ACE 1330 Oil Change Without Filter Change

[JayBros]

I bought two kits, from Wix, through amazon.com for $37.70. Cost of kit includes analysis. Same kits are supposed to be available from Napa auto stores but the folks around here who run them are idiots who know nothing about how to get them for a customer.

 

[trikermutha]

I know Grainger sells oil analysis kits

 

[Cruzr Joe]

Just me, for the price of the filter I change it with the oil...

:agree::agree::agree:

 

[R.Blackurn]

Just did a oil change on my better halfs rts yesterday.It really isn't that hard to pull the fairing. I know you are all in debate over the filter that was $15 but what about the three orings? I think they should be part of the filter but had to spend another $18 on them. It did only take 5 quarts. As for the debate my harley and her rt will get a complete oil change every 5000 miles.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'M TRYING THESE

Just did a oil change on my better halfs rts yesterday.It really isn't that hard to pull the fairing. I know you are all in debate over the filter that was $15 but what about the three orings? I think they should be part of the filter but had to spend another $18 on them. It did only take 5 quarts. As for the debate my harley and her rt will get a complete oil change every 5000 miles.

I switched to FIBER washers .....2000 miles and so far no leaks.......was told they will outlast rubber by a lot......and I paid $1 ea......Mike :roflblack:

 

[jaherbst]

A new filter with each oil change! Don't leave home without it!

Cut the old filter open some time or have it analyzed. You will never not change the oil without changing the filter again. But then again why change the oil when not recommended by the manufacturer?

I am happy with the 9300 miles recommended by the Factory for both the filter and oil. My VW bug turbo recommends 13,000 between changes, my F-150 Ecoboost with twin turbo's is 7500. As you know turbo's run hotter and are cooled by the engine oil. The new filters and synthetic or blend oils make this possible and reasonable not to mention tested and warrantied.

Don't get run over by the Elephants worrying about the piss ants on this subject or the boring tire threads.

Jack

 

[JayBros]

Did the oil and filter change Sunday afternoon and the oil sample went to the lab yesterday. Process was a bit messier than I expected in the draining but not really a big deal. Only blood pressure raiser was finding one of the O-rings on the engine drain plug that should have been changed by dealer tech at 3,000 and wasn't. That won't happen again because I'll be doing them myself, at least to the 28,000 mile change when the trans filter needs changing. Semi-disconcerting point was filling with 5 quarts of oil and on dipstick check seeing the level at Min line. I know 5 is the correct number but the old brain wanted to add some more -- resisted that urge. Worst part of the whole deal, crawling around the garage floor at 74 -- old bones!

 

[Bob Denman]

I'll bet those "old bones" are feeling a lot of satisfaction in knowing that the job was done correctly... :2thumbs:
Please let us know what the oil analysis tells you.

 

[Orange Spyder Man]

Just did a oil change on my better halfs rts yesterday.It really isn't that hard to pull the fairing. I know you are all in debate over the filter that was $15 but what about the three orings? I think they should be part of the filter but had to spend another $18 on them. It did only take 5 quarts. As for the debate my harley and her rt will get a complete oil change every 5000 miles.

Check the price of an HiFlo #556 oil filter for 1330 engine... on Ebay they sell for $5.52 + $2.32 shipping = $7.84 each .. Amazon also sells them.. and I bet if you check with your automotive supply they prolly carry a replacement also, so you don't have to buy a high priced filter from BRP..

osm

 

[Bob Denman]

Question: Just because it fits; do we know if it does as good (Or maybe better!), of a job at filtering the oil? :dontknow:

 

[JayBros]

Purchased my 556 filter and O-ring/crush gasket sets from Bajaron. His price for the complete set is very reasonable and I choose to support our sponsors whenever possible.

 

[BajaRon]

Purchased my 556 filter and O-ring/crush gasket sets from Bajaron. His price for the complete set is very reasonable and I choose to support our sponsors whenever possible.

And I appreciate it.

My 1330 filter kit includes the 5 O-Rings and 2 metal washers delivered for $12.95.

I also have the 28k transmission filter for those who plan to do that service themselves.

 

[Many brands]

RE- fILTER CHANGE

Would you take a shower, and then put dirty shorts back on ?? Same thing.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OIL CHANGE

As I mentioned in the initial post, this is not at all an issue of the expense of the oil filter; the real question is with filter manufacturing technology is it really necessary to change the filter when doing a mid course oil change because some of us are concerned with viscosity breakdown well short of the 9,300 mile change interval. My operator's guide does say to change the filter each time the oil is changed and if a reader takes that direction along with the 9,300 interval I would definitely agree. I've not seen an automotive oil filter manufacturer, not long haul truck service, advertising filter life in excess of 15,000 miles. If someone wants to debate whether an oil filter's cleanliness impacts the viscosity breakdown of the oil itself I have neither the education nor the experience to participate in such a thread. The primary reason behind my original question was to ensure that if I were to not change the filter what would be a reasonable initial refill amount to ensure that I was not overfilling the engine because of the amount of oil remaining in the filter and canister after the crankcase and transmission were drained. We've seen elsewhere on SL the alleged reduction of engine power if the engine is overfilled.

My main objective, in addition to satisfying my own uncertainty about viscosity breakdown, is to hopefully provide analysis reports of at least the first two types of oil I've fed the engine and, if I stay with Mobil 1 will compare two successive oil changes to see how consistently it performs.

Considering the bucks we have invested in our machines, debate about the best way to protect those investments is good IMO.

Since you so nicely QUOTED me ( in print even ) :roflblack: ..... where did I say ANYTHING about ...COST, MONEY , EXPENSE etc.??????? ......... Right I didn't .......... For me it's not about money .... As others have mentioned it's the work involved in changing the filter ( which I buy @ $6.75 per filter ) ..... and as far as what the oil filter is there for ....it's not to clean your OIL ....it's to prevent large particles of metal from circulating around the system ...BRP say change the 1330 filter at 9300 miles --- I follow those directions ....plus I change my OIL more than twice as often as required ........... If you folks really think the OIL filter is so important ....change it After EVERY ride .......jmho ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

oil filter

Would you take a shower, and then put dirty shorts back on ?? Same thing.

:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:....It's not even close to " the same thing " ......Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OIL FILTER BRAND

Question: Just because it fits; do we know if it does as good (Or maybe better!), of a job at filtering the oil? :dontknow:

Robert ....that's what Ron sells .....are you saying He's selling us with el cheapo filters that don't equal BRP's ????? Mike :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

Robert ....that's what Ron sells .....are you saying He's selling us with el cheapo filters that don't equal BRP's ????? Mike :thumbup:

A fair question Mike. I'm hoping 'Rhetorical' fits here? (Just to be clear. Tongue in Cheek! I'm good!)

The following is not in defense of my products. Just information. Everyone needs to feel comfortable about how they approach this subject. Information can be helpful.

I have had oil tested using the OEM BRP filters, HiFlo filters, and K&N filters. The dirt or filterable contaminants were virtually the same (very low) in all tests. The difference was not significant enough to draw any conclusions other than they all work very well.

BRP uses a synthetic filter medium. So does K&N. HiFlo uses a tried and true, high quality organic medium. If you're going to run your Spyder for 3 years or more without changing filters, I would not recommend using the HiFlo as it is POSSIBLE, (and I stress possible) that an organic medium could fail if you do ridiculous things with it.

The only filters I am aware of which failed catastrophically (or failed at all) were the original BRP filters (2008-late production 2012). BRP re-engineered them in late 2012 and they have been a good quality filter to this day.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

HiFlo uses a tried and true, high quality organic medium.

In other words, paper????????? Paper comes from trees, and they are organic!!! :thumbup: But I still use them anyway!!

 

[Leland]

Other considerations:

A few other considerations regarding whether or not to change the oil filter:

The filter will be contaminated with old oil. The oil can be drained off if you unscrew the filter cap and lift it slightly, leave it in this position for several hours and the filter will drain off any oil that would otherwise drip all over the place during removal. If you lift-out just the cap/o-ring holder first and leave the filter within the housing, you can remove the filter without much effort on the F3. I don't remove any Tupperware to change the oil filter and I don't spill a drop of oil on the Spyder.

You now can remove the filter for inspection. It is alway a good idea to see if you have large pieces of metal within the filter to ascertain a possible catastrophic failure. Large chucks do not show up in oil analysis test, only fine particles.

The oil you drain from within the housing is only a few ounces at best, but it has a higher acid content that will be added backing into your fresh oil. Maybe it is not a good idea to add back this old oil? The transmission has some oil that does not drain out during oil changes, so you are adding to this total of contamination to your fresh oil.

You can only check the oil level on the ACE 1330 engine after it has reach operational temperature, which means the oil must come up to the temperature of the engine coolant temperature. The manual states 9 miles of riding minimum and a 10 minute idle time to stabilize the fluid temperatures and allow the various sump pumps to transfer the oil to the correct level. You have 2 minutes to check the oil level after shutdown before the oil drains away to various cavities within the engine. This draining back is the source of the problem on the ACE 1330 engine. The drain-back is not what we are accustion to, and is the source of the overfilling of the engine. Adding back 5 quarts is the correct amount. Do not be tricked into adding more oil!