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Air pump. 2012 RT lIMITED

B

bobw2000

New member
Air pump makes am occasional hell of a racket. Let all the air out on the Schrader valve and thought it would stay quiet if there was no call for adjustment. Doesn't seem to want to co operate. So I get this sorry ratchet sound which is really embarrassing. I'm thinking there should be a way to either disconnect the wiring or clip a hot wire without any harm. What do you think.
Bob in Florida.
 
bobw2000 said:
Air pump makes am occasional hell of a racket. Let all the air out on the Schrader valve and thought it would stay quiet if there was no call for adjustment. Doesn't seem to want to co operate. So I get this sorry ratchet sound which is really embarrassing. I'm thinking there should be a way to either disconnect the wiring or clip a hot wire without any harm. What do you think.
Bob in Florida.
Click to expand...

Disconnect the relay that powers the air pump on my bike it is R4
 
Little checking..

check with your dealer about the compressor. They were having some problems with them but don't remember the years...:dontknow: but :agree: or the compressor itself or maybe the sensor that tell it when to level the spyder....:gaah:
 
Chupaca said:
check with your dealer about the compressor. They were having some problems with them but don't remember the years...:dontknow: but :agree: or the compressor itself or maybe the sensor that tell it when to level the spyder....:gaah:
Click to expand...

Took it to the dealer ... wasn't too happy with a $700 bill for changing everything out. As far as I'm concerned that air pump item is so close to useless it's not needed.

Thank you for your input.
 
jtoro1 said:
Disconnect the relay that powers the air pump on my bike it is R4
Click to expand...

Looks like a good idea .... still lookin for the R4. Have to hit it in the morning as it is around midnight here atm. Thanks again for your input...:yes:
Book says R1 .... it is clearly designated on the relay itself. So.... pulled R1 ... put 85# in the bladder for safety. Looks like I'm good till O decide my final fix...... thanks again.
 
Last edited:
bobw2000 said:
Looks like a good idea .... still lookin for the R4. Have to hit it in the morning as it is around midnight here atm. Thanks again for your input...:yes:
Click to expand...

If you still have an extended warranty you could have it changed mine is being changed as we speak no charge
 
Last edited:
jtoro1 said:
If you still have an extended warranty you could have a changed mine is being changed as we speak no charge
Click to expand...

LOL ... that would be nice. Since I have 37000 miles on this old 2012 ( it has been good to me ) and no extended I'm lookin cheap :)
:clap:
 
There are a couple of videos on YouTube that show you how to replace the BRP compressor with an after-market unit. One video by Doc and one by me. Take a look at them if you want a project.
 
I just changed mine on 2012 rt and it was easy if you watch the videos. I got a new aftermarket pump on ebay for $65. It's a viair 98c.
Give it a try:ani29:
 
You could convert it to a manual system or replace the compressor. Problem is the spring on the shock isn't very strong and you need the air bag to help hold the back end up.
 
If you dont want to spend the big bucks on having it replaced change it back to manual and air it up at the shrade valve, cost about .15 cents worth of hose.
Just run a line from the shrade valve under seat to air bag. Mine is done and I did a friends, both 2012 RTL , they hold air good and no more problems. I just set the air pressure at 85# for riding double and only have to check it once a year. Its your call.
Roger
 
R FUN said:
If you dont want to spend the big bucks on having it replaced change it back to manual and air it up at the shrade valve, cost about .15 cents worth of hose.
Just run a line from the shrade valve under seat to air bag. Mine is done and I did a friends, both 2012 RTL , they hold air good and no more problems. I just set the air pressure at 85# for riding double and only have to check it once a year. Its your call.
Roger
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing.Still would have to pull the R1 relay I am assuming as that is the one my manual is showing.
Nice looking bike by the way. Like the foot panels alot. Thanks for your input.
 
larryd said:
I would like to read the install instructions on the RTS & RTL that have the factory air systems...
Click to expand...

Here are the flyers and installation instructions for the Spyder Air System that we have. I was confused by your comment and unsure if you was asking to see our install instructions on this item or someone else. If not disregard this comment. Thank you.

instant air.jpg instant air 2.jpg instant air 4.jpg instant air 5.jpg instant air 3.jpg
 
Highwayman2013 said:
You could convert it to a manual system or replace the compressor. Problem is the spring on the shock isn't very strong and you need the air bag to help hold the back end up.
Click to expand...

Heard from a good friend and fellow Spyderryder that it is normal for a manual fill system to lose air. He has an F3Ltd. They were trying to figure out why it was loosing air in between rydes. Come to find that is normal. So, every time they get ready to ryde they have to pull the seat and air it up. Not very happy, especially when they found out BRP wanted $700 to fix the problem by retrofitting a compressor and the controls for the auto fill air ryde. I would think twice about going manual.

Also, I installed the aftermarket Viair 98C compressor last year and I couldn't be happier. I also installed a Air Ryde Rock Armour cup on the bottom of the airbag to keep rocks from piercing it. This is a standard problem and hard to diagnose. The dealer usually just replaces the compressor and it eventually burns out again. What happened to me.

I fixed a pinhole puncture of the bottom of the airbag by pouring 4oz of green slime in the inlet with the bag off of the byke. No danger that way of getting any of the slime in the pump. Still holds air almost 1 year later.

If anyone wants to see the ARRA we have it on the website.

http://roadsterrenovations.info
 
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