5000 Miles on New Shocks and Tires Report - Very Happy Camper

[buck1234]

Hi All;

A little over 5000 miles ago I installed 2011 RT front shocks on my RS. I set the shocks to the number 4 setting and away I rode. I also bought 2ea 185/70-14 Michelin Hydroedge tires and a 215/60-15 Hydroedge for the rear. I removed the 2 front fenders to modify them for the taller wider 185/70 tires. Always aware of good deals, the Michelin tires carry a 90,000 mile tread wear. They handle extremely well and I am pleased with the set up. With my Goldwing after 5000 miles of use the tires would be 1/3rd worn. With the Michelin Hydroedge their isn't any wear.

Oh and to those wondering, my nanny has not kicked in at any time after the tire change. Trust me I have a lot of very twisty roads that I still pound pretty hard and no problems for me.

I am a conservative rider so the harder compounding of the tires compared to motorcycles softer compounding is not noticeable by me when riding. I did get 37.5 MPG on a couple of tanks,but average 34 MPG with a more zippy riding style.

Well just thought I'd share what I learned. Safe and fun riding to all.

Buck1234 :2thumbs::yes:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

NEW SET-UP

I like the way you think. I have different tires and shocks so I am interested to know if you can see any more wear on the inside edge of your tires as opposed to the rest of the tire...I realize that you only have 5000 miles.....Also before the change did you notice more inside tire wear ?......Mike..:thumbup:

 

[Machinegunner]

What air pressure are you using in the rear? I just installed a Kumho 205/55-15 and am running 40psi. An earlier poster said the higher pressure would keep the sidewalls harder and that would keep the tread flat and not wear out in the center. I started running 35psi in the original Kendal and it seems to have stopped center wear. The Kumho is asymetrical and has a 40,000 mile tread warranty. It has AA traction rating and A temp rating. Listed as ultra high performance all season so it should work for snow in the mountains.

 

[flamingobabe]

I got a set of RT shocks from Cowtown...they have about 300 miles set on #3...we'll see what happens on the trip to and from Durango...I'll have to go look at what tires I have.....

 

[coz]

hey buck

haven't heard from you in a long time, hope everything is okopcorn:

 

[Recluze]

Hi All;

A little over 5000 miles ago I installed 2011 RT front shocks on my RS. I set the shocks to the number 4 setting and away I rode. I also bought 2ea 185/70-14 Michelin Hydroedge tires and a 215/60-15 Hydroedge for the rear. I removed the 2 front fenders to modify them for the taller wider 185/70 tires. Always aware of good deals, the Michelin tires carry a 90,000 mile tread wear. They handle extremely well and I am pleased with the set up. With my Goldwing after 5000 miles of use the tires would be 1/3rd worn. With the Michelin Hydroedge their isn't any wear.

Oh and to those wondering, my nanny has not kicked in at any time after the tire change. Trust me I have a lot of very twisty roads that I still pound pretty hard and no problems for me.

I am a conservative rider so the harder compounding of the tires compared to motorcycles softer compounding is not noticeable by me when riding. I did get 37.5 MPG on a couple of tanks,but average 34 MPG with a more zippy riding style.

Well just thought I'd share what I learned. Safe and fun riding to all.

Buck1234 :2thumbs::yes:

So tell me about how the Rt shocks change the ride. After 50,000 on an RS with stock shocks I went from setting 3 to 4 and was amazed by the difference in sweeping turns. Who would have thought that. Okay I guess I am not the great test pilot.

 

[buck1234]

I like the way you think. I have different tires and shocks so I am interested to know if you can see any more wear on the inside edge of your tires as opposed to the rest of the tire...I realize that you only have 5000 miles.....Also before the change did you notice more inside tire wear ?......Mike..:thumbup:

So far the wear is even all the way across. I doubt that outside of a bad alignment that I will get any uneven ware. Car tires have different compounding and wall stiffness so I doubt there will be uneven wear at any time aside from overinflation. I currently run 17-18 PSI on the front tires and use a Tread Depth Gauge to monitor any changes since eyeball observation isn't accurate enough. I hope this helps.

