-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Aftermarket Sprocket
- Thread starter Antonio
- Start date
spyderinkc
New member
I saw this on Ebay as well. I wonder if it makes a difference?
chasbadger
New member
30 point sproket
I also saw them on e-bay. I checked them out, talked to several friends that work for transmission shops and they said that it would drop the rpm's by 400 to 450 rpm's. I read that the new RT run's about that 400 to 450 rpm's lower, maybe that is how they got the rpm's down on the new machines. If they use the same sprocket in the rear. Some where I read that the new RT's run about 400 to 450 rpm's, this is what the final drive is for the 08 & 09 spyders 28/79 so if you change to a 30 tooth up front your rpm's should go down and still have good performance. but like every thing else they are expensive. (Several Hundred or so.)
chasbadger
I also saw them on e-bay. I checked them out, talked to several friends that work for transmission shops and they said that it would drop the rpm's by 400 to 450 rpm's. I read that the new RT run's about that 400 to 450 rpm's lower, maybe that is how they got the rpm's down on the new machines. If they use the same sprocket in the rear. Some where I read that the new RT's run about 400 to 450 rpm's, this is what the final drive is for the 08 & 09 spyders 28/79 so if you change to a 30 tooth up front your rpm's should go down and still have good performance. but like every thing else they are expensive. (Several Hundred or so.)
chasbadger
Freddy
Active member
30T sprocket
I fitted one a month ago. Seems good so far with lower fuel consumption. My only concern is the life of the splined hub. Others have had a few probs with the OEM steel one. I applied this moly grease to the spline when I fitted mine.
http://www.guarddogmolylubricants.com/gd570.shtml
I fitted one a month ago. Seems good so far with lower fuel consumption. My only concern is the life of the splined hub. Others have had a few probs with the OEM steel one. I applied this moly grease to the spline when I fitted mine.
http://www.guarddogmolylubricants.com/gd570.shtml
How many RPMs did you drop? How much better MPG? Any noticable performance loss? Thanks
RAL
Freddy
Active member
About 500 at 110kpm. I was getting about 13km per litre, or less, now get over 14.
The most noticable change is starting off, I have to slip the clutch a little more or it is easier to stall. If needing more acceleration to overtake a truck, I just drop to 4th and VAROOM.
I'm quite happy with it and consider it an improvement on stock.
Freddy
Active member
Nothing, as it reads from the rear wheel.
ataDude
Mod Maniac
.
Are you sure? I thought the speed sensor was embedded in the transmission. I don't have my manual anymore to look it up, though.
.
SilverSurfer
RT-S PE#0391
Sprocket: Before making the decision
I can easily see the logic of upgrading from a 28-tooth to a 29 or 30-tooth sprocket to lower rpms and save a bit of fuel. However, before making the decision to do so, I wanted to know two things: (1) My Spyder RT-S PE (391) is brand new and I've not driven it at high speed on the highway. Need to get an impression of that to see if it's what I really want to do. (2) I wanted to see what BRP had to say about it; both techinically and with regard to warranty. I sent tech support an e-mail and was answered telephonically the next day by "Carlo" who said he couldn't offer an opinon technically or regarding performance. Regarding warranty, he said the Spyder Warranty covers defects on the bike, and whilst the aftermarket sprocket doesn't void the warranty, the warranty would not cover any damages brought about from using it or breaking something while putting it on. Makes sense. So that leads me to my next question. (4) Is there a how-to on how to do the upgrade? ... and finally, (5) has anyone done this upgrade on an SE5? Thanxx :spyder:
I can easily see the logic of upgrading from a 28-tooth to a 29 or 30-tooth sprocket to lower rpms and save a bit of fuel. However, before making the decision to do so, I wanted to know two things: (1) My Spyder RT-S PE (391) is brand new and I've not driven it at high speed on the highway. Need to get an impression of that to see if it's what I really want to do. (2) I wanted to see what BRP had to say about it; both techinically and with regard to warranty. I sent tech support an e-mail and was answered telephonically the next day by "Carlo" who said he couldn't offer an opinon technically or regarding performance. Regarding warranty, he said the Spyder Warranty covers defects on the bike, and whilst the aftermarket sprocket doesn't void the warranty, the warranty would not cover any damages brought about from using it or breaking something while putting it on. Makes sense. So that leads me to my next question. (4) Is there a how-to on how to do the upgrade? ... and finally, (5) has anyone done this upgrade on an SE5? Thanxx :spyder:
Firefly
Active member
I'm not sure they changed either sprocket configuration on the RT --- it has a different engine that may be tuned/geared differently.
My concern would be what did they make this new sprocket out of?
I would think you would want the sprocket made softer than the splined shaft--- so it will wear instead of the shaft.
Not anything I'll be changing.....
My concern would be what did they make this new sprocket out of?
I would think you would want the sprocket made softer than the splined shaft--- so it will wear instead of the shaft.
Not anything I'll be changing.....
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
There is a lot more to good mileage than just engine rpm. The engine has to be running in it's most efficient rpm range, and the drag from wind resistance and rolling friction has much more effect, especially at speed, than the engine efficiency. Drag increases as an exponential function of the speed, so if you want better mileage, slow down 5 mph.
The 29 tooth sprocket would only decrease engine speed at highway speeds by 300-400 rpm. Not enough to matter, IMO. When you get your RT out on the highway, you will notice that it seems quite dead at lower rpm, so you may not like the performance results of your change. This bike comes alive at five grand! A 30 tooth sprocket would double the rpm drop, but it would also get you very near the end of the belt adjustment. That is not something that I would really desire, myself.
I'd suggest that you ride your RT a while, then decide. Be aware that any gains will be small ones. You will not change the RT-S into a 40 mpg machine by changing gear ratios...or even adding an overdrive. Aerodynamics is function of the physics of the object passing through the air...and physics cannot be overcome.
ataDude
Mod Maniac
:hun: :hun: :hun:
Firefly
Active member
Yup--- someone who owns one can chime in with the specs---- but it's a different engine.... a bit less HP... and 'fly by wire' throttle control.
Similar threads
