Advice on an Aftermarket Warranty

[MrSchaefer]

Hey Spyderlovers!

I am picking up a 2013 Spyder ST with 2k miles on it later this week from a local dealership. As part of the purchase I have the option for a 3yr unlimited mileage warranty for $995. I'm wondering what your opinion is.. is that worth it? I'm attaching the insert on the warranty that lists some of what it covers (it's essentially bumper to bumper except for wear and tear items and has some other things like roadside assistance, etc).

My anticipated use is about 2-3k miles a year (Minnesota has a shorter riding season than most places).

Thanks!
-Schaefer

 

[RICZ]

The problem with third party warranties is if that company goes out of business, you are out of luck and $995. Your bike is too old for the BRP B.E.S.T. warranty, so if you feel the need for one, do your research to make certain you are buying from a solid company.

 

[JayBros]

Your OP may not be actually what YOU think it is. Read very carefully the writing in blue particularly that part about the company repairing parts that are deemed defective due to manufacturer's defect. The list of parts shown includes a whole pot full of parts that the warranty probably considers normal wear and tear items, like disc brake rotors, all of the bearings, many of the seals, ball joints and bushings. Exactly HOW does the contract work; you show a simple advertising brochure. How does the warranty work? Does it require you to have the bike repaired, pay the full freight and then submit the repair paperwork to see what the company will pay or reimburse you for. Have you done a search on the web for how the company is rated by the BBB? How much is the deductible per repair claim? How much of a commission does the dealership that sells you the warranty receive from the company? My opinion is I wouldn't touch it with a very long along pole. Here's the situation you face purchasing a seven year old bike with very low mileage: many parts have sat for a long time and once they start getting used again and you are going to ride only 2 - 3 grand a year you can expect dry rot and premature leaks and those sorts of problems aren't a manufacturer's defect. How about the tires? Is the dealership including three new ones in the sale? I sure wouldn't ride on seven year old tires. Good luck!

 

[KenInMN]

Don't waste your money on third part warranty. They are a huge money maker for those that sell them.

 

[MrSchaefer]

All valid points. I’ve dealt with good and bad aftermarket warranties (my GMC Acadia has one that has covered almost $20k in repairs to date turning a lemon into a driveable vehicle). This warranty does a preapproval process with $0 deductible and no maximum

The company in use here has been around since 1985 and has an A+ with the better business bureau

My question was more specific to the Spyder itself. Like “this is a good idea because these things blow such and such a sensor or have shaky transmissions that are expensive to repair” etc.

I’m handy and maintain my own vehicles when possible.. visually this thing is clean and very obviously well looked after (though not ridden much).. aside from the heating issues if these are built pretty solid and able to be worked on without an advanced engineering degree I’d be inclined to skip the warranty.. but if there are common nightmare repairs waiting for me I’d rather have some measure of my protection budgeted in.

 

[RICZ]

If you know how to spin wrenches, get a shop manual and ride the thing. Hang around this forum, there's a ton of good info here and you'll be OK. Oh, and $995 wealthier.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If you know how to spin wrenches, get a shop manual and ride the thing. Hang around this forum, there's a ton of good info here and you'll be OK. Oh, and $995 wealthier.

:agree: about the cautions others have noted, especially what JayBros wrote …. the other thing is cost vs. what that spyder is actually worth.... the 998 is no longer made for sale , yes parts are still available, but that won't continue forever ….. jmho ….good luck …. Mike hyea:

 

[Knight]

First off, this is a service contract, not a warranty. You'll notice that nowhere on their paperwork or advertising do they refer to themselves as a warranty provider. That's because they aren't.

Statistically speaking, more often than not, most service contract holders will end up spending more on the contract than they would for repairs. In this particular case, Aftercare has chosen to provide service contracts (or, to use their term, rental agreements) on powersports equipment, which most people who own rarely use. Looking at their sample agreement, what stands out to me is their coverage period is negotiable time-wise, but mileage-wise it's marked as "unlimited."

The other thing I notice in their contract is that for a used vehicle, you are obligated to change the engine oil & filter every 12 months/3,000 miles, lubricate the swing arm every 3,000 miles, & check & adjust the valves (carburetor also if equipped) every 6,000 miles, *and* provide proof that you did so.

Finally - and this is a good general rule for service contracts, not just this one - there is no such thing as bumper-to-bumper coverage. There are always exceptions to every contract, and in this case, being a named exclusion contract, they have exactly 27 of them. Most notable are these three:

3. Seals, o-rings and gaskets on USED VEHICLES unless required to repair a MECHANICAL BREAKDOWN of another covered part.

5. Batteries, bulbs, tires, spark plugs, anodes, brake pads or shoes, brake drums, cables, hoses, fuses, final drive chains or belts, final drive sprockets, air filters, oil filters, fluids (unless required to repair a MECHANICAL BREAKDOWN of another covered part), clutch plates, clutch belts, worn clutch faces, clutch weights, clutch rollers, clutch pins, clutch shims, clutch sheaves and bushings, audio components, GPS systems and displays, shock absorbers, external loose securing hardware, and failures due to external loose securing hardware, bent shift forks (unless caused by MECHANICAL BREAKDOWN of a covered part), bent valves (unless caused by MECHANICAL BREAKDOWN of a covered part), stuck valves due to carbon build-up, parts damaged due to dirty air filters or contaminated fuel, impeller, impeller liner and intake grills, mats, bumpers, body seals or gaskets, snowmobile skis, snowmobile tracks, wheels under snowmobile track, hyfax/slide rail, snowmobile clutch belts, parts damaged due to over revving (running above red-line), mirrors, non-mechanical parts, mower blades, mower blade clutch assemblies.

12. Failure of drive chains or belts, or damage due to drive chain or belt failure.

This is all actually pretty normal stuff as far as service contracts go, but still worth pointing out.

My opinion would be that unless you are using your Spyder as a daily driver, commuter, or some other purpose that would mean putting a *ton* of miles on to take full advantage of the unlimited miles clause, I'd put the money aside instead as a rainy-day fund in the event you need to cover a repair yourself. More likely than not, you won't spend it, and save yourself some, or all, of that $995.

Forgive me if my post's tone is a bit blunt, my intention is to inform, not berate. I swear pps:

 

[MrSchaefer]

Forgive me if my post's tone is a bit blunt, my intention is to inform, not berate. I swear pps:

That is quite literally why I asked..

I appreciate the perspective

 

[ARtraveler]

RE: Valve checks. Info above states they are needed every 6,000 miles. BRP recommencds 14,000 miles. If a dealer does them...it usually costs $1,000. Most on here DO NOT do them. It has been found that they are not needed in most cases. After 2014 (1330 cc) model...they are no longer required.

 

[JayBros]

I have never owned a 998 V-twin Spyder but from what I've been reading hereon since early 2014 I understand that a fairly common problem is leaks in vacuum lines going to the throttle body because of the quality of the hose material. It might be wise to expect such a problem given the age of the roadster you are buying. If I remember correctly the first symptom is a rough running engine but I'm sure there are some very knowledgeable folks who can provide much more detailed information on the problem.