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Aftermarket HIDs on Spyder RT

F

FryGuy

New member
I have Installed 6000k Light Purple HID s on headlights (H7) and Fogs (H8) they are 35 watts each. They are from www.v-hids.com I have bought these kits for all my vehicles and have no problems other then a few ballast failures.
My spyder don't like them at all. I can run the headlights and all is fine. The moment I turn on the fogs she dies (Fog HIDs are wired right and do work). The cluster displays faults on all systems. Turn off fogs, Turn off key and start after a short wait and all is fine. Too much peak current on the HIDs for the relay(s)? Any Ideas of what is wrong and how to fix? :dontknow:

High Performance Ballast Specs:​

  • Efficiency: > 95%
  • Wave shape: square wave
  • output: 35W
  • Frequency of steady state: 400hz
  • Starting input voltage: 9-16v
  • Max. output current: < 2.3A
  • Operating input voltage: 7-19V
  • Min. output current: more than 0.3A
  • Max.input current: less than 8.5 A (Peak Current)
  • Open circuit voltage: 400VDC
  • Input current: less than 1.46A
  • Ignition voltage: more than 23kV
  • Nominal lamp voltage: 85VAC
  • Stabilization time: less than 1 min.
  • Ripple voltage: less than 5V　　
  • Operation temperature: -40 to 105 ℃ or 221 °F
  • Storage temperature: -50 to 125 ℃ or 257 °F
  • Size (unit: mm): (L) 70 x (W) 63 x (H) 14.5
 
FryGuy said:
I have Installed 6000k Light Purple HID s on headlights (H7) and Fogs (H8) they are 35 watts each. They are from www.v-hids.com I have bought these kits for all my vehicles and have no problems other then a few ballast failures.
My spyder don't like them at all. I can run the headlights and all is fine. The moment I turn on the fogs she dies (Fog HIDs are wired right and do work). The cluster displays faults on all systems. Turn off fogs, Turn off key and start after a short wait and all is fine. Too much peak current on the HIDs for the relay(s)? Any Ideas of what is wrong and how to fix? :dontknow:

High Performance Ballast Specs:​

  • Efficiency: > 95%
  • Wave shape: square wave
  • output: 35W
  • Frequency of steady state: 400hz
  • Starting input voltage: 9-16v
  • Max. output current: < 2.3A
  • Operating input voltage: 7-19V
  • Min. output current: more than 0.3A
  • Max.input current: less than 8.5 A (Peak Current)
  • Open circuit voltage: 400VDC
  • Input current: less than 1.46A
  • Ignition voltage: more than 23kV
  • Nominal lamp voltage: 85VAC
  • Stabilization time: less than 1 min.
  • Ripple voltage: less than 5V　　
  • Operation temperature: -40 to 105 ℃ or 221 °F
  • Storage temperature: -50 to 125 ℃ or 257 °F
  • Size (unit: mm): (L) 70 x (W) 63 x (H) 14.5
Click to expand...

Too much draw...why didn't you go with ESI's lights? They are in hundreds of bikes and work perfectly...
 
bone crusher said:
Too much draw...why didn't you go with ESI's lights? They are in hundreds of bikes and work perfectly...
Click to expand...

Didn't know about them until now. Mainly just went with what I've used before.
So I need a Relay harness for the fogs?
 
Last edited:
FryGuy said:
Didn't know about them until now. Mainly just went with what I've used before.
So I need a Relay harness for the fogs?
Click to expand...

I have the ESI/Custom Dynamics head and fog lights... I still had issues with them... things I had to do - install a ground wire on the coil, keep the ballasts away from the frame, wireloom all the wires for the foglights (all to deal with electrical noise from the ballasts) and use different bulbs... I have 8000k bulbs in both head/foglights...

good luck...
 
Are the ballast you are using digital or analog? Analog puts out an RF (radio frequency) that plays havoc on a spyder. Ask me how I know?:roflblack::roflblack: Make sure your ballast are (slim) digital.
 
