Accessory Circuit - GPS and Hot Hands - off when key is off?

[groundeffect]

GPS MOUNTING / WIRING ON SPYDER:


Hi there, everyone.

I've been researching ways to install a Garmin Zumo 450 to the Spyder. I've read some posts about an "accessory circuit" on the Spyder.

I have a couple of questions about this:

1) Does this circuit power accessories plugged into it when the key is turned OFF?


2) How does one connect into this accessory circuit - is it BRP priority circuit connectors, or something?


3) Can you connect two accessory items, such as a Zumo GPS AND a pair of Hot Hands grip heaters?



PS If anyone has any pictures/snap-shots/photos or circuit diagrams of the accessory circuit and area, that would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thank you in advance for any replies on this.

Cheers

 

[bone crusher]

GPS MOUNTING / WIRING ON SPYDER:


Hi there, everyone.

I've been researching ways to install a Garmin Zumo 450 to the Spyder. I've read some posts about an "accessory circuit" on the Spyder.

I have a couple of questions about this:

1) Does this circuit power accessories plugged into it when the key is turned OFF?


2) How does one connect into this accessory circuit - is it BRP priority circuit connectors, or something?


3) Can you connect two accessory items, such as a Zumo GPS AND a pair of Hot Hands grip heaters?



PS If anyone has any pictures/snap-shots/photos or circuit diagrams of the accessory circuit and area, that would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thank you in advance for any replies on this.

Cheers

We just covered this topic with the zumo 550 thread...search for it a bit...I always thought mine was wired directly but it is either going through the accessory that is unswitched or it is using the 2 amp fuse it may or may not have come with...

Please check out that thread..it's pretty recent...it will tell you all you need to know...

 

[NancysToy]

The Spyder RS has two available accessory circuits, one switched by the ignition, and one that is unswitched, and on continuously. These are not used on the stock Spyder, as delivered, so the 3 amp fuses in the fusebox under the trunklid are not installed. As delivered, the switched accessory harness is tucked up near the left upper suspension support. It can be reached from behind the wheel, with the body panels off, or more openly reached with the entire trunk removed (ugh). The unswitched harness is tied in a bundle in the center, front. As I recall, both have standard "L" shaped connectors, the kind that plug onto the back of a 12 volt cigarette outlet. In fact, that's the normal use for the switched harness...the optional 12V outlet in the trunk. You might wish to substitute a different connector. I prefer the waterproof ones.

Either circuit would power a GPS. It depends on whether you want it on all the time, or only with the switch. Neither will supply enough current to feed HotHands, heated gear, or the like. To best do that, I suggest installing an auxiliary fusebox, which can be triggered by a relay fed from the 3 amp switched accessory circuit, or a similar alternative. Evoluzione, PC-8, and Centech make such boxes. I made my own from auto store components. The alternative for a large draw like heated accessories is to run a fused harness directly to the battery. Most such accessories come with such a harness, but may not include the desired switches or thermostats. You should not connect both heated accessories and the GPS to the same circuit, IMO, they should be separately fed and appropriately fused. You could use the battery harness as a feed to the fused GPS harness, but the noise from the heated accessory thermostat could affect the GPS.

 

[redcarbon]

horn circuit

I PIG TAILED THE HORN CIRCUIT(10 AMPS)TO RUN MY OIL COOLING FAN.

 

[WackyDan]

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

That is what I'm almost done installing. Allows you to have several switched circuits, and two always hot circuits. This will allow you to pretty much power anything and everything you may add to the spyder without tapping into a spyder circuit you shouldn't be messing with or adding draw to.

 

[groundeffect]

The Spyder RS has two available accessory circuits, one switched by the ignition, and one that is unswitched, and on continuously. These are not used on the stock Spyder, as delivered, so the 3 amp fuses in the fusebox under the trunklid are not installed. As delivered, the switched accessory harness is tucked up near the left upper suspension support. It can be reached from behind the wheel, with the body panels off, or more openly reached with the entire trunk removed (ugh). The unswitched harness is tied in a bundle in the center, front. As I recall, both have standard "L" shaped connectors, the kind that plug onto the back of a 12 volt cigarette outlet. In fact, that's the normal use for the switched harness...the optional 12V outlet in the trunk. You might wish to substitute a different connector. I prefer the waterproof ones.

Either circuit would power a GPS. It depends on whether you want it on all the time, or only with the switch. Neither will supply enough current to feed HotHands, heated gear, or the like. To best do that, I suggest installing an auxiliary fusebox, which can be triggered by a relay fed from the 3 amp switched accessory circuit, or a similar alternative. Evoluzione, PC-8, and Centech make such boxes. I made my own from auto store components. The alternative for a large draw like heated accessories is to run a fused harness directly to the battery. Most such accessories come with such a harness, but may not include the desired switches or thermostats. You should not connect both heated accessories and the GPS to the same circuit, IMO, they should be separately fed and appropriately fused. You could use the battery harness as a feed to the fused GPS harness, but the noise from the heated accessory thermostat could affect the GPS.

Scotty, that was an awesome explanation, thank you for sharing!


I think for the time being I will directly wire the hot hands to the battery - from what I can understand, there is not a lot of room under the seat - I'm guess a couple wires and squeeze in there, though, you think?
Both the hot hands and the GPS have fuses built into their wiring.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

That is what I'm almost done installing. Allows you to have several switched circuits, and two always hot circuits. This will allow you to pretty much power anything and everything you may add to the spyder without tapping into a spyder circuit you shouldn't be messing with or adding draw to.

Thanks, Dan. This seems like a great option. However, for me, for the time being I want to keep it simple. I would be interested in any pictures or notes you have once you've finished installing yours, though. Good luck.

cheers and thank you, everyone.

 

[WackyDan]

You can fit some wires under the seat, but under the black plastic "lid" that sits over the top of the fuel tank. Believe me, I've crawled all over underneath there in order to find room for my harness to lay without worry about being pinched or in the way of the seat.

The PC-8 is actually a cake install... the only pain in the rear is routing your harness for it. I need to go back and modify the harness I made as it will not fit quite right where I wanted it to without rubbing against a steel mount. Just way tight in there.

If i'm back on my feet this coming weekend, I'll be able to finish up much of the install and take pics. Between the cold garage, and my back, I'm pretty much useless lately.

 

[NancysToy]

I think for the time being I will directly wire the hot hands to the battery - from what I can understand, there is not a lot of room under the seat - I'm guess a couple wires and squeeze in there, though, you think?
Both the hot hands and the GPS have fuses built into their wiring.

I agree with WackyDan that the space can get tight there, above the underseat panel or below the "tank" panel. Better to run it forward under the body panels. You have to take several of them off to get to the real battery terminals anyway. Buy some split wire loom tubing from the store, tie wrap it to the frame or cables in appropriate pots, and run your harness through that. Far more protected, and easier to modify in the futire.

 

[the nicko]

:agree: nice mode:thumbup:

 

[groundeffect]

I decided, for now to install the heated grips (low power draw) and my GPS power wire directly to the battery. The installation can be found here:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17170

Cheers and thank you for your comments, everyone.
Dean

 

[moroccomole2004]

Groundeffect,

I know I am sounding like a broken record but I strongly recommend getting the evoluzione power bus system as it will make all you electrical system upgrades easier.

http://evoluzione.net/canam_powerbus.htm

Trust me I did it and you can hook up 6 items with ease to the bus, each with its own fuse. Now the bus only comes on when you turn the ignition as per the included instructions.

I like it and it was a breeze to install as well as to add items later to the bus. I have the following attached: my Zumo 550, power plug to the trunk, my Zoombak locator, 1 x powerlet on the dash, and have two open slots for additional items.

Mole :spyder2:

 

[groundeffect]

Thanks for you notes on this, I do appreciate it ( as well as the many times Scotty has suggested a power bus or similar ), Thank you!


Since I only have two accessories for the time being, and I need both items installed now for riding in cold temperatures here, I decided to link in directly to the battery this time around.

However, I've made a note to myself ( and I've copied the links you've posted ) to consider and upgrade to once I require more electrical accessories on my Spyder.

Also note that each of the GPS and HotHands have in-line fuses.

thank you again.
Cheers,
Dean

Groundeffect,

I know I am sounding like a broken record but I strongly recommend getting the evoluzione power bus system as it will make all you electrical system upgrades easier.

http://evoluzione.net/canam_powerbus.htm

Trust me I did it and you can hook up 6 items with ease to the bus, each with its own fuse. Now the bus only comes on when you turn the ignition as per the included instructions.

I like it and it was a breeze to install as well as to add items later to the bus. I have the following attached: my Zumo 550, power plug to the trunk, my Zoombak locator, 1 x powerlet on the dash, and have two open slots for additional items.

Mole :spyder2:

 

[NancysToy]

Don't forget to turn the heated grips off!!! If these are not switched with the ignition, they can quickly run the battery down...even with a Battery Tender Jr. hooked up. In the long run you are going to want to run them through a relay switched by the accessory circuit, or some other suitable switched circuit. It doesn't matter what the power source for the grips is, but it is too easy to forget them, and a relay removes all doubt.

 

[groundeffect]

Don't forget to turn the heated grips off!!! If these are not switched with the ignition, they can quickly run the battery down...even with a Battery Tender Jr. hooked up. In the long run you are going to want to run them through a relay switched by the accessory circuit, or some other suitable switched circuit. It doesn't matter what the power source for the grips is, but it is too easy to forget them, and a relay removes all doubt.

Thanks for the reminder, Scotty!
Dean

 

[carbolic]

Don't forget to turn the heated grips off!!! If these are not switched with the ignition, they can quickly run the battery down...even with a Battery Tender Jr. hooked up. In the long run you are going to want to run them through a relay switched by the accessory circuit, or some other suitable switched circuit. It doesn't matter what the power source for the grips is, but it is too easy to forget them, and a relay removes all doubt.

Scotty-That switched accessory has a 5 amp fuse in the block- I have my 200w stereo attached to it via a 20 amp relay- However, if I max the volume, it takes out the 5 amp fuse. Any suggestions?

 

[WackyDan]

Scotty-That switched accessory has a 5 amp fuse in the block- I have my 200w stereo attached to it via a 20 amp relay- However, if I max the volume, it takes out the 5 amp fuse. Any suggestions?

Whoa... Are you saying that the stereo is blowing the switched accessory fuse that is in the Spyder's fuse panel even though you have it running through a relay?

1. Spyder fuse should be 3 amp, not 5 amp. Upsizing fuses in the stock panel is asking for issues.

2. If you are blowing the fuse in the factory accessory outlet, something is wrong in your hookup. First thought is that you are back feeding or bleeding power back to that circuit somehow.

3. Is your relay healthy? It isn't out of the question to have a flaky relay coil and have it draw too much or short itself on a whim.

Either way, first thing I would do is swap out the relay for a new one just to eliminate that as an issue.

Next, Eliminate the trigger from the accessory outlet temporarily and use a direct feed from the battery to trigger the relay. Make sure you have a fuse in that trigger line as well. This is for testing only... and will help point you further down the road to finding the root cause.

If it still happens, you may want to put a diode either across the coil on the relay or inline with your trigger and see if that resolves the issue.

 

[NancysToy]

Whoa... Are you saying that the stereo is blowing the switched accessory fuse that is in the Spyder's fuse panel even though you have it running through a relay?

1. Spyder fuse should be 3 amp, not 5 amp. Upsizing fuses in the stock panel is asking for issues.

2. If you are blowing the fuse in the factory accessory outlet, something is wrong in your hookup. First thought is that you are back feeding or bleeding power back to that circuit somehow.

3. Is your relay healthy? It isn't out of the question to have a flaky relay coil and have it draw too much or short itself on a whim.

Either way, first thing I would do is swap out the relay for a new one just to eliminate that as an issue.

Next, Eliminate the trigger from the accessory outlet temporarily and use a direct feed from the battery to trigger the relay. Make sure you have a fuse in that trigger line as well. This is for testing only... and will help point you further down the road to finding the root cause.

If it still happens, you may want to put a diode either across the coil on the relay or inline with your trigger and see if that resolves the issue.

+1 I couldn't have said it better.

 

[Recluze]

Thank you

The Spyder RS has two available accessory circuits, one switched by the ignition, and one that is unswitched, and on continuously. These are not used on the stock Spyder, as delivered, so the 3 amp fuses in the fusebox under the trunklid are not installed. As delivered, the switched accessory harness is tucked up near the left upper suspension support. It can be reached from behind the wheel, with the body panels off, or more openly reached with the entire trunk removed (ugh). The unswitched harness is tied in a bundle in the center, front. As I recall, both have standard "L" shaped connectors, the kind that plug onto the back of a 12 volt cigarette outlet. In fact, that's the normal use for the switched harness...the optional 12V outlet in the trunk. You might wish to substitute a different connector. I prefer the waterproof ones.

Either circuit would power a GPS. It depends on whether you want it on all the time, or only with the switch. Neither will supply enough current to feed HotHands, heated gear, or the like. To best do that, I suggest installing an auxiliary fusebox, which can be triggered by a relay fed from the 3 amp switched accessory circuit, or a similar alternative. Evoluzione, PC-8, and Centech make such boxes. I made my own from auto store components. The alternative for a large draw like heated accessories is to run a fused harness directly to the battery. Most such accessories come with such a harness, but may not include the desired switches or thermostats. You should not connect both heated accessories and the GPS to the same circuit, IMO, they should be separately fed and appropriately fused. You could use the battery harness as a feed to the fused GPS harness, but the noise from the heated accessory thermostat could affect the GPS.

I used your advice and installed a PC-8 on my new to me 2008 RS. I mounted it under the fuse box/radiator reservoir cover on the right hand side opposite side to the factory installed fuse block. I fished out the spare factory installed switched 3 amp lead and used it to power the relay on and off to control the fuse block. The relay is mounted under the seat. So far all I have running on this is the GPS which I could have very well run off of the factory installed extra 3 amp fuse but there will be other things to add.

The point: Thank you. I have been hesitant to break into the wiring on the Spyder because of all of the grief it can cause when done wrong. My previous 2008 had nothing electrical added to it and it ran flawlessly for 45,000 miles while so many others were throwing codes and limping. With your complete explanation I gained the confidence to do this. While I have not gotten 45,000 miles of trouble free service from this one I am confident that, with your help, this part will not be an issue in the future. Thanks. I among others appreciate your thoughtful complete responses to questions on this forum.