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Am I losing My Mind?

WaltH

Senior Member
I got the software update yesterday and it was clear before I left the parking lot at the dealer that the steering was significantly improved. I expected this. It still has the tiny bump in the center when the vehicle is not moving (not a problem), but the associated small dead spot is gone. If the vehicle is moving at all, the steering is great. There is no doubt about the improvement, even though I had no complaints going into the update. I never had any problems with the steering and I never had a life threatening incident. My life threatening incident was the fire in Spyder#1.

The big surprise for me was that the Spyder seemed to run better. I did not expect this. In fact other owners have reported the opposite. I was satisfied with the way the Spyder was running, and now it seems to be significantly better. I would describe it as "smoother delivery of power", or as some say "better drive-ability". I thought my mind might be playing tricks on me. Am I slowly losing my mind? I did several test runs trying to prove it was no better, but I still cannot shake the feeling that it runs better.

The work order for the update indicates that the ECM and the Instrument Cluster were updated along with the DPS. Does anyone know what functionality of the ECM and the Cluster were affected by the update? This may provide a clue for my delusional experiences.

If someone can post a copy of the instruction sheet for the dealer, it could tell us what functionality was affected. My dealer would not release this document. They are just generally not cooperative.
 
i just had mine done and the steering has improved but mine is running horrible! it sputters, pops and idles bad. the check engine light keeps coming on too. it didn't start running rough until about 30 miles away from dealership. it is not too bad at high speeds but when i am stopped or running in low gears it feels like it is going to die on me. when i give it gas it wants to sputter then surge. it pops when i let off the gas or give it gas. when i'm sitting at a light i can hear little puffs from my exhaust. i got mine in 07 model and has 13200 on it. the only thing i've changed is the exhaust pipe to a micron.:dontknow:
 
common problem

i just had mine done and the steering has improved but mine is running horrible! it sputters, pops and idles bad. the check engine light keeps coming on too. it didn't start running rough until about 30 miles away from dealership. it is not too bad at high speeds but when i am stopped or running in low gears it feels like it is going to die on me. when i give it gas it wants to sputter then surge. it pops when i let off the gas or give it gas. when i'm sitting at a light i can hear little puffs from my exhaust. i got mine in 07 model and has 13200 on it. the only thing i've changed is the exhaust pipe to a micron.:dontknow:

Yours is running worse and a lot of others, mine ran fine for a while then almost dumped me. I had no problems with anything before the upgrade.:yikes:
 
I had previously noted that I had the tendency to sputter at low RPM when cold (before 1 bar). I also had surging at low speeds even when at operating temperature. Now that I've had the software update, I have no problems with low speed sputtering at any time.

I have the stock exhaust which may make a difference. The posts I've seen about the update making matters worse were generally folks with after market exhaust so my theory is that the update included something about fuel regulation aimed at a stock setup.

Just speculation on my part.
 
trm17118, you are correct. I have the Two Brothers exhaust and about 100 miles after my "update" the Spyder showed all of the symptoms others describe . . . the popping, rough running, and mine ran HOT. Prior to the upgrade, I had the "perfect" Spyder.

However, I did as others suggested. Disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes, reconnected, started the Spyder and let it idle for about 10 minutes or so. Today I rode 125 miles and it ran very well. With an ambient temperature of 93 degrees (suck-oven Florida) it showed four bars and sometimes even three. Five at a long red light, and back to four again. Not nearly as much backfiring.

In conclusion, I now believe that the ECU can be "reset" by doing the above procedure and that the new download addressed those with the original exhaust system.

Can't say that I notice any steering differences, however.
 
I had previously noted that I had the tendency to sputter at low RPM when cold (before 1 bar). I also had surging at low speeds even when at operating temperature. Now that I've had the software update, I have no problems with low speed sputtering at any time.

I have the stock exhaust which may make a difference. The posts I've seen about the update making matters worse were generally folks with after market exhaust so my theory is that the update included something about fuel regulation aimed at a stock setup.

Just speculation on my part.

I too am trying to figure out if there is some common link to why some folks have a successful steering upgrade while others end up with new problems. As stated on another thread, there are many variables that make the common link difficult to nail down. It also seems like the degradation of performance is not immediate for many. But then there are others who have had no issues. It's puzzling and frustrating. The sad part is that the steering part of the upgrade really needs to happen on my bike, I just don't need the 'bonus' of it not running right--been there, done that with my last ride.
 
I'm wondering if it's a dealer thing. One, you have to keep the laptop plugged in when you do it. Also could some of these dealers be putting a screwy or corrupt version in? Someone on here posted - forget who - that they put 3.1 in and it ran like cr@p and then they took it out and redownloaded V3.2 in? Could it be a dealer thing?
 
Mine too started to run crappy about a week following the patch. I disconnected the battery last night for about 20 minutes then let it run for a short burst. She's back to about 98% normal...a sputter now and then. I don't have a clue what disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes does. Kinda reminds me of calling the satellite or DSL provider when their modems act goofy. They say to pull the plug for 1 minute. How much do they get paid to say that?
 
Mine too started to run crappy about a week following the patch. I disconnected the battery last night for about 20 minutes then let it run for a short burst. She's back to about 98% normal...a sputter now and then. I don't have a clue what disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes does. Kinda reminds me of calling the satellite or DSL provider when their modems act goofy. They say to pull the plug for 1 minute. How much do they get paid to say that?

Provided the update changes anything fuel/O2 related, then disconnecting the battery is necessary...you have to reset the ECU as your aftermarket pipe will throw it off. This makes perfect sense to me...I did this with the hindle and haven't had a problem with it. This new update is like putting on a new pipe, but the change is in the software...either way, the bike has to 'learn' the new setup. I'm not sure you have to disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, but you likely have to idle the bike for 15 minutes for the computer to learn new mapping...

I go in for the update in 2 weeks...I will have them disconnect the battery and then idle the bike for 15 minutes...just as I did with the hindle...
 
Steering

Had my first service $$$$$$$$$ today. Almost as bad as Harley.. Anyway had the recall for the steering done, I can't tell any difference other than my wallet is lighter.:roflblack:
 
Mine too started to run crappy about a week following the patch. I disconnected the battery last night for about 20 minutes then let it run for a short burst. She's back to about 98% normal...a sputter now and then. I don't have a clue what disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes does. Kinda reminds me of calling the satellite or DSL provider when their modems act goofy. They say to pull the plug for 1 minute. How much do they get paid to say that?

Devices with electronic circuits and computers in them can often have a problem with old, bad or incorrect data stuck inside them. One of the easiest ways to get rid of the old or bad data is to remove all power from the device for some amount of time. That allows all the capacitors to discharge and lose any data that's not written to a hard storage device. Then the device is powered up with the stock or basic settings.
 
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