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Adding Mods- Do I need to add a Powerbus

rsuthers

New member
I am planning on adding a Scopio alarm, Tripple Play, and Tipz--- Do I need to add a powerbus or anything special to add these mods? Is hooking up to the original wiring sufficient. Been reading a lot about low voltage...
 
The Triple Play and TIPZ are direct plug and play units requiring no additional such items to work properly.

MM
 
rsuthers said:
I am planning on adding a Scopio alarm, Tripple Play, and Tipz--- Do I need to add a powerbus or anything special to add these mods? Is hooking up to the original wiring sufficient. Been reading a lot about low voltage...
No you don't need to add powerbus just to add mods, especially if they are plug and play type mods like those from Magic Man. We added the powerbus because we also added to power outlets to my dash and may add more for heated gear this winter. Also, some wire their GPS to the Powerbus vs directly to the battery. It just depends on what all you want to do.
 
dltang said:
No you don't need to add powerbus just to add mods, especially if they are plug and play type mods like those from Magic Man. We added the powerbus because we also added to power outlets to my dash and may add more for heated gear this winter. Also, some wire their GPS to the Powerbus vs directly to the battery. It just depends on what all you want to do.


:agree:

The powerbus gives you a dedicated 30 amp feed and 6 fused terminating points for any accessories you would hardwire into your electrical system, like a GPS, some communication systems (Autocom, Starcom, etc.), heated grips, additional power outlets, XM or Sirius radio, etc. The way the powerbus is connected to your electrical system, it is only energized when your key is turned on. That could be a benefit over wiring everything directly to an unswitched source (like the battery) as you wouldn't have to worry so much about an accessory left on and draining the battery down.
 
bjt said:
The powerbus gives you a dedicated 30 amp feed and 6 fused terminating points for any accessories you would hardwire into your electrical system, like a GPS, some communication systems (Autocom, Starcom, etc.), heated grips, additional power outlets, XM or Sirius radio, etc. The way the powerbus is connected to your electrical system, it is only energized when your key is turned on. That could be a benefit over wiring everything directly to an unswitched source (like the battery) as you wouldn't have to worry so much about an accessory left on and draining the battery down.
From what I have gathered here, the Powerbus relay runs off the 12 volt trunk outlet wiring. If that is the case, I can't run that outlet hot all the time, can I? I hate to lose that ability. Great place to charge a cell phone when camping overnight. I would really like to have one continuously hot outlet. Can I do this in some way, and still have a Powerbus which is switched?
-Scotty
 
NancysToy said:
From what I have gathered here, the Powerbus relay runs off the 12 volt trunk outlet wiring. If that is the case, I can't run that outlet hot all the time, can I? I hate to lose that ability. Great place to charge a cell phone when camping overnight. I would really like to have one continuously hot outlet. Can I do this in some way, and still have a Powerbus which is switched?
-Scotty

In your case, I would hook up the powerbus as directed in the instructions which gives you the switched power terminals. Looking at my fuse block under the trunk, F3 is a 3 amp fuse for switched accessories. That is where the power to the BRP outlet or the powerbus relay comes from. F6 is listed as a 3 amp unswitched accessory fuse. I have no fuse in that slot. I think you would have two options here. One would be to somehow locate the wires coming from the BRP unswitched accessory fuse and connect an outlet to that. The other would be to connect an outlet directly to the battery though an inline fuse.
 
How to wire the buse

You suggested powering the buse by way of the swiitched accessory 3 amp fuse. How does that power the 30 amp buse box. How do you tie into that circuit?
 
You suggested powering the buse by way of the swiitched accessory 3 amp fuse. How does that power the 30 amp buse box. How do you tie into that circuit?
The buss is wired directly to the battery, via a relay. The hot wire runs to the realy, then to the buss. The relay gets pulled in by the switched circuit. Evoluzione's Powerbuss is has instructions, but I did things the hard way. I already had the 12V outlet in the trunk, so that wiring wasn't loose. I located it under the bodywork, and attached the wire to the relay coil there, using a suitcase connector. Might be easier if you don't have the 12 V plug installed.
Scotty
 
I'm in the process of installing a 30A inline fuse to a relay, then to a 6 circuit fuse block that will be hot all the time. The relay will be driven by the 3A accessory circuit on the stock fuse block. From the relay, another 6 circuit fuse block will handle any of that type power I need. Admitted, overkill, but if I need it, I'd rather be looking at than for it. The problem is, where do I put all this stuff?
 
Two 6 circuit fuse blocks, one switched and one unswitched? I would think about mounting them under the Spyders top "tank" panel. Fairly easy to get to and they could mount right to the upper spine of the frame. The Evoluzione Powerbuss that I have mounts under the dash / windshield pod right behind the gauge display but that area might be too cramped for two fuse blocks. I have also heard of a few who have mounted stuff like this in various places in the trunk.
 
I'd be care full about all them gizmo's and gadgets, this unit has a very small 12 volt maint free battery with a 500watt magnito/generator. In the grand scheme of things, not very powerful, enough to support itself.
 
Nahhhh... best I can figure, we have about 200 watts, or about 15 amps, to work with. I run 110w fog lights all of the time and it has not reached critical mass yet.


I'd be care full about all them gizmo's and gadgets, this unit has a very small 12 volt maint free battery with a 500watt magnito/generator. In the grand scheme of things, not very powerful, enough to support itself.
 
I will be adding accessories to my spyder as well when I receive it. I received my Symtec grip heaters and grip puppies from California sport touring. I looked at several fuse panel options and decided on the Centech AP-2 fuse panel. This one is designed for swithed and constant 12 VDC. This I felt would be handy depending if you needed accessories to be switched or if as an example, you need a powerlet outlet to have constant 12V for use to charge a battery for instant. This fuse panel is powered through a 30 amp relay from the battery and has a 60 amp capacity. I have this fuse panel on order along with the wire harness from Cyclenutz.

http://www.cyclenutz.com/products/e...relays/centech_ap-2_auxiliary_fuse_panel.html
 
There is room for Ken's Powerebus to the outside of the front fuse panel. I did have to fab a small bracket to mount it there. Easy access by just popping the trunk open and pulling off the top black plastic piece if you need to change a fuse. I have seen some that have mounted a power bus on the left side in front of the coolant overflow tank. Same easy access but I personally didn't want my electrical bus right in front of a cap that could leak. Ryde Safe and Enjoy:thumbup:
sabunim5:spyder:
 
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