Advice and suggestions for curves and Twisties?

[Peteoz]

Riding groups that REALLY care about riders that are new or with a drastically different new ride will put them at the FRONT of the pack and allow extra following distance and let them set the pace.

Riders who sprint away from their less experienced group members are NOT being good riding partners.

Just because riders at the front sprint away from less experienced riders definitely does not mean they are not good riding partners, Easy Rider. We pick a tail end Charlie (or Charlies) who don't care how long it takes to get "there", put the new rider(s) in front of them, and let the fast riders go at the front. That way everyone gets to ride at their own pace and has a good time, and there are never complaints at stops.:thumbup: It works an absolute treat for us. Mind you, we do INSIST that Ural riders start the ride several days before the rest of us

Pete

 

[Peter Aawen]

.... Mind you, we do INSIST that Ural riders start the ride several days before the rest of us.....

As you should! :thumbup:

 

[Wrongway]

Same feelings I had

Hi folks!
I've been enjoying the hell out of my F3-T. However, I am still pretty apprehensive to see what it can do on the curves and Twisties and take them rather slowly. I realize the "Nanny" mode would kick in to prevent a disaster and every circumstance is different but was hoping you could share your advice, suggestions, and experiences with the curves and Twisties.
Thanks!
SS

Reading your post is almost like I wrote it a month ago.
When we first got our RT about 6 weeks ago, the feeling of the cornering was so foreign to me after 50 years on 2 wheels.
After one ride my wife actually mentioned to me that it was very jerky through the sweeping curves. I did realize this but figured it was the nature of the beast.
I immediately went out on my own for a ride on a road with a lot of curves and finally the brain kicked in. I was looking at the front of the Spyder.
As soon as I started looking further ahead in the curves the same as I'd done for years on 2 wheels, all is smooth again.
I really felt stupid when I realized what was wrong and debated whether or not to embarass myself by even posting this but I suspect it's a common mistake.
Last friday I added the bajaron swaybar and links......OMG, I have a new Spyder. What a difference.
Anyway, enjoy your F3-T.

Greg

 

[Easy Rider]

Just because riders at the front sprint away from less experienced riders definitely does not mean they are not good riding partners, Easy Rider.

Sorry but we will just have to disagree on this......UNLESS the group is effectively split into two groups.

If that is not done, the "jack rabbit" behavior encourages those with lesser skills or experience to exceed their limitations........and is RUDE and potentially dangerous behavior. Showing off does NOT make a good riding partner.

 

[foxtail1]

Sorry but we will just have to disagree on this......UNLESS the group is effectively split into two groups.

If that is not done, the "jack rabbit" behavior encourages those with lesser skills or experience to exceed their limitations........and is RUDE and potentially dangerous behavior. Showing off does NOT make a good riding partner.

Agreed! On my first (and only) Harley group ride, as a new Harley rider, the group leaders led us on a merry chase, exceeding the speed limits from the start. Of course I tried to keep up. They even went way beyond the 45 mph speed limit on a stretch of the Blue Ridge Parkway. (Any wonder it was my only group ride?)

 

[Docster]

Sorry but we will just have to disagree on this......UNLESS the group is effectively split into two groups.

If that is not done, the "jack rabbit" behavior encourages those with lesser skills or experience to exceed their limitations........and is RUDE and potentially dangerous behavior. Showing off does NOT make a good riding partner.

:clap:Agree. Our club rides include a tailgunner but we always ride as a GROUP. For many reasons that's why it's called a GROUP ride.

 

[UtahPete]

Agree.Our club rides include a tailgunner but we always ride as a GROUP. For many reasons that's why it's called a GROUP ride.

It's not the only way to conduct a safe and sane group ryde, but those coming from a H.O.G. background seem to think otherwise.

In the twisties, in particular, trying to ride as a cohesive group is just begging for trouble.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

This discussion begs a response.

The MSF, GWRRA, and others have guidelines for group riding that are designed to ensure the group ride is first and foremost, SAFE. An unsafe ride is not fun, especially if someone crashes. First, a group needs to have a leader at the front and a tail gunner at the rear and have a means to communicate via radio. The group should be no more than 6 to 7 bikes. If the group is larger than about 13 or 14 it needs to be split into two smaller groups. The groups need to stay far enough apart to allow cars to pass and return to the lane in between the groups. The riders in a group need to stay close enough together to restrict cars from passing and inserting themselves between bikes. The riders should stay 1 to 2 seconds apart when in staggered formation and 2 to 3 seconds apart when in single file. Use staggered formation on the straight stretches and single file in the twisties. Staggered doesn't always work with trikes. The riders need to stay close enough so that hand signals from any one rider can be seen and repeated by the rider in front and particularly behind. The group should never try to ride faster than what the slowest rider is comfortable with. This may mean that there needs to be two or more separate groups each traveling at the speed they want with a clear understanding where they will all meet up periodically along the way and at the end.

There is a critical need for group riding training in the Spyder riders community. Group riding MUST NOT be a hap hazard gathering of bikes speeding along the highway. If you get into one get out as soon as you can and ride safely by yourself.

The ONLY exception to the above guidelines is an officially escorted ride where law enforcement provides traffic control.

 

[asp125]

We digress. On our group rides we never put beginners AT the front. 1. They don't know how to lead, 2. They don't know how to communicate hand signals, and 3. They aren't comfortable making the right decisions if they encounter hazards.

We usually put newbies in the middle "near" the front two or three advanced group leaders.

 

[UtahPete]

We digress. On our group rides we never put beginners AT the front. 1. They don't know how to lead, 2. They don't know how to communicate hand signals, and 3. They aren't comfortable making the right decisions if they encounter hazards. We usually put newbies in the middle "near" the front two or three advanced group leaders.

We're way off topic (riding the twisties); I've started a new thread re: group rides.

 

[Easy Rider]

In the twisties, in particular, trying to ride as a cohesive group is just begging for trouble.

A properly spaced group can still be "cohesive" because the spacing varies depending on conditions.
But that has to be explained and everybody in the group needs to understand.

Riding side by side is NOT good group riding technique......on ANY road.

Oh....and when your riding group is composed of 70 year olds and up......the spacing spreads out on almost ANY kind of curve in the road. :thumbup:

 

[Easy Rider]

The riders in a group need to stay close enough together to restrict cars from passing and inserting themselves between bikes.

I think the word "restrict" should be "discourage".

When on a bike/trike one should ALWAYS yield to a bigger vehicle that want your lane. ALWAYS.
Most of the time when that happens they need to turn right at the next intersection.......and they are gone; no problem.

And a really courteous and safe driver does that when in a car too.

 

[Easy Rider]

We digress. On our group rides we never put beginners AT the front.

Absolutely right......for a "formal" group ride.

A few friends getting together to go a few miles for lunch often is quite a different matter though.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I think the word "restrict" should be "discourage".

When on a bike/trike one should ALWAYS yield to a bigger vehicle that want your lane. ALWAYS.
Most of the time when that happens they need to turn right at the next intersection.......and they are gone; no problem.

And a really courteous and safe driver does that when in a car too.

Good point. :agree:

 

[CSI]

Speaking of riding the twisties....

Can the level of "nanny" be adjusted on a 2016 RT?

I was coming into the corners posted 30 at about 50.....about the time I would hit the apex and start rolling back into the throttle, the nanny would kick in.

Yes, I know how fast these particular corners can be taken at......the RT is the wife's ride.....I have an FJR, and normally enter those same turns at 55, exiting at 60 or better

 

[Peter Aawen]

Ppl

......Can the level of "nanny" be adjusted on a 2016 RT? ....

Simple answer - NO! Not on any of the Spyders.

Well, not unless you get an ECU re-flash done by someone who knows what they are doing!! :shocked:

But you CAN practice & learn to improve the smoothness of your corner entry; get your weight across & inside sooner; pull on the inside hand & press on the outside foot more; judge the steering angle better; maybe even adjust your tire pressure up or down a tad to better suit your ryding style (have you checked tread temps or used the 4psi rule to optimise your tire pressures for YOUR ryding yet?); and basically learn to ryde just below the Nanny's intervention thresholds instead.... :thumbup:

Clarification edit: the press on the outside foot does NOT involve moving any weight that way, it is purely a means by which you add to the pull on the inside handlebar in order to push your weight across to the inside of the corner. Your weight must move across the centreline of the bike into the inside of the corner, that requires something to push against & you need to keep that spot as low & as close to the centreline of the bike as you can to minimise the leverage it places onto the bike & the outside of the turn; so try to use your outside foot instead of your outside hand, cos using your hand to push against applies massive leverage up high & on the outside of the turn which thereby counteracts/negates the majority of any other weight transfer you may make.... The harder/faster/smoother you want to turn, the more weight you need to move across to the inside & if you can, get it down low too, so it doesn't act like the pendulum on a metronome swinging outwards up high as the turn progresses.

 

[Peteoz]

But you CAN practice & learn to improve the smoothness of your corner entry; get your weight across & inside sooner; pull on the inside hand & press on the outside foot more; :thumbup:

Peter, just by way of clarification, when you say “press on the outside foot more”, is that simply to help push your body weight to the inside better and sooner?

Pete

 

[Peter Aawen]

:thumbup: Spot On!! :thumbup:

 

[CSI]

Simple answer - NO! Not on any of the Spyders.

Well, not unless you get an ECU re-flash done by someone who knows what they are doing!! :shocked:

But you CAN practice & learn to improve the smoothness of your corner entry; get your weight across & inside sooner; pull on the inside hand & press on the outside foot more; judge the steering angle better; maybe even adjust your tire pressure up or down a tad to better suit your ryding style (have you checked tread temps or used the 4psi rule to optimise your tire pressures for YOUR ryding yet?); and basically learn to ryde just below the Nanny's intervention thresholds instead.... :thumbup:

I was asking out of curiosity, more than anything. My wife has had the nanny activate on her a couple of times, but I can get it to raise its ugly head pretty much at will. I don't ride it often, as I am still on two wheels.....but I was rather surprised how easy it will activate...of course, I was also running it into turns at the same speed as I do on my FJR.....I know, I know...I am comparing apples to oranges.

Regarding tire pressures, we have it set at 18 front, and 22 rear. Front still has the stock Kendas mounted, and a CT on the rear, and it has a BajaRon Sway bar. The sway bar helped immensely with body roll, btw.

 

[Easy Rider]

the nanny would kick in.

And do what exactly ?

AND......how dare you drag a thread back on topic !!! :roflblack: