ALARM SYSTEM:

[RockyMountainRider50]

Bob, it's Brock. You've given me guidance in the past. Wanted to ask if your system (Spy 5000) automatically armed itself after shutting down and removing the key? Or have you figured that out?


RockyMountainRyder

 

[finless]

Bob, it's Brock. You've given me guidance in the past. Wanted to ask if your system (Spy 5000) automatically armed itself after shutting down and removing the key? Or have you figured that out?


RockyMountainRyder

By using the remote and pressing buttons per the instructions, you can make it auto arm itself (which is default if you change nothing) when the key is turned off or not.
I have mine set to not auto arm as I do not use the alarm every time.

However what you cannot turn off is the 3 chirps when the key is shut off.
These chirps tell you it is not armed and to arm it. So it's a warning you cannot turn off.

Bob

 

[vided]

the model fido works well :thumbup::roflblack:

 

[PMK]

SPY 5000 here myself.
Make sure you get the one with the "microwave" antenna as not all of them come with that.

Install was pretty easy. I installed the entire thing under the left hand passenger grip area. Plenty of room there.

I put the remote control antenna and ran it up the passenger backrest and mounted it on the top of the backrest mount under the trunk lid. This gets it up high and antenna range is excellent. I have been a shopping malls and still had reception from the parking lot.

I put the microwave sensor under the seat just behind the gas cap area. This give you sensing for anyone entering the Y.

You need to hook a minimum of 3 wires.
Negative to battery
Positive to battery
A switched 12V so the alarm knows the key is on or off. I hooked that to the riding lights.
Then if you want the flashers (turn signals) to flash with the alarm, you hook up the 2 yellow wires. One to the left rear turn signal and one to the right. You do not have to hook those up but it's pretty easy so I recommend it.

If you want some help let me know and I will shoot a video of my installation and tips.

Bob

Now you have me thinking...I was trying to use the now always hot 12v in the trunk to run the alarm, but it would not see power on with key.

So I need to make a choice, no Battery Minder into the 12v trunk outlet, or find another switched power.

Does the 14 RTs have a switched power that is "studded" rather splice into a wire? I ask since here in FL with the rain and wet, I am always hesitant to expose a bare wire if possible.

PK

 

[finless]

Now you have me thinking...I was trying to use the now always hot 12v in the trunk to run the alarm, but it would not see power on with key.

So I need to make a choice, no Battery Minder into the 12v trunk outlet, or find another switched power.

Does the 14 RTs have a switched power that is "studded" rather splice into a wire? I ask since here in FL with the rain and wet, I am always hesitant to expose a bare wire if possible.

PK

I cannot answer that BUT what I did is tap into the wires for the riding lights (as a switched 12V) under the left hand passenger hand grip not at the lights themselves.
I also did it here for the left and right turn signals.
This is where the big connector is that plugs all lights on the rear end of the spyder to the main harness.
I removed the cover to the lights and looked at the wire colors for riding and turn signals.
Then under the passenger hand grip cover, I tapped into those wires there right at the main connector using posi-taps.
If you are concerned about water and corrosion then you can use finger nail polish or get a can of liquid electrical tape, and seal them off.

Bob

 

[finless]

PMK, another thought since it sounds like you hooked it up in the Frunk, look at the fuse block and see if you can tap in at a fuse for switched 12V.
Get a volt meter and probe for a switched 12v and then tap on to the fuse wire stud itself.

Bob

 

[finless]

Bob, it's Brock. You've given me guidance in the past. Wanted to ask if your system (Spy 5000) automatically armed itself after shutting down and removing the key? Or have you figured that out?


RockyMountainRyder

Brock, FYI.... I watched your video and see you did not hook up the switched 12V wire (Brown).
If you do not do this, it will auto ARM or No Auto ARM because the unit has no way to know you turned the key off.

If you leave the brown wire unhooked and you have auto ARM setting on then it has no way to know you turned the key on and thus will keep auto ARMing (it thinks the key is off).
If you hook the brown wire it to always on 12V, then it will never auto ARM as it does not know the key is turned off.

So to have auto ARMing, hooking the brown wire to switched 12V is a must.

Bob

 

[billybovine]

I cannot answer that BUT what I did is tap into the wires for the riding lights (as a switched 12V) under the left hand passenger hand grip not at the lights themselves.
I also did it here for the left and right turn signals.
This is where the big connector is that plugs all lights on the rear end of the spyder to the main harness.
I removed the cover to the lights and looked at the wire colors for riding and turn signals.
Then under the passenger hand grip cover, I tapped into those wires there right at the main connector using posi-taps.
If you are concerned about water and corrosion then you can use finger nail polish or get a can of liquid electrical tape, and seal them off.

