Ron, I know you have said this before, but it appears to me that my F3 does track better on some straight roads with the Ronbar. I am talking about narrow, unkerbed country roads with a high crown and uneven surface. Pre the Ronbar, I felt the F3 was constantly trying to take me into the bush, which was quite worrying. I don't get this feeling any more. Am I imagining things, or is this possible?
Pete
Hey Pete, you aren't imagining things & the improvements you are feeling are not imaginary, they are real & well recognised in the motoring & suspension design industry! Still, I don't think many people who haven't
actually experienced them understand exactly
HOW 'uneven' our non-major roads can be!! (Not that some of our 'Major Roads' are all that much better tho!!) Anyone realising that the 'unevenness' we experience is sufficient to
really get the suspension articulating enough to effect the steering & wheel alignment & (especially on things with front suspension like our Spyders) induce noticeable steering direction changes on one or both wheels, then they would be much more likely to understand why fitting stiffer sway bars DOES improve our straight line riding!! The 'less than ideal' nature of much of our formed road network is one of the reason that sooo many vehicle manufacturers spend so much time & money extensively testing their vehicles here in Aus - even if they aren't going to sell the particular vehicle here, they've likely been testing them here, which has made for a reasonably lucrative 'retirement income' for me! It's not only the rugged nature of our Outback & the wide open spaces that attract them, but also the quality (or lack there-of) of our formed roads & the level of punishment they can mete out that allows virtual years of driving elsewhere to be experienced here in a relatively short space of time!! But you & I get to ride it every day!! :thumbup:
Now, getting on to the how & why stiffer sway bars improve the straight line ride... The bigger bumps & uneven sections of road we have here DO flex the suspension significantly, & if you look at the front suspension on your Spyder you'll notice that big enough suspension movements will noticeably change the camber & the toe in/out on the steer wheels as the suspension articulates, which means that as the road surfaces causes suspension flex on one side or the other, the 'straight ahead' & steering efect for the tire on that side will vary a little & as a result we get those continuous 'small direction changes' whether we like them or not!! And I'm not trying to be rude by mentioning that effect is probably compounded by your (greater than usual) weight & the higher load you put on the front suspension as a result too!! :shocked:
By installing a stiffer stabiliser bar, you've got more of a direct link across both wheels & between the different sides of the front suspension; meaning a 'bump' or pothole under
one wheel or side actually reacts LESS overall on that side than it would if it was reacting alone; simply because due to that linking stabiliser bar the impact is now shared to some extent by the suspension on the other side as well, since the bar is there specifically to do that & to transfer or share some of the suspension movement across to & with the other side. So both wheels reacting to someextent produces less total camber & toe in/out change than that which can occur when it's just one wheel & the suspension on that side reacting alone, & that means the result is less total suspension induced steering waddle &/or 'head for the bush' effect. Similarly with the high crowned roads we have - a stiffer stabiliser bar transfers
some of the 'leaning load' that's being applied to the lower side wheel across to the other wheel, so the lesser total impact reduces the
individual change in camber & toe on the downhill wheel (which is what makes your Spyder want to 'head for the bush' in the first place, besides the purely gravitational effect!) & by sharing the load thru a stiffer stabiliser bar it allows similar but lesser changes on the uphill wheel too, the uphill changes counteracting to some extent the lesser tendency to head for the bush a bit more!!
Mind you, having a good wheel alignment to start with certainly helps too!! As will your new shocks & springs - less 'spongy' suspension means those uneven bumps & potholes will have less adverse effect on the steering changes that the suspension flexing MUST induce as we ride - you could probably get rid of the adverse impact entirely by making one suspension or steering component sooo rigid that it wouldn't allow any adverse impact to occur, but it'd probably stuff the steering, ride, & handling!! By putting on a (slightly) stiffer stabiliser, it's made some small changes for the better without introducing any nasty compromises; by fitting better shocks & springs as wel, it'll make similarly small improvements without introducing adverse impacts from that approach too! Individually, all of these changes you are making are enough of an improvement to be noticeable without the compromise down-side being unacceptable; & collectively they all add up to mean that the overall ride & handling improvements are significant, but still without the collective down-sides being too painful to bear or likely even noticeable!! :thumbup: