Advise on 2013 ST

[Mahaflac]

I am itching to move to 3 wheels. I have been researching and have almost changed my mind about a Can Am product. I have been on two wheels for 40 years and have had no trips to the mechanic to speak of. I am looking at a 2013 ST with 9000 miles but it seems that the 2013’s have some issues. They are asking $9100 for this unit and it seems to run okay. Just nervous about purchasing a 2013. Thoughts?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

considerations

I am itching to move to 3 wheels. I have been researching and have almost changed my mind about a Can Am product. I have been on two wheels for 40 years and have had no trips to the mechanic to speak of. I am looking at a 2013 ST with 9000 miles but it seems that the 2013’s have some issues. They are asking $9100 for this unit and it seems to run okay. Just nervous about purchasing a 2013. Thoughts?View attachment 158642View attachment 158643View attachment 158644

#1... if you haven't ridden the models with the 1330 engine ( 2014 and up ) you had better or you may discover later that you Should have #2..... BRP no longer puts the V-twin in any Spyder ,.... they make parts for them but that engine is no longer in their future plans .... That's re-sale killer .....#3. It's more expensive to maintain and the frequency of routine service is more ...... good luck ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[d.o.spyder-rts]

:agree: with Mike. The 1330 is a much better engine that requires less maintenance. Good luck with whatever you decide. Dale

 

[GearHd]

First question, what do you ride for a motorcycle? Reason I ask is because if it isn't a cruiser with forward-ish controls you're probably going to dislike the seating/leg position of a F3 with the 1330 engine. I know I/we disliked it.

2nd, are you a tourer rider? If so, maybe you'll like an RT with the 1330 engine.

Now to answer the ST questions. I know I/we really liked the seating position of the 14 ST-L we have. We both sat on the F3 and really disliked it. The main issue with the 13's is the heat issue but you can usually get the dealer to install the "airflow" panels if you complain about the heat. And I really don't think you'll have problems getting parts for a long time, I wouldn't let that sway me from buying it. And the price they're asking seems very reasonable to me depending on the actual condition. I see it's an SM5 so that brings down the price slightly. I've been doing all the maintenace myself on ours and haven't found it that difficult to do but I was also a motorcycle tech in the past so I know my way around motorcycles.

 

[JayBros]

Vigorously test ride all models, particularly those with the 1330 ACE engine. Mike makes three very valid points.

You come from many years of two wheel riding. A Spyder does not handle like a two wheeler; realize it and accept it. You are going to have to learn how to ryde a Spyder and it may take a thousand or so miles; realize it and accept it. Unless you are one of a small minority you will eventually come to enjoy the Y factor. Good luck!

 

[Chupaca]

All boils down to....

you really have to test ryde the availble models to get a better idea. Most here will steer you to the 2014 and up models with the 1330 triple engine so by all means try them out. F3 is a cruiser stretched out seating and the RT is a tourer upright seating. The ST is a cross between the original spyder sport model and the RT. I do prefer the twin 998 with the 5 speed and the sport ryding position. But Hey....that's why you have to test ryde them....:thumbup:

 

[Mahaflac]

Continue the comments coming

I have the option of also buying a 2012 RS with 9000 miles at $8500. . I do not know enough to make an intelligent decision on this. I know my way around a motorcycle and usually feel really confident making decisions. Thus, asking advice here.

I have riden sports tourning bikes, big touring bikes, crusers and many styles in between. I have also been on the Spyder’s for short period of times. I really like the neutral riding position the best. I don’t mind a more aggressive riding position but at 50 it is harder on my body. I love the way the Spyder handles and I am confident I will love the machine. I can foresee how much fun this will be.

Thanks for for the help and every opinion matters to me as I want both sides of the picture. The dealership has one 2014 model available but the price jumps up considerably. When I research this I find many 2013’s available and all of them have low miles. That is a Ted flag to me. I may be looking at this wrong. I find fewer 2014+ models and the price is much higher for comparable models.

Continue with the valid points.

 

[blacklightning]

I have the option of also buying a 2012 RS with 9000 miles at $8500. . I do not know enough to make an intelligent decision on this. I know my way around a motorcycle and usually feel really confident making decisions. Thus, asking advice here.

I have riden sports tourning bikes, big touring bikes, crusers and many styles in between. I have also been on the Spyder’s for short period of times. I really like the neutral riding position the best. I don’t mind a more aggressive riding position but at 50 it is harder on my body. I love the way the Spyder handles and I am confident I will love the machine. I can foresee how much fun this will be.

Thanks for for the help and every opinion matters to me as I want both sides of the picture. The dealership has one 2014 model available but the price jumps up considerably. When I research this I find many 2013’s available and all of them have low miles. That is a Ted flag to me. I may be looking at this wrong. I find fewer 2014+ models and the price is much higher for comparable models.

Continue with the valid points.

I think your own comments should help govern your choice. I have owned a 2014 RT, a 2012 RSS and now have a 2016 F3T. It all boils down to what riding position you like best, and how you plan to ride the bike. With you stating that you like the neutral riding position, that would tell me that the ST might be the one for you. You don't say if the RS is a SM or SE transmission. That will help you make the choice. The SM transmissions are not bad, but you just realize that there will be quite a drop in trade in or resale value. Either way, test ride them both and chose wisely. For me, if the RS is a manual, I would probably go with the ST and have them do the cooling mod. Good luck.

 

[Rob Rodriguez]

If you like a more "neutral" seating position I'd go with the ST. The RS is similar but a bit more bent over / legs back "sport" position. The RT will be a more "neutral" position as well but the price will be more because there is so much "stuff" attached to the RT.

I personally wouldn't hesitate to buy an Spyder with the 998 twin. In my opinion there is no performance gain with the 1330. Might be less maintenance but seems like a small thing to me to have an oil change every 4600 miles.

The re-sale on most Spyders is terrible regardless of the model or engine size so to me that seems like a non issue.

 

[Mahaflac]

The 2012 RS And the 2013 ST are both Manual. There is one 2014 RS-S-SE5 that I am looking at. I don’t mind the Manual because that is all I know. I may really like the automatic.

 

[Bfromla]

All good points above, few extra: the ST is a great machine, I also do not have the updated panels & don't seem to need. I mostly ride solo & can not comment to passenger comfort , your pics did show the sports rack & back rest. :thumbup: A pricy additions after the fact & more so if you want extra storage with a top case. Any machine will work better longer if you keep up with periodic maintenance, 998 is no different just out of favor with new 1330 around. The higher RPM does take some getting use to but, that's u not the bike. My limited has the floor boards alowing me to adjust seating have considered (not got)highway pegs, & managed to find other farkles, I'm mostly stock mechanically, 41+k miles of smiles. Check with dealer about extended warranty & if all recalls & campaigns (not mandatory fixes) have been done as well. & having a great bike under $10k :clap::2thumbs: gives you more room for trips & farkles :yes::cheers: hopes this helps
see your close to Palestine, cool FYI good dealer H&W marine there & Little Loyds small engine shop that can give you more tips

 

[Mahaflac]

Recommended Valve Check

I am reading that there is a recommended valve check at 20,000 miles which would involve pulling the engine. Is this correct? I would imagine that this is expensive. How accurate is this and how necessary?

 

[Rob Rodriguez]

I am reading that there is a recommended valve check at 20,000 miles which would involve pulling the engine. Is this correct? I would imagine that this is expensive. How accurate is this and how necessary?

Don't have to pull the engine to do the check. You do have to pull the air filter and some other stuff but all that stuff is replaced at 20K miles anyway so its already being taken apart in those areas. I've been told the cost for a valve check is about $800. I've also been told most people don't have it done. Those that have had it done have reported here that everything was fine even if doing the check at higher miles. I'm just under 20K so I'l have to decide soon what to do myself.

 

[fulltimer]

And my 2 cents is;

We have '13 STL SE (automatic) and really love it. I came from the world of Gold Wings so adjusting to the 998 took a little time but I have come to love that engine. The gears are very long which makes riding a dream. I have had the heat issue fixed and no other problems that WEREN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. The seat sucks after 10M miles but and easy fix with Airhawks. We ride 2 up most of the time and both like the riding position.
DON'T BE AFRAID OF THE 998 ROTAX engine. It will be around for a long time. I'm not saying not to try the 1330 but pick the one you like.

 

[GearHd]

You don't pull the engine for a valve check but most body work and airbox need to be removed. And my manual says valve check is at 14k miles.

 

[loisk]

I also rode a variety of two wheels for decades. I have had an Rs, 13 st-l and now f3s.

An additional piece of input is that I find the f3s the best (and no, I don't have my feet sticking out the front). It seems most like 2 wheels in the riding style to me, because centrifugal forces that wanted to toss me off the Rs/st are way less apparent on the f3s - sitting lower etc, makes riding the bends a real joy.

Another point which may may have been mentioned is that adjustments to foot peg/bar positions to suit you are cheap and easy on the f3s range, versus expensive (bars) or impossible (pegs) on the Rs/st.

Hope this helps, and have fun. Best thing I ever did was change to a spyder!

 

[Mahaflac]

I’m a poor school teacher. I only dream of an F3. But until then......

 

[ARtraveler]

I am reading that there is a recommended valve check at 20,000 miles which would involve pulling the engine. Is this correct? I would imagine that this is expensive. How accurate is this and how necessary?

RE: Valve check. I have been with the brand from day one. Got the first GS sold to a customer in AK. (June 2008). Put deposit in on 10 2007.

Have had five total. Last was the 1330 RT-S--and still in the stable.

Valve checks recommended at 14K intervals for the 990/998 twins. If you do them, it will cost you an extra $800 along with your $300 oil change service. I did two of them (14K on the 2008 and at 28K on the 2010. In both cases, neither needed any attention. We are letting the 2011 go until at least 50K. The 2014 (1330's) no longer require valve adjustment services. It your money, its your choice.

Others have given good reasons for NOT getting a 990/998. These are all good machines and it really depends on what you like best. Test rides are highly recommended. Do some due diligence and make sure you check what the prices are in your area. On a 2014 or younger, the dealer may be asking $1K or more above what you should be paying. The magic price is somewhere between trade in and retail. Private party is where most of the action takes place. There is usually a $4K gap to "play" with in the "blue book" numbers.

Good luck on your hunt. :yes:

 

[Tazzel]

I think the ST is a good entry spyder. I have a couple of fiends that own them and they love them. The only thing I have heard about them is that they are hot in the summer. Make sure they have the updated heat panels that should have been replaced under warranty.

 

[nwrider]

I recently purchased a 2013 Spyder ST-s SE with 2100 miles, the optional bags and back rest, fog lamps and 1 yr left on the warranty for $10k from a private party. I've put on just over 900 miles on it in less than a month. Prior to buying the ST I rented an RT with the Rotax engine + I owned an Aprilia Caponord with the same engine -- they are bullet proof. For me, at over 6' and a 32" inseam, the F3 seating position was terrible and the RT puts me too close to the handlebar. The ST however has one of the best seating positions I've ever experienced in 56 years of riding on two wheels and over 60 lifetime motorcycles to compare it to.

Since I purchased the ST I've added a Bajaron sway bar and Fox Podium R front shocks made for the F3. I don't like the Spyder as well as my motorcycles, however, I'm having a lot of fun with it and it's safer for my passenger and me with 3 on the ground.

My advice is not to be in a hurry -- check Craigslist often and take the advice of others here and test ride them all if you can before making your decision.

As always YMMV.