Air filter box

[gfd1182]

Great I'm understanding thx to all your pictures!

so when it come to extending the fuel pipe with an inline filter im lost

 

[PistonBlown]

Great I'm understanding thx to all your pictures!

so when it come to extending the fuel pipe with an inline filter im lost

Ok so lets discuss what the canister is there for.

Gas expands with heat, particularly the gas vapors. If your gas tank was completely sealed then there would be no room for this expansion which in extreme cases could fracture the petrol tank.

So the old way of solving this was to just allow the tank to vent these gas vapors. E.g. old gap caps on motorbikes would have a little hole in the top with a one way valve to let the gas out. However not everyone was happy about letting these gases into the atmosphere so manufacturers started using canisters instead.

What happens on the Spyder is there is a breather pipe from the petrol tank for these gases to escape. This goes into the canister which has various filters that are supposed to trap the nasty stuff before the harmless part is allowed out into the atmosphere (via a second pipe). There's also a third pipe that connects and allows the canister to be monitored - if it picks up there's too much gas in this canister then it assumes something is wrong and puts the Spyder into limp home mode.

The problem with the Spyder design is sometimes liquid gas can get into the canister (e.g. normally when you 'brim' the tank). Once this happens you tend to keep getting the strong gas smell, particularly when you've been out for a ride on the Spyder. It can take a long time to properly dry out again and in some cases the Canister has to be replaced. It can also trigger the limp home mode sensor (see above).

So the idea is to remove the canister, block off the sensor pipe so the sensor is happy and re-route the tank breather pipe so it just goes straight to the open air and can vent properly.

So in my first picture if you look pipe (1) that's the sensor you also took a picture of. You just need to block the short pipe off that originally went from the canister to that so the sensor is 'happy' and thinks the canister is still there.

Again in the first picture the second thing you need to do is extend the breather pipe from the gas tank (2) so it's completely clear of the engine area. Obviously you don't want the gases from the gas tank (or and gas itself) from going near a hot engine. You could just extend this pipe somewhere but the reason we put a fuel filter in is to just stop dust (or insects) from making there way up the pipe and back into the petrol tank.

I'll post some more photos in a minute to show where that breather pipe goes.

 

[gfd1182]

Ok so lets discuss what the canister is there for.

Gas expands with heat, particularly the gas vapors. If your gas tank was completely sealed then there would be no room for this expansion which in extreme cases could fracture the petrol tank.

So the old way of solving this was to just allow the tank to vent these gas vapors. E.g. old gap caps on motorbikes would have a little hole in the top with a one way valve to let the gas out. However not everyone was happy about letting these gases into the atmosphere so manufacturers started using canisters instead.

What happens on the Spyder is there is a breather pipe from the petrol tank for these gases to escape. This goes into the canister which has various filters that are supposed to trap the nasty stuff before the harmless part is allowed out into the atmosphere (via a second pipe). There's also a third pipe that connects and allows the canister to be monitored - if it picks up there's too much gas in this canister then it assumes something is wrong and puts the Spyder into limp home mode.

The problem with the Spyder design is sometimes liquid gas can get into the canister (e.g. normally when you 'brim' the tank). Once this happens you tend to keep getting the strong gas smell, particularly when you've been out for a ride on the Spyder. It can take a long time to properly dry out again and in some cases the Canister has to be replaced. It can also trigger the limp home mode sensor (see above).

So the idea is to remove the canister, block off the sensor pipe so the sensor is happy and re-route the tank breather pipe so it just goes straight to the open air and can vent properly.

So in my first picture if you look pipe (1) that's the sensor you also took a picture of. You just need to block the short pipe off that originally went from the canister to that so the sensor is 'happy' and thinks the canister is still there.

Again in the first picture the second thing you need to do is extend the breather pipe from the gas tank (2) so it's completely clear of the engine area. Obviously you don't want the gases from the gas tank (or and gas itself) from going near a hot engine. You could just extend this pipe somewhere but the reason we put a fuel filter in is to just stop dust (or insects) from making there way up the pipe and back into the petrol tank.

I'll post some more photos in a minute to show where that breather pipe goes.

you are a wealth of knowledge !
i have faith in what to do going fwd
it will be helpful if you could tell me what size fuel filter and tubing (to vent outside) I need to buy


I appreciate ate your time and help

 

[PistonBlown]

Ok here's the pictures of how I ran the pipe. I've got a feeling it was the same way as the original vent pipe from the canister ran, it was 3 years ago I did it so having trouble remembering. Second photo shows the pipe coming out the bottom of the pan. You'll notice the hole I used has a rubber grommit on it to protect it as it comes through the pan. I don't remember adding that so that's why I suspect I used the same route as the original vent pipe. Also looking at one of your photos I can see an existing pipe going the same way. It may be you can use the existing pipe but I know I got a new one so suspect the existing one was too short. Will try and work out the diameter for you.

 

[PistonBlown]

Amazingly I found the receipt

• 1 x metre of 1/4 inch fuel line.
• 1 x Small 1/4 inch inline fuel filter
• 3 x Jubilee Clips

1 Metre is roughly 3 foot, still got a length of it in my garage so probably only used about 2 foot.

 

[gfd1182]

Amazingly I found the receipt

• 1 x metre of 1/4 inch fuel line.
• 1 x Small 1/4 inch inline fuel filter
• 3 x Jubilee Clips

1 Metre is roughly 3 foot, still got a length of it in my garage so probably only used about 2 foot.

Thx!!
i see three lines going into the canister
one directly to the middle of the canister without a filter from the gas tank
one coming from the gas tank into canister (picture w silver filter)
and the other looks like it's coming from the air box into the canister (has sensor plug)


which lines get what?
Thx!
gerome

 

[gfd1182]

:bowdowniston blow!
thx for your help!

