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Air compressor repair

SpyderJerry

Member
When my compressor stopped working I thought I was going to replace it with an aftermarket unit. But I watched Granpot's video on the replacement and decided to inspect mine first. As happended to his also happened to mine and I suspect many others. The crank fell off the motor shaft. I removed the cylinder head, as you need to have that and the connecting rod removed to tighten the crank set screw. I removed the cover(4) screws, heated crank with heat gun to release locktite to remove the set screw. The crankshaft rod bolt is very small and easy to twist off. Note: it is LEFT HAND THREAD. heated the crank again with heat gun to carefully worked the rod bolt loose to remove. I then used locktite 648 on the crank to shaft and regular red locktite on set screw. Also used red locktite on the connecting rod screw. The connecting rod screw has a male torx head. Unit has worked well ever since(over a month). Hope this helps some owners.
 
That's a very goo blow-by-blow description of the repair. And congrats on doing it successfully.
 
I changed mine with the VIAIR model # 95c week before last. I had to drill and tap new holes in order to turn check valve 180
degrees. Unlike the model everyone's used this one has no issues with the brake lines and works like a champ. Oh, it also doesn't blow any fuses.
 
When my compressor stopped working I thought I was going to replace it with an aftermarket unit. But I watched Granpot's video on the replacement and decided to inspect mine first. As happended to his also happened to mine and I suspect many others. The crank fell off the motor shaft. I removed the cylinder head, as you need to have that and the connecting rod removed to tighten the crank set screw. I removed the cover(4) screws, heated crank with heat gun to release locktite to remove the set screw. The crankshaft rod bolt is very small and easy to twist off. Note: it is LEFT HAND THREAD. heated the crank again with heat gun to carefully worked the rod bolt loose to remove. I then used locktite 648 on the crank to shaft and regular red locktite on set screw. Also used red locktite on the connecting rod screw. The connecting rod screw has a male torx head. Unit has worked well ever since(over a month). Hope this helps some owners.

I'll put mine in the post when it happens :)
 
I changed mine with the VIAIR model # 95c week before last. I had to drill and tap new holes in order to turn check valve 180
degrees. Unlike the model everyone's used this one has no issues with the brake lines and works like a champ. Oh, it also doesn't blow any fuses.

Just curious what fuses were blowing on yours? My compressor quit I didn't replace it but had my rear shock replaced with an elka2 and now I'm getting a C0040 code and my vcm fuse blows
Thanks
Leon
 
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Just curious what fuses were blowing on yours? My compressor quit I didn't replace it but had my rear shock replaced with an elka2 and now I'm getting a C0040 code and my vcm fuse blows
Thanks
Leon

Stupid question, but did you unplug your compressor?
 
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I followed the wires from the pump and disconnected the plug, if I remember right! My pump went south on me and I made it a manual fill, I unhooked the pump and never looked back, no codes.
 
Just curious what fuses were blowing on yours? My compressor quit I didn't replace it but had my rear shock replaced with an elka2 and now I'm getting a C0040 code and my vcm fuse blows
Thanks
Leon

BRP went to two fuse boxes in the frunk on 2012 and later. Mine original video was for a 2011. If you install the aftermarket compressor on the later models, you need to view my video about the compressor fuses.
 
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Just curious what fuses were blowing on yours? My compressor quit I didn't replace it but had my rear shock replaced with an elka2 and now I'm getting a C0040 code and my vcm fuse blows
Thanks
Leon

No fuses blew out. I was merely saying that those who used the Viair 97c had issues with fuse blowing out because that model draws higher amperage. The 95c I used draws the same amps as the OE compressor.
 
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