alignment specifications

[Michaelscs]

I did my own, not a big deal in my opinion since it is a basic toe adjustment. Yes there are other considerations such as the centering the steering and electronics. We had no obvious pull, or centering concerns, simply the machine was crap apexing corners. The front end is similar to a race kart and it felt like an ill handling kart.

I did not use angle iron, but had the inexpensive tools already for doing my own alignments on other vehicles. Sat my friend on the bike that weighs the right amount, about my weight in gear. And set it up, works fine. Used specs that Drew mentioned.

PMK, How did you determine the length of you horizontal bars? That would greatly effect your measurements.

Thanks

 

[PMK]

PMK, How did you determine the length of you horizontal bars? That would greatly effect your measurements.

Thanks

I didn't, that entire setup is available from QuickTrick or something like that. I bought it for aligning the cars and trucks we own. Tried it on the Spyder and it works fine.

 

[PMK]

I was thinking along the same lines. Seems that in your setup, it is critical that the jig's tape measure points plane be perfectly parallel to the plane of the wheel contact points.

I use something similar for cars. As long as the spyder is not pulling, do you adjust the tie rods on both sides an equal amount so as to not change the handle bar position? is 1/8 inch adjust significant to the nanny in your experience.

This entire setup is for cars and what I bought it for.

As for the mention about the toe bars contact points, yes and no. Obviously there are things that could vary your results, but overall the Spyder is a pretty docile alignment since by design, inherently there is a lot of bumpsteer.

I also considered I have aligned much faster and more critical things in the past, the key word is tolerance. So unless you place the toe sticks on a raised white letter, the front / rear dimension are very accurately for what we are accomplishing...

 

[saber504]

This entire setup is for cars and what I bought it for.

As for the mention about the toe bars contact points, yes and no. Obviously there are things that could vary your results, but overall the Spyder is a pretty docile alignment since by design, inherently there is a lot of bumpsteer.

I also considered I have aligned much faster and more critical things in the past, the key word is tolerance. So unless you place the toe sticks on a raised white letter, the front / rear dimension are very accurately for what we are accomplishing...

It looked like your contact was on the wheel but the above suggests it touches the tire. What does it contact?

 

[GearHd]

Why bother fabricating a jig when it only costs $130 to get the alignment done correctly? I could see if you had a bunch of buddies that needed there's done. But if I don't know you I'm sure not paying for some backyard fabricated alignment when I can pay $130 for a proven laser alignment. We just had our 14 ST-L laser aligned last week and it's night and day. The left front was toed out a mile.

 

[PMK]

It looked like your contact was on the wheel but the above suggests it touches the tire. What does it contact?

Depends, I have used them on the tire and also with small spacers against the tires bead.

As I mentioned unless the bar is on a raised white letter the impact on alignment is minimal.

I do like many things about the laser setup, one item that does make me wonder about accuracy since I have never heard mention of the laser being tracked while spinning the wheel / hub, is that since the mount spot on the hub is a small diameter, the accuracy of the mounting is less tolerant to any debris or mounting error since a tiny amount on the hub is huge at 10 feet out.

The laser setup is a good method, with a proven following. Nothing wrong with that. Certainly better than how they do them when new at production.

 

[DrewNJ]

Why bother fabricating a jig when it only costs $130 to get the alignment done correctly? I could see if you had a bunch of buddies that needed there's done. But if I don't know you I'm sure not paying for some backyard fabricated alignment when I can pay $130 for a proven laser alignment. We just had our 14 ST-L laser aligned last week and it's night and day. The left front was toed out a mile.

Because there really isn't a necessity to fabricate anything, and cost absolutely nothing to do but a bit of time with common materials found around most garages.
Further, doing it yourself gives you the ability to dial in your own setup.
The "alignment" changes constantly as you ride and the suspension cycles, rider weight, cargo, and riding 1 or 2 up. There is no exact setting that is perfect for everyone. Its a compromise. You'd be surprised at how little adjustments affect handling, especially if your more aggressive in the turns.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[DrewNJ]

PMK, How did you determine the length of you horizontal bars? That would greatly effect your measurements.

Thanks

The length does affect the measurements considerably. That's why there is no real "magic number" anyone can post for the shade tree method.
The laser system just allows for consistent specs firing the lasers to a set distance target.

You could do the same with tapes and bars to, once you figure what works for length.
My 1/16"-1/8" is based on the bars I use personally. I don't recall the exact length and to lazy to dig them out, but they are about 3'

Don't be afraid of it. If your Spyder tracks straight just make sure you do equal adjustments to each side. Work smart or keep the tools in the box...[emoji106]

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Bob Denman]

I have never seen one new user join the group and so steadfastly refuse to acknowledge real world evidence rather than trust what some BRP talking head told them in a passing conversation.
Its been proven several hundred times over. To the point that BRP themselves now recommend the aftermarket solution to their own dealers. It may not be the 'only' way. But it is a way that is proven and repeatable and recommended by the OEM.

If you do not want your bike aligned, fine, no one is holding a gun to your head. .

:agree: You've come to this party with some pretty strong opinions...
...And you're not gonna let facts get in the way of them; are you? :roflblack:

You'll learn...eventually!

 

[stevehendo34]

We set are race cars at 0 to start and may add a little toe in if it gets squirmy on test laps.
This thing is not a rocket ship, frame alignment works fine.

 

[stevehendo34]

0 +-.5mm
Anyone actually done what the service manual says--cash money.
Mine worked out just fine at 0 toe angle aligned to the frame.
Go back to high school and take trig if you want to set it to a different toe angle using whatever setup dimensions are.
But if you change it, you do have to reset those sensors to keep the VCM & DPS happy.

 

[Peter Aawen]

We set are race cars at 0 to start and may add a little toe in if it gets squirmy on test laps.
This thing is not a rocket ship, frame alignment works fine.

ldpost: Bit of thread archaeology going on here.

 

[bikerchris1270]

So it would be smart to be sure the belt was aligned properly first as changing that changes the way the rear wheel is pointed.

The laser alignment described in this post reminds me of a snowmobile alignment. Where the skis are centered to the track first then toe in is set. Sure seems like you could measure toe in and its relation ship to the rear tire with equipment in your own garage. Why does the buds system need to be recalibrated? Is there a sensor that tells the computer where the handle bars are positioned? Does this impact the power steering or just the nanny systems? Seems like a minor tow adjust would not be significant to the nanny.

Does anyone know the tow in spec including the +-

1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch toe in @ 75 in from wheel center front and rear targets.