Capt John said:
Are the ballast you are using digital or analog? Analog puts out an RF (radio frequency) that plays havoc on a spyder. Ask me how I know?:roflblack::roflblack: Make sure your ballast are (slim) digital.
Click to expand...

They are the slim digital. My guess is that the stock harness has too small of wire gauge for the peak current draw for lamp ignition, Fogs are fused for 10 amps (headlights 30 amp) and peak current for lamp ignition is about 15 amps (combined about 30 amps plus the rest of the circuit draw). This peak current draw is not long enough for the fuse to blow. But It causes too much voltage drop in the harness for the computer to work during the already low voltage condition by the starter motor operating compounding the possibility of computer problems during start-up. The bike is new but an 09 model, could have a weak battery too. I will pull out the fluke DMM tomorrow if its nice out and do some testing.
 
FryGuy said:
They are the slim digital. My guess is that the stock harness has too small of wire gauge for the peak current draw for lamp ignition, Fogs are fused for 10 amps (headlights 30 amp) and peak current for lamp ignition is about 15 amps (combined about 30 amps plus the rest of the circuit draw). This peak current draw is not long enough for the fuse to blow. But It causes too much voltage drop in the harness for the computer to work during the already low voltage condition by the starter motor operating compounding the possibility of computer problems during start-up. The bike is new but an 09 model, could have a weak battery too. I will pull out the fluke DMM tomorrow if its nice out and do some testing.
Click to expand...

I have noticed when I first start up the spyder, if my fog lights are turned on sometimes one or the other headlight will not light up. This does not occur very much after the spyder has been run for awhile. If I have the fog lights turned off when I start it. No problems with the headlight at all. I have just got in the habit of turning my fogs off before I start her up.
 
Last edited:
FryGuy said:
I have Installed 6000k Light Purple HID s on headlights (H7) and Fogs (H8) they are 35 watts each. They are from www.v-hids.com I have bought these kits for all my vehicles and have no problems other then a few ballast failures.
My spyder don't like them at all. I can run the headlights and all is fine. The moment I turn on the fogs she dies (Fog HIDs are wired right and do work). The cluster displays faults on all systems. Turn off fogs, Turn off key and start after a short wait and all is fine. Too much peak current on the HIDs for the relay(s)? Any Ideas of what is wrong and how to fix? :dontknow:

High Performance Ballast Specs:​

  • Efficiency: > 95%
  • Wave shape: square wave
  • output: 35W
  • Frequency of steady state: 400hz
  • Starting input voltage: 9-16v
  • Max. output current: < 2.3A
  • Operating input voltage: 7-19V
  • Min. output current: more than 0.3A
  • Max.input current: less than 8.5 A (Peak Current)
  • Open circuit voltage: 400VDC
  • Input current: less than 1.46A
  • Ignition voltage: more than 23kV
  • Nominal lamp voltage: 85VAC
  • Stabilization time: less than 1 min.
  • Ripple voltage: less than 5V　　
  • Operation temperature: -40 to 105 ℃ or 221 °F
  • Storage temperature: -50 to 125 ℃ or 257 °F
  • Size (unit: mm): (L) 70 x (W) 63 x (H) 14.5
Click to expand...

I would try the ESI ones--- although I've also had good luck with these:

http://www.kbcarstuff.com/HID_Kits_s/216.htm
 
Problem Solved

Problem completely solved. I built a custom relay harness all in loom kept it as far away any stock wiring (may not have been necessary for power wires). The main problem was the ballast location of the main lights. The bike does NOT like them (High voltage wires) anywhere near the gauge cluster or main wiring harness. The ballast are now on the flat spot down on the air duct for radiator and oil cooler. I can even start both head lights and fog lights with no problems on start-up (so far :pray:).
 
New HIDs

I just purchased and installed a slim digital set for my RT headlights from a US supplier on Ebay for $42.00 shipped to the house. They work so good I have ordered another set for my fog lights with the appropriate bulbs for $42.00.
Total project cost $84.00 compared to $500.00----it was a no brainer, and installation was plug & play.
C-YA RL
 
Last edited:
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