5.6 quarts of oil

[billybovine]

Went through the manuals for 1330 engines.

2014 RT idle for 30 seconds
2015 RT idle for 10 minutes
2016 F3 idle for 10 minutes
2016 RT idle for 10 minutes
2017 F3 idle for 10 minutes
2017 RT idle for 10 minutes
2018 F3 idle for 10 minutes
2018 RT idle for 10 minutes
2019 F3 idle for 20 seconds
2019 RT idle for 10 minutes at least 20 seconds????
2020 F3 idle for 10 minutes
2020 RT idle for 10 minutes

 

[Steve W.]

I am always baffled by how complicated people make this oil level thing. It's not.

After a ride.
Let it idle for 10 minutes.
Check the oil.
If it is between min and max. Do nothing. If below min. Add a 1/2 quart.

Really how hard is that!!!

I think the hardest part of that is idling for 10 minutes after a ride. When I get done riding, the bike gets parked and I am GONE.

I understand the concept of a dry sump oil system, but the Spyder seems to have a SEMI-dry sump that seems to drain back to somewhere else. Why can't the dipstick be in the separate oil reservoir? Possibly because that reservoir gets drained.

It could have been SO much easier.

.

 

[JayBros]

The 2014 RT operator's guide is, IMO, the sloppiest writing and editing project ever to come out of BRP as far as checking the oil is concerned. If you read pages 124-125 of the '14 OG and compare it with pages 127-128 of the '13 RT OG you see that the only thing they've changed in how to check the oil is in Step 2 of the '13 OG they tell you to remove some body panels while in Step 2 of the '14 OG they tell you to open the seat. For two entirely different engines they tell you the engine needs to idle for 30 seconds and the picture of the dipstick in the '14 OG is not the one that is in the 1330 engine. The biggest thing to remember regarding the 1330 engine is that when you change the oil and filter, the initial fill is 5.0 qt which brings the level on the dipstick of an engine at normal operating temperature to the min mark. You may at your discretion add additional oil but never more than 1/2 qt. I prefer to add in 2 oz increments until I see the oil level on the dipstick midway between the Min and Max marks and go ride for 9,300 miles.

 

[Blipsman]

Well update. I rode about 100 miles today. Motor nice and quite, shifts great checked oil after I got back and it was right below the top full mark just like it was after I filled it. Never heard of having to drive one till it gets hot and fans came on and all that. I have when you change radiator water but not oil. Don’t know why these things are so particular for. Any other motorcycle or car I’ve ever worked on, you change your oil put in recommended capacity. Crank it up to let the filter fill up and let oil circulate for a few minutes, cut the engine off, wipe off the dip stick, reinsert dipstick pull back out and check oil level. CanAm must have made rocket science out of it.

 

[2dogs]

Where do the oil dip sticks that were improperly labeled come into play. How many are out there being used, and what years were they produced?

 

[Peter Aawen]

..... CanAm must have made rocket science out of it.

They haven't really, it's all pretty much standard operating procedure for many High Performance DRY SUMP engines, where the oil reservoir is NOT underneath the block where all the oil will drain into it when you pour it in! And that's DEFINITELY NOT like most 'most other' motorcycles &/or cars, where they have that 'lowest point in the system' collection pool/sump underneath everything for all the oil to run down into so that you can easily check it & so that it's cheap & easy to make & for things to 'splash around in a puddle of oil' and MAYBE get lubricated properly that way!!

In Dry Sump engines, the oil reservoir is elsewhere, possibly above the lowest point in the engine, and all the oil necessary for lubricating & cooling the critical operational parts gets delivered to those critical parts by pumps & returned to the reservoir (with its level check/dipstick device) by pumps, often by 'other' pumps at that!! So if you just chuck the oil in & add until it reaches the 'Full' level in the reservoir on a Dry Sump engine, there's a good chance you'll have overfilled the block with oil, maybe even to the extent that there's no longer enough space between the bottom of the pistons & the top of the oil level for those pistons to complete a full revolution of the crank without smacking into the (non-compressible) over-full oil level! Or maybe you will have over-filled it with oil to the extent that the reservoir has leaked all the excess oil out into the over-head valve gear, filling that cavity & stopping them from working properly; or possibly to the extent that it's already filled or once started will fill the air intake tracts with over-flowing oil, ultimately draining said oil into and filling the combustion chambers with (non-compressible) oil!! Any/all of which might be on the 'worst case scenario' end of the scale, but any/all of which can produce pretty dramatic and