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Alternate Gauge installation

Pennyrick

New member
I have taken off the panel surround from my '12 RT to have it color matched to the Pearl White on the Spyder. It is currently at the paint shop.

Since I disconnected the analog gauges I really like the display of the digital gauges better.

I don't want to put the analog fuel and temp gauges back in place if they aren't going to monitor anything so I am thinking of using a Volt Meter and a Vacuum Gauge instead.

From the picture of the wiring on the fuel gauge side you can see I am pointing a screwdriver at the red wire. Is this all that has to be cut to install the voltmeter? Can I just cut the red wire going into the triple connecter (I figure the other red wire is for the panel lights) and run it into one side of the gauge, then run the other side to ground?

The vacuum gauge will have to go to some kind of port on the throttle body but that type of thing is beyond my capability. Do you think the tech at my Spyder dealership could handle that or do you think I need to find another type of technician?

Thanks in advance for any information.
 
From the picture of the wiring on the fuel gauge side you can see I am pointing a screwdriver at the red wire. Is this all that has to be cut to install the voltmeter? Can I just cut the red wire going into the triple connecter (I figure the other red wire is for the panel lights) and run it into one side of the gauge, then run the other side to ground?

That is what I did on mine. I actually "tapped" it with a Posi-tap so I can always install the analog gauges later if I decide to sell/trade Gray :spyder2:.
 
"I have taken off the panel surround from my '12 RT to have it color matched to the Pearl White on the Spyder. It is currently at the paint shop."

Very interested to see how that turns out and the color match. Please post picts~:popcorn:
 
That wire will, most certainly run a voltmeter however a better indication of battery health is taken across the battery.
What you'll see with the indicated red wire isn't true battery voltage.
A fused relay controlled by a key on function, like the radio, is a better indication.

Although there are times when the voltage across both should be identical such as when the RPMs are 4K & above.
The reading you would get just prior to starting won't be indicative of battery health (12.6V) with the red wire.

Just my opinion.

Agree---I ran my voltmeter off of the battery and switched it on the panel.
 

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Here's a first try DIY that we did on Teds Red Sled, not perfect but still looks good

This is on an extra dash bezel that I had sitting in the garage, so you'll notice NO BRP logo on this one. I'm going to do the original one (with BRP Logo) in the next day or two & I'm thinking with my newly aquired experience from doing this extra one with a can of spray paint from Lowes, (Easy to match the Viper Red, not so the Pearl White tho) I should be able to get the original just about perfect.
20120419_184420.jpg20120419_184719.jpg

I'd also suggest doing the speaker grills as well, since your color coordinating, it makes for a more complete look to the "CockPit" area of any RT, but don't take my word for it, look for yourself & tell me what you think?
IMG_20120428_105935.jpg20120429_110614.jpg------------>>>>20120429_111721.jpg

Also, as another poster suggested, I WOULDN'T (& didn't) CUT/SPLICE THE HOT WIRE! Be safe, use a Posi-Tap, very easy to do & if you ever need to switch things back, all you have to do is unscrew it & everything is back to the way it was. Better safe than sorry IMHO.
 
The Vacuum gauge will be a challenge. There are warnings in the shop manual about messing with the vacuum ports on the left side of the RT. On the right side there is one port used for the fuel canister and a port that is intended for the clutch assist on an SM5. When I did some tests on the port for the canister I got very erratic readings so I would not recommend that one. If you have an SE5 the clutch assist port should be available but it is not easy to get access to. If your dealer has a good tech, he might be able to do this for you.
I will be interested to hear if you get this worked out, as a vacuum gauge can be very useful for monitoring engine performance under different conditions. It can also show you how even minor changes in driving habits can affect efficiency and fuel consumption.
 
How hard is it to remove the fuel gauge and replace it with a oil pressure gauge. Also when you disconnect the fuel gauge, does the digital fuel gauge automatically start working.

enjoy the ride
Allen & Patti
 
How hard is it to remove the fuel gauge and replace it with a oil pressure gauge. Also when you disconnect the fuel gauge, does the digital fuel gauge automatically start working.

enjoy the ride
Allen & Patti

Allen,
Yes, the fuel guage will automatically start working and will show up in the right side of your display. The temp guage will appear in the left side of the display when disconnected. Dale
 
Unless something changed with the 2012 model, you have to disconnect both for them to show up on the display. Disconnecting one of them will not work.
 
Thanks, how hard is it to put in new gauges. I talked to my local dealer and they have never replaced them.

enjoy the ride
Allen & Patti
 
Unless something changed with the 2012 model, you have to disconnect both for them to show up on the display. Disconnecting one of them will not work.

Disconnecting the fuel alone causes both digital fuel and temp to show on the center screen. This also breaks the analog temp gauge.
 
Thanks, how hard is it to put in new gauges. I talked to my local dealer and they have never replaced them.

enjoy the ride
Allen & Patti

Putting the gauges in place is not a problem. The problem is hooking them up. There is a thread on here for hooking up the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge but it is beyond my capability to follow it. I guess hooking up a vacuum gauge is even harder. It appears the easiest supplemental gauges to install are the Voltmeter and the Ambient Air Temperature. Since I already have altimeter; compass and average speed read outs on my Garmin I'm guessing I will most likely go the Voltmeter route and have someone talented hook up the oil pressure connections for me. (Are you listening any talented Georgia Spyder Ryders??)
 
Putting the gauges in place is not a problem. The problem is hooking them up. There is a thread on here for hooking up the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge but it is beyond my capability to follow it. I guess hooking up a vacuum gauge is even harder. It appears the easiest supplemental gauges to install are the Voltmeter and the Ambient Air Temperature. Since I already have altimeter; compass and average speed read outs on my Garmin I'm guessing I will most likely go the Voltmeter route and have someone talented hook up the oil pressure connections for me. (Are you listening any talented Georgia Spyder Ryders??)
Yes, the Voltmeter and Air temp are the easiest to do... I finally gave up and did just that, myself. Here's how it looks.
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