 

[PistonBlown]

Thx!!
i see three lines going into the canister
one directly to the middle of the canister without a filter from the gas tank

That's the one you put the small fuel filter on and run the pipe downwards and out of the pan. It's the Breather pipe for the gas tank.

one coming from the gas tank into canister (picture w silver filter)

This one doesn't go to the canister but runs very close to the canister vent pipe so looks like it does, it actually runs to the carburetor and is your main fuel line (hence the silver fuel filter) but as you've still got the airbox it's hard to see. You definitely don't want to disconnect that

The vent pipe from the canister drops down and around through the pan - just where you want to run your new pipe. It goes from the rear of the canister so is hard to see while the canister is in place. You don't have to worry about it at first as it should come out with the canister at which point it's a lot easier to see.

and the other looks like it's coming from the air box into the canister (has sensor plug)

This is the one you need to block off but leave in place so the sensor will still think everything is ok.

 

[PistonBlown]

Here you go:

Pipe marked with a red line is the main fuel line which you don't want to change - you can see where it goes without the air filter in place.

Pipe marked in purple is the sensor pipe which you need to block off once you've removed it from the canister

Pipe marked in green in the breather from the tank that you need to extend and run out of the engine bay

 

[gfd1182]

Thx!
tmrw when I'm home I will try to map out a plan of action

appreciate your help!

 

[gfd1182]

Here you go:

Pipe marked with a red line is the main fuel line which you don't want to change - you can see where it goes without the air filter in place.

Pipe marked in purple is the sensor pipe which you need to block off once you've removed it from the canister

Pipe marked in green in the breather from the tank that you need to extend and run out of the engine bay

Your are the man!
thx a million!!!
wish u lived around here so we could ride :f_spider:

 

[gfd1182]

Here you go:

Pipe marked with a red line is the main fuel line which you don't want to change - you can see where it goes without the air filter in place.

Pipe marked in purple is the sensor pipe which you need to block off once you've removed it from the canister

Pipe marked in green in the breather from the tank that you need to extend and run out of the engine bay

can I join the existing breather line with a fuel filter to the vent pipe
since it's already runned through the outside of the vehicle ?

 

[PistonBlown]

can I join the existing breather line with a fuel filter to the vent pipe
since it's already runned through the outside of the vehicle ?

Yep if it's long enough after you've removed it from the canister you can use it. I think I got the bits together before removing the canister and bought the pipe as I wasn't sure if the existing breather line would be long enough.

 

[PistonBlown]

Your are the man!
thx a million!!!
wish u lived around here so we could ride :f_spider:

Well you should pop over with NitroCircus Spyder. Their from Austin, Texas as well and are coming over to NZ later in the year We're hoping they're going to join us on a local Spyder run.

 

[gfd1182]

Well you should pop over with NitroCircus Spyder. Their from Austin, Texas as well and are coming over to NZ later in the year We're hoping they're going to join us on a local Spyder run.

I just wanted to say thank you again!:clap:
with your help I was able to do the "cansiterectomy" and to my delight no more fumes!!
i was beginning to dread riding , the fuel smell gave me a migraine :!

while I had the bike exposed I changed the gaskets on the y pipe to hondas
and I did my "own oil change"
bajaron provided w fast friendly delivery
and superb customer service! :2thumbs::2thumbs:
i can't imagine how much the dealer would of charged me for doing this service :banghead:

I think my next job will be doing the plugs and wires
have u done this yet ?

GD

 

[PistonBlown]

I just wanted to say thank you again!:clap:
with your help I was able to do the "cansiterectomy" and to my delight no more fumes!!
i was beginning to dread riding , the fuel smell gave me a migraine :!

while I had the bike exposed I changed the gaskets on the y pipe to hondas
and I did my "own oil change"
bajaron provided w fast friendly delivery
and superb customer service! :2thumbs::2thumbs:
i can't imagine how much the dealer would of charged me for doing this service :banghead:

I think my next job will be doing the plugs and wires
have u done this yet ?

GD

Pleased that cured the petrol smell

Yes I've done my plugs and wires. Last time I fitted the Iridium plugs and better wires that Bajaron supplies. If you are going to do the plugs it's definitely worth changing the wires as the standard ones often start playing up after the sparks have been changed.

The only thing is if you bought this Spyder secondhand it's worth just checking they haven't already been replaced as it's a common alteration. The old wires are black, Bajarons replacements are normally red so it was easy to spot if they have been changed. However I've noticed he's now also selling black ones so it's not so obvious.

The only problem is that the air filter box makes changing them a bit of a mission, but of course if you do fit the Iridium plugs you don't have to worry about doing it again for 40,000 miles

 

[pegasus1300]

I have followed this thread with some interest both because I am going to do this mod to my Spyder but more importantly because of the patience and detail Piston Blown put in to taking gfd1182 thru this process. This is one of the reasons that I joined this happy group way back in 2012 three years before I actually bought my own Spyder. So thanks PistonBlown for helping to make this such a great place.:clap::yes::thumbup:

 

[gfd1182]

I have followed this thread with some interest both because I am going to do this mod to my Spyder but more importantly because of the patience and detail Piston Blown put in to taking gfd1182 thru this process. This is one of the reasons that I joined this happy group way back in 2012 three years before I actually bought my own Spyder. So thanks PistonBlown for helping to make this such a great place.:clap::yes::thumbup:

:thumbup::bowdown::firstplace: