tank + Cat shield. I would love to see a chart like yours from a run like yours on a Spyder equipped that way. :bowdown:
jcthorne
Well-known member
I respectfully disagree that tuning alone will reduce the heat load on the un-insulated fuel tank to the point that fuel vapors will not be forced out the the vents while idling in traffic or after shutdown in an enclosed garage.
It WILL help. I agree there, but its not enough on its own.
opiewhan
New member
10 DEGREES HOT
Seems that mine is about 10 degrees warmer than actual temp too/...:dontknow::helpsmilie:
Seems that mine is about 10 degrees warmer than actual temp too/...:dontknow::helpsmilie:
jcthorne
Well-known member
PMK
Active member
This is a portion of making things the best they could be.
The heat is coming from somewhere.
Does the engine have a good tune for the AFR through the entire rpm and load range? If the tuning is good, and I have heard JC and others comment it runs lean, then my own experience from tuning other vehicles would have me dial in the engine for proper AFR. Then to act as a heat barrier to control radiant heat from a properly tuned engine, your above items would compliment the properly running engine.
I know I support the heat barrier products, but several others have stated the engine is not dialed in. Heat barrier items before a better running engine is the proverbial band aid trying to fix a broken bone. While the band aid may give initial confidence to the injured person, as time passes it will become obvious the bone really had not healed properly if at all.
PK
PMK
Active member
JC, it is apparent from some of your posts that you have endured tuning other vehicles. I have not tuned an 13 or prior Spyder and our 14 RTs seems close as is.
Egos aside from everyone, can you speculate (wish list) what the best setup could be for these hot machines to gain control over the heat problem? If you reply, keep the ideas real and available. Something that can be done with reasonable effort, experience, and not break the retirement income or bank as it applies.
PK
jcthorne
Well-known member
Since the tuning updated done by BRP earlier this year, I actually think the tune is pretty darn close. Its as rich as BRP can go and appease the emissions requirements and not overheat or plug the cat converter. Judging from repeated looks at the plugs and just the general driveabilty since that tune was installed, its pretty darn close. At least on my and Louise bikes. A bit richer at idle and low throttle would help exhaust temps, but don't think BRP can go any further in that direction.
Suggested updates to help, and in order of improvement:
Wrap header pipes.
Remove air box and install JTMachine Air cleaner
Install Bypass pipe (not available to BRP)
Remove sound panels from bottom of engine bay and direct radiator air flow down (BRP's fix of reversing fan is a better idea but not easily done by the owner)
Insulate inside of engine bay body panels (were contact with driver) and fuel tank.
Suggested 'Fix' from BRP:
Coated or otherwise insulated exhaust header pipes. (they will likely not do this one)
Insulated or double wall fuel tank (They will fight this one due to cost, it also could reduce already poor range)
Revised air cleaner assy to improve engine bay air flow (may not be necessary depending on body panel revisions)
Revised front body panels to improve engine bay air flow.
Reverse radiator cooling fan below 6mph
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Magdave
New member
:agree::agree: Same as I said all along. The "Heat Fix " test kit did include the reversing fan but as we both know that is just a "comfort" fix and will not solve the engine bay issues. I do believe they should do it for comfort's sake though... The rest of the kit included moving the sensor. Increased air flow is a must. I tried using the adjustable vents covers over the fender honeycombs. Not sure how effective or how much help they are but those honeycomb grills could (and should) be replaced with a scoop that will work with the adjustable vents (which were also part of the "Heat Fix" kit). I know the grills are for letting the heat rise out of the bay but may be the only spot to allow air injection into the bay also. They would still work at stop to allow heat to rise up and out. If they do not fix the fuel vapor issue with exhaust and gas tank fixes they will never get past the NHTSA investigation IMHO.:thumbup:
finless
New member
I added the adjustable deflectors not long ago and I noticed an increase in foot and body heat with them open! So I did some air flow testing using sailing ribbons.
This is what I found.
To this day if I have them fully open I notice increased foot heat and heat around the seat EXCEPT when I am on the freeway for long runs.
Bob
jcthorne
Well-known member
I sure hope the NHTSA holds BRP to actual fixes on this one. If so, you are correct, I see no other combination that would fix this.
PMK
Active member
Guess you all will know soon enough.
Doesn't seem like the true source has been found, simply speculation and a lot of talk.
If the gov't finds BRPs mods effective, all the best with it for those with concerns.
PK
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