Buck1234 :2thumbs::yes:

 

[buck1234]

What air pressure are you using in the rear? I just installed a Kumho 205/55-15 and am running 40psi. An earlier poster said the higher pressure would keep the sidewalls harder and that would keep the tread flat and not wear out in the center. I started running 35psi in the original Kendal and it seems to have stopped center wear. The Kumho is asymetrical and has a 40,000 mile tread warranty. It has AA traction rating and A temp rating. Listed as ultra high performance all season so it should work for snow in the mountains.

Hello;

Threads on tire wear are many. Just check them out and I believe you will glean your answer. I write this a a fellow rider and tire consumer. Good Luck


Buck1234

 

[buck1234]

haven't heard from you in a long time, hope everything is okopcorn:

Alive and Well, Thank You. All of last summer I was fabricating a tow behind utility trailer. It's 50 inches wide and 48 inches long in the box with a 36 inch hinged beaver tail that gives me 7 feet to stretch out the tent with removable slat rails. It has storage compartments big enough for a small elephant and storage for 15 gallons of gas. It's front tongue deck will carry a 2400 watt Yamaha generator and I'll be looking into a small refer and micro wave for comfort and hot food and cold drinks. I had some paint mixed up and it is a matched yellow to my bike. I has huge truck tail lights at a level of 40 inches from the ground to be seen easily by following drivers. I put 50 high output LED strobes all around the trailer and the brake light is slaved to a flashing sequencer. I installed an air horn that runs in with the stock horn. All of my electrical upgrades are run through 12 volt relays direct to the battery putting no strain on the electronics.

But the real deal is that I have a 4 season tent, inflatable mattress that fit right inside the deck of the trailer. So travel in comfort and style won't be hard. I'll stop every so often and spend a night in a hotel to shower and catch up on world news and cartoons. The only thing missing is a Sat phone, but maybe some day.

I figured with 21 gallons of fuel that at a conservative 25 MPG I can travel 500 miles between fuel stops, not bad for an old fart.

When I set the tongue height for the trailer I also checked my Toyota truck so I can use both hitches to pull the trailer. The ball on the bike is 2" higher than the rear axel, so all is well. The axel's are 1/2 torsion bar units and will carry 1000 Lbs. Looked into slaved brakes on the trailer axel but couldn't locate any that would allow me to keep my low center of gravity. Bought a HD 11/16" dual piston hand brake and a Toyota T-100 clutch slave cylinder and will be installing that soon. The cost is under $200 all done, a lot better than $1500. The company that fabricates the the hoses and hard line is only25 miles away.

Still have a few things to finish up but probably towards the end of July I'll be on the road. One neat thing is I got a State of California camping pass for the state run campgrounds. In some of them I go in for free in others 50% off the normal fee. What used to be $6 to $10 now is $25 to $38 so every penny counts when fuel costs $4.37 a gallon and up.

I hope you and yours are hale and hearty. If you ever come to the SF Bay area by the Golden Gate I'll buy you a libation as long as it isn't 200 year old Scotch.

Buck1234:2thumbs::yes:

 

[buck1234]

So tell me about how the Rt shocks change the ride. After 50,000 on an RS with stock shocks I went from setting 3 to 4 and was amazed by the difference in sweeping turns. Who would have thought that. Okay I guess I am not the great test pilot.

Hello Neighbor;
The RT shocks are stiffer their rebound rate is stiffer and the are designed for more weight. The only way I can describe the difference between the RS Shock is a full sized circa 1950' s Chevy hauling ass around a corner squeling and leaning and the RT Shock at a #4 setting is like a Austin Healy Sprite zippin effortlessly around the same corner. There is no rudeness intended but that really is the difference. The Rabbit and The Turtle.


Buck1234:thumbup: