A new owner's experiences.

[BobnDee]

We've had our 2014 RT-s SE6 for about a month. Being new to Spyder's we are taking our time learning to drive it. So far we've figured out that 17 psi in the front is too low (what it was delivered with) and have put in 20 psi (as recommended by the owner's manual). The rear shock was set at medium, but with only one-up, the first or second lowest position appears to work better for us. Straight line riding is now very comfortable, but having rode 2-wheels in the past, the curves still are a bit daunting. This is particularly true of the off camber local streets we are using for practice. Both my wife and I rode a larger country road today and find it much easier to control in the curves. Guess we're learning :thumbup:

But we have some noises we want to at the Forum about.
First - When you shift from Neutral to 1st. or Reverse, it makes a loud "CLUNK"! Is this normal for the SE6 transmission?

Second - There's a sound like when you put a playing card in the spokes of a bicycle - "clip. clip, clip....." coming from the left front wheel area. I've not been able to locate any loose label, wire or plastic that could rub against the wheel. The sound goes faster as the tryke goes faster but almost gets lost in the air noise at highway speed. Any ideas.


Bob & Dee

 

[warp10]

maybe a stone in the front tire for the click click noise :dontknow:

 

[3 Wheel Addict]

The "clunk" is the norm on the SE style tranny. As far as the rubbing goes try to jack one wheel up at a time and turn by hand and see if it does it then, if so then the dealer should be able to fix it if you can't seem to narrow it down. Could just be brake rubbing?

 

[NancysToy]

The clunk is normal. The Spyder's is less than my BMWs make.

The sound could be a stone in a tire, the wheel weight hitting a cotter key that is not bent enough, or just the ventilation holes in the disk passing the brake pads. I'd have to hear it to pin it down further. If you are worried, have your dealer take a look.

The best advice I can offer for corners is to lean your upper body into the turn. I tell people to pretend that they are trying to kiss the knuckles on their inside hand. Try it, it may help ou get comfortable faster. I might also recommend a BajaRon swaybar. That will limit the body roll.

 

[Bob Denman]

Have your ridden ATVs or snowmobiles at all? Those riding skills cross over very well... :thumbup:
The reverse "Clunk"... normal...
The left front wheel noise; Scotty has you on the right track with his analysis. Check the tread for stones first, then start going over the wheel asembly. any differences between the two wheels can be considered a suspect...
If nothing pops up; the brakes dragging a bit over the cross-drilled disk is then the likeliest suspect, and it may fade as the pads wear themselves into a comfortable place in the system. :thumbup:

 

[flaggerphil]

The clunk is normal...not only in the Spyder but on almost every bike I've ever owned.

Don't have a clue about the clicking...

 

[Rob Rodriguez]

As others have said. The clunk is normal. It's like dropping a 2 wheeler into 1st gear...it goes clunk.

The noise you're hearing. I have a 2012 RS and it does the same exact thing for a moment every time I ride it. It's a click, click click noise and it sounds like its coming from the front left tire but I'm not sure that's where it's really coming from. It makes this noise when I first drive off for the length of my driveway (I have a long driveway) and then it stops. It only does this if the bike has sat for a while. Once it's warmed up and you turn on and off or start and stop it doesn't do it anymore. I've found nothing wrong I can pinpoint and neither has my dealer so I chalk it up to normal operation. In 4000 miles it hasn't seemed to hurt anything.

Cornering. It's just like riding a snowmobile. That's probably not much help but this might be. When you're cornering apply pressure to the foot peg(s) or floor boards (whatever you have). If you're turning left and leaning left (into the corner) push continuously on the left foot peg with your foot. The pressure will sway the machine in that direction. The more pressure the more it will sway that direction. Sounds odd but it works (works on a snowmobile too). In fact if you are riding straight down the road and you push and hold with one foot or the other on a foot peg the spyder will sway in that direction without moving the bars at all.

 

[ARtraveler]

:welcome: and :congrats: on the new ryde.

 

[bluestratos]

I can take corners very fast with outleaning but it feels a bit odd as if I would slide off the seat tip, not that it does. If I lean into the sensation goes away but my speed is about the same so it is more perception than anything. The wide stance and the nanny makes cornering very safe even if you push the limits. I can lift the outs side wheel at times but not for long before Nanny takes over.

 

[BobnDee]

Thanks for the response

As others have said. The clunk is normal. It's like dropping a 2 wheeler into 1st gear...it goes clunk.

The noise you're hearing. I have a 2012 RS and it does the same exact thing for a moment every time I ride it. It's a click, click click noise and it sounds like its coming from the front left tire but I'm not sure that's where it's really coming from. It makes this noise when I first drive off for the length of my driveway (I have a long driveway) and then it stops. It only does this if the bike has sat for a while. Once it's warmed up and you turn on and off or start and stop it doesn't do it anymore. I've found nothing wrong I can pinpoint and neither has my dealer so I chalk it up to normal operation. In 4000 miles it hasn't seemed to hurt anything.

Cornering. It's just like riding a snowmobile. That's probably not much help but this might be. When you're cornering apply pressure to the foot peg(s) or floor boards (whatever you have). If you're turning left and leaning left (into the corner) push continuously on the left foot peg with your foot. The pressure will sway the machine in that direction. The more pressure the more it will sway that direction. Sounds odd but it works (works on a snowmobile too). In fact if you are riding straight down the road and you push and hold with one foot or the other on a foot peg the spyder will sway in that direction without moving the bars at all.

Thanks everyone! All the input has been very helpful. Good to know that the shifting sound is normal, as going up or down gears is like shifting through butter on the SE6. Still have the "click, click" sound, but it seems to be less than before. If it doesn't stop we'll take back to the dealer (60 miles) but it doesn't appear to affect performance.
PS: Our cornering continues to improve, just need to develop that same sense of comfort and security we had on two wheels (which probably should have less than on a Spyder)

Bob & Dee

 

[Bob Denman]

It will take a bit of time... but it'll sure be worth it! :2thumbs:

 

[BobnDee]

Problem solved!!

Thanks everyone! All the input has been very helpful. Good to know that the shifting sound is normal, as going up or down gears is like shifting through butter on the SE6. Still have the "click, click" sound, but it seems to be less than before. If it doesn't stop we'll take back to the dealer (60 miles) but it doesn't appear to affect performance.
PS: Our cornering continues to improve, just need to develop that same sense of comfort and security we had on two wheels (which probably should have less than on a Spyder)

Bob & Dee

First, I feel stupid. When the "click, click" sound started, I attempted to check the lug nuts, but the socket I used appeared to rotate around the nut - apparently too big. So today, I started to go back over everything and when I placed the sprocket on the wheel nut it was almost snug. I say almost because I felt some resistance but could turn it by hand. :banghead: Got the wrench and progressed to tighten all 3 nuts, including the one I thought I had used the over sized socket on. The socket fit and it took 1 and 1/2 turns to seat the nut. The other two took a good quarter turn to snug up. I checked the other wheel but all was well there.

Really enjoyed the ride - No sound, just the purring of that sweet 3 cylinder engine. I will be checking the front end more frequently, but glad to have found the solution.

Thanks again for all your help!

Bob & Dee

 

[Ronbo]

FRONT WHEEL PRESSURES

We've had our 2014 RT-s SE6 for about a month. Being new to Spyder's we are taking our time learning to drive it. So far we've figured out that 17 psi in the front is too low (what it was delivered with) and have put in 20 psi (as recommended by the owner's manual). The rear shock was set at medium, but with only one-up, the first or second lowest position appears to work better for us. Straight line riding is now very comfortable, but having rode 2-wheels in the past, the curves still are a bit daunting. This is particularly true of the off camber local streets we are using for practice. Both my wife and I rode a larger country road today and find it much easier to control in the curves. Guess we're learning :thumbup:

But we have some noises we want to at the Forum about.
First - When you shift from Neutral to 1st. or Reverse, it makes a loud "CLUNK"! Is this normal for the SE6 transmission?

Second - There's a sound like when you put a playing card in the spokes of a bicycle - "clip. clip, clip....." coming from the left front wheel area. I've not been able to locate any loose label, wire or plastic that could rub against the wheel. The sound goes faster as the tryke goes faster but almost gets lost in the air noise at highway speed. Any ideas.


Bob & Dee

17 psi works best in fronts for me. I figure that is actually 20 when tires heat up..
IMHO

Ron

 

[Route1motorsports]

That click, click,click noise....

Recently had a 2014 RT limited that had a small issue with the belt guard gently hitting the pulley making a click, click,click noise...I would give that a look.

-chuck

 

[Highwayman2013]

First, I feel stupid. When the "click, click" sound started, I attempted to check the lug nuts, but the socket I used appeared to rotate around the nut - apparently too big. So today, I started to go back over everything and when I placed the sprocket on the wheel nut it was almost snug. I say almost because I felt some resistance but could turn it by hand. :banghead: Got the wrench and progressed to tighten all 3 nuts, including the one I thought I had used the over sized socket on. The socket fit and it took 1 and 1/2 turns to seat the nut. The other two took a good quarter turn to snug up. I checked the other wheel but all was well there.

Really enjoyed the ride - No sound, just the purring of that sweet 3 cylinder engine. I will be checking the front end more frequently, but glad to have found the solution.

Thanks again for all your help!

Bob & Dee

The torque on my 2012 lug nuts is 77ftlb with a 13/16th regular socket (impact too thick).

 

[Ronbo]

Cornering

I can take corners very fast with outleaning but it feels a bit odd as if I would slide off the seat tip, not that it does. If I lean into the sensation goes away but my speed is about the same so it is more perception than anything. The wide stance and the nanny makes cornering very safe even if you push the limits. I can lift the outs side wheel at times but not for long before Nanny takes over.

I don't know how much "leaning in" to the turn affects the Spyder's ability to corner, but it sure keeps your center of gravity in the right place, and keeps you from feeling like you are being thrown off. The harder I corner, the more I lean. Feels right to me.

Ron

 

[Big Arm]

Highwayman2013 has the right answer for you. Front lug nuts need to be torqued to 77 ft lbs, and while your at it, loosen the other wheels lug nuts ,and torque them again, just so you know that they are right.

 

[sassoman]

We bought a 2014 RT and after about 700 miles of riding and not feeling comfortable in off camber turns and sometimes pulling out to pass and feeling the unit swerving not out off control ,but not comfortable. I installed a Baja ron's sway bar yesterday.It was like night and day! We rode about 80 miles last night and I was able to flick the Spyder from one lane to the other and it just did what I thought it should have done from the factory. Can-Am should just put Baja Rons bar on from the factory and new owners would not have tear their Spyders apart and spend the time to make it ride so much better with such a simple change.

 

[Cruzr Joe]

We bought a 2014 RT and after about 700 miles of riding and not feeling comfortable in off camber turns and sometimes pulling out to pass and feeling the unit swerving not out off control ,but not comfortable. I installed a Baja ron's sway bar yesterday.It was like night and day! We rode about 80 miles last night and I was able to flick the Spyder from one lane to the other and it just did what I thought it should have done from the factory. Can-Am should just put Baja Rons bar on from the factory and new owners would not have tear their Spyders apart and spend the time to make it ride so much better with such a simple change.

That's a good idea but then we would have to find some other reason to tear it apart and replace something, we are creatures of habit and can always find some way to make it better.

Cruzr Joe

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: Leave us at least some room for fun! :thumbup: