• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

All jokes aside, is this viable?

I tell you that if you install the Titanium Heat wrap with a temperature sustainability of up too 2400 degrees, this will reduce the problems of sitting on a BBQ. I just completed mine and it took 64" 6" of material, which you install dry, and used both stainless steel hose clamps and stainless steel tie wraps to hold in place. Problem solved. It took me about four hours to complete after the Tupperware was removed, and I dropped the "y" pipe to wrap it. I would not say easy pezzy, but what a difference it makes.

Any chance you would be willing to post a step-by-step for us novices? I would love to do this, but I've never tried to take all the Tupperware off Thanks!!
 
Can't speak for everyone, but I think the simple answer is=Cause we want to ryde

Finding it difficult to understand why we should have to come up with designs or remedies to problems that shoud be resolved and payed for by the manufacture(BRP). After paying the amount of $$$ for the purchase of a new Spyder, and then having to pay more because there is a defect is "STUPIT". You would never think of having to do something like that with a brand new car, or other product. The only items a consumer should have to pay for are accessories, enhanced performance and the normal routing service :banghead:

:agree:I totally agree with you :agree:

But, with that said, the heat issue doesn't effect ALL Spyders the same way, & if we all had to park our rydes and wait for BRP to come up with a viable fix, then wait for our dealers to get said fix implemented on all the effected Spyders, well, there'd be allot of folks paying good money for a sweet looking yard/garage ornament while they waited for their time in the shop to get the repair done. So, I think that may be one of the main reasons why many of those that are creative seek ways to correct an issue, to maybe make their rydes more suitable, tho temporary it may be, until BRP can come up with a fix (if they ever can) to the problem. That's just my opinion, and as I 1st stated, we shouldn't have to do anything like this for ourselves, but I know I'd rather try and be ryding than not try and watch my ryde sit and wait...... for who knows how long :dontknow:
 
Finding it difficult to understand why we should have to come up with designs or remedies to problems that shoud be resolved and payed for by the manufacture(BRP). After paying the amount of $$$ for the purchase of a new Spyder, and then having to pay more because there is a defect is "STUPIT". You would never think of having to do something like that with a brand new car, or other product. The only items a consumer should have to pay for are accessories, enhanced performance and the normal routing service :banghead:

This has been a problem for six years, they will not fix it until we stop buying their product,
:banghead:
 
RT and Happy. I have very minimal heat issues on my 2010 RT. I expect some heat because it has to go somewhere, just as my motorcycles do. They produce heat and you feel it when not moving down the highway. From all the complaints it must be an issue with the RS and ST's. I just wonder that at slow speed such as 10 mph or below, could the cooling fan on the radiator be reversed and blow back through the front to at least take the hot air away from the feet? At speed the fan doesn't run anyway. Might be worth a try.
 
???

recent thread had two turbo fans installed in the fog light holes venting to the cylinder heads claiming no more heat problems..yesterday or before. Have ordered some and will try it out and let everyone know..!! :thumbup:

What kind of Turbo fans and where to I get them? :dontknow:Also, not a wrench - how do you "vent to the cylinder head?
 
Nope

RT and Happy. I have very minimal heat issues on my 2010 RT. I expect some heat because it has to go somewhere, just as my motorcycles do. They produce heat and you feel it when not moving down the highway. From all the complaints it must be an issue with the RS and ST's. I just wonder that at slow speed such as 10 mph or below, could the cooling fan on the radiator be reversed and blow back through the front to at least take the hot air away from the feet? At speed the fan doesn't run anyway. Might be worth a try.

I have a 2011 RT LTD and hubby has a 2012. We just made a 9611 mile trip from Oregon to PA, Canada, etc. and the heat at times was unbearable. My right leg actually got burned on the inside from the engine heat. There has to be a fix somewhere. I was wondering if just putting more 'heat wrap sheeting' on the inside of the "Tupperware" would do any thing, but I am just a rider, not an engineer.
 
What kind of Turbo fans and where to I get them? :dontknow:Also, not a wrench - how do you "vent to the cylinder head?

Here's a fan that might do the trick... It is a 12v 3" fan normally used to ventilate the bilge area on a boat and built for rough use.
It pushes air at about 145cfm and draws less than 3 amps. You can buy these at many places less than $20 including Amazon, eBay, West Marine, etc.
I am currently experimenting with one of these on my RT, using a manual switch.

Fan1.jpg Fan2.jpg
 
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:shocked: What are you wearing for riding gear? :shocked:


Perhaps they ride naked?



I agree if airflow isn't removing the heat, I don't see a fan doing much...unless there is just a dead spot that the heat is building in?


Wrapping the exhaust properly on a vehicle can do wonders. I even did it on my minibike. LOL

Just time consuming and takes patience.
 
Here's a fan that might do the trick... It is a 12v 3" fan normally used to ventilate the bilge area on a boat and built for rough use.
It pushes air at about 145cfm and draws less than 3 amps. You can buy these at many places less than $20 including Amazon, eBay, West Marine, etc.
I am currently experimenting with one of these on my RT, using a manual switch.

View attachment 74145 View attachment 74146
Not sure where you can put this that'll do something...

On a boat bilge, do they blow in or out?

A boat bilge is fairly enclosed... The Spyder is relatively open. Where would you put this?

curious...
 
I think that if it's small enough; you could just about find it a home anwhere you could fabricate a mounting bracket, and plumb some air to it. :thumbup:
 
Here's a fan that might do the trick... It is a 12v 3" fan normally used to ventilate the bilge area on a boat and built for rough use.
It pushes air at about 145cfm and draws less than 3 amps. You can buy these at many places less than $20 including Amazon, eBay, West Marine, etc.
I am currently experimenting with one of these on my RT, using a manual switch.

View attachment 74145 View attachment 74146

Please let us know how this turns out. Maybe I'm thick headed, but I think this may be part of the solution...
if or when BRP comes up with a permanent solution.

The 2014's may clue us all in on airflow changes through the Tupperware.:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
Does your RT have the fog lights or not? Do you use that opening to get under the Tupperware? Where will the entry and exit point be?
 
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Not sure where you can put this that'll do something...

On a boat bilge, do they blow in or out?

A boat bilge is fairly enclosed... The Spyder is relatively open. Where would you put this?

curious...
Lots of room to mount it when the stock airbox is gone.... It sits just behind the rh Foglight and pulls cooler air from inside the fender to displace hot air around the top of the engine.

Below is a pic of the fan installed on my RT. Understand, I did this solely to relieve the level of heat around the KewlMetal Intake since my oem Airbox was replaced... It may or may not affect any heat levels for the rider. I am using a manual switch which I only turn on when I get trapped in traffic or need to sit idling for a while.
And, yes, it is making a real improvement as measured by a VDO Temp gauge on my dash. This blower fan really pushes some air in a small space...

If anyone wants more details send me a PM.

RT-bilge-fan.jpg Intake-temp.jpg
 

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Moving some air under the skin

Lots of room to mount it when the stock airbox is gone.... It sits just behind the rh Foglight and pulls cooler air from inside the fender.

Below is a pic of the fan installed on my RT. Understand, I did this solely to relieve the level of heat around the KewlMetal Intake since my oem Airbox was replaced... It may or may not affect any heat levels for the rider. I am using a manual switch which I only turn on when I get trapped in traffic or need to sit idling for a while.
And, yes, it is making a real improvement as measured by a VDO Temp gauge on my dash. This blower fan really pushes some air... If anyone wants more details send me a PM.
View attachment 74269 View attachment 74270

This sounds like some really good news!. From other posts I know people have wanted to do this and see what the results are. Keep us posted as you get more time on this mod. Can you record some before and after temp readings? Maybe this will be a catalyst for other people to try it. Hello BRP? Does the hot air exit out the bottom?
 
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This sounds like some really good news!. From other posts I know people have wanted to do this and see what the results are. Keep us posted as you get more time on this mod. Can you record some before and after temp readings? Maybe this will be a catalyst for other people to try it. Hello BRP? Does the hot air exit out the bottom?
No, the blower is picking up cooler air inside the fender, near the RT scoop, and pushing it upward across the engine.... the heat has to be mostly flowing out the top vents in the tupperwear.

My heat level around the seat/glovebox area dropped significantly when I originally did the KewlMetal Intake conversion. I have not noticed much change while riding using the blower but may get a better test this weekend going to Birmingham.

BlowerFan.jpg
 
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No, the blower is picking up cooler air inside the fender, near the RT scoop, and pushing it upward across the engine.... the heat has to be mostly flowing out the top vents in the tupperwear.

My heat level around the seat/glovebox area dropped significantly when I originally did the KewlMetal Intake conversion. I have not noticed much change while riding using the blower but may get a better test this weekend going to Birmingham.

Is it more a removal of the air box or the air flow provided by the fan? Again, this will be intriguing to follow. Keep us posted.:popcorn:
 
Is it more a removal of the air box or the air flow provided by the fan? Again, this will be intriguing to follow. Keep us posted.:popcorn:


That is a good question.

opening up the airflow on an engine can make it run cooler as far as heat soak. IMO
 
Finding it difficult to understand why we should have to come up with designs or remedies to problems that shoud be resolved and payed for by the manufacture(BRP). After paying the amount of $$$ for the purchase of a new Spyder, and then having to pay more because there is a defect is "STUPIT". You would never think of having to do something like that with a brand new car, or other product. The only items a consumer should have to pay for are accessories, enhanced performance and the normal routing service :banghead:

A-Men to that brother. I have been saying this from day one, but I believe you have said it better! When will we wise up and join together on this?
 
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