Bob

It sounds like you tapped in near the connector CIC2 where BRP taps in for the trailer harness. It should be easy enough to make a Y harness and that gives you access to most of what's needed. Running lights for switched power. Turn signals. 10 amp unswitched power source. Ground. Just need a male and female Delphi GT 150 10 pin connector plus the bits to make a watertight harness.

 

[billybovine]

PMK, another thought since it sounds like you hooked it up in the Frunk, look at the fuse block and see if you can tap in at a fuse for switched 12V.
Get a volt meter and probe for a switched 12v and then tap on to the fuse wire stud itself.

Bob

I would not tap into the fuse box on 2013 or later models. The fuse box location behind the front trunk is exposed to a lot of water.

 

[finless]

It sounds like you tapped in near the connector CIC2 where BRP taps in for the trailer harness. It should be easy enough to make a Y harness and that gives you access to most of what's needed. Running lights for switched power. Turn signals. 10 amp unswitched power source. Ground. Just need a male and female Delphi GT 150 10 pin connector plus the bits to make a watertight harness.

Yes this is where I tapped in.

So yea if you wanted a "Pro" install, making a Y harness would be good. Just remember when you order the connectors to also order the water proof pin blocks. You need two kinds that come with those. The green ones to block off unused pin holes on BOTH sides of the connector, and the round orange ones that go on the wires to water proof the used pins.

It's kind of a pain in the rear though. If you look on Mouser Electronics, you can only order the Delphi pins in rolls of several hundred. They do not offer those pins in 1 off quantities. This is why for the Bluetooth dongle cable we have to use another pin style as those are available in single quantities as the correct Delphi pins you can only get in large quantities.

So just an idea, if there are enough people that want a easy install harness for the SPY 5000m and are willing to order the parts, I will make cables for free just like I do for the Bluetooth dongle
The first person to want a Y cable would spend the most because they would order the pins in quantity which then can be used for additional Y cables.

Bob

 

[PMK]

PMK, another thought since it sounds like you hooked it up in the Frunk, look at the fuse block and see if you can tap in at a fuse for switched 12V.
Get a volt meter and probe for a switched 12v and then tap on to the fuse wire stud itself.

Bob

Actually, I need to post a photo of what I did. The alarm is self contained inside a tupperware style plastic tub with lid. The entire setup drops into the rear trunk. I just want something that will keep people off the Spyder more so than theft prevention. So inside the trunk should be loud enough.

I do like the install video I watched putting the alarm components under the left side grab handle. Just not sure how water proof it will be. We have been caught in serious South Florida rains without much warning or place to hide.

For power and ground I installed a 12v plug on the alarm setup. This connects into the rear trunk always powered (fuse has been moved) 12v power point.

Pretty sure I need the brown connected. Just need to find a good point to pull switched power that will remain waterproof.

PK

 

[SPYD3R]

dhgates.com

I posted an inquiry recently and received no responses?? was just wondering if any Spyder owners have an alarm system on their bike? we all park outside of our hotels in strange communities and don't have a clue on the crime in that area.
was wondering what a reasonably priced alarm costs and what brand? thanks/
THE BIG F

check out some of these...
http://www.dhgate.com/wholesale/sea...rcycle+alarm+system&catalog=#Homesearch201403
sorry for the non-reply.... but 99% of us really try to do our best to help out...
Dan P
SPYD3R F3-S

 

[RockyMountainRider50]

Brock, FYI.... I watched your video and see you did not hook up the switched 12V wire (Brown).
If you do not do this, it will auto ARM or No Auto ARM because the unit has no way to know you turned the key off.

If you leave the brown wire unhooked and you have auto ARM setting on then it has no way to know you turned the key on and thus will keep auto ARMing (it thinks the key is off).
If you hook the brown wire it to always on 12V, then it will never auto ARM as it does not know the key is turned off.

So to have auto ARMing, hooking the brown wire to switched 12V is a must.

Bob

Thanks! Will do.


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[PW2013STL]

BTW

I found that the solid orange wire to be keyed power and is what I use to power anything that I want to have turn on and off with the key.
Do not use any orange with stripe wires as those tend to be used for things like your rad fan and the extra load could cause the fans to be always on - not that that happened to me :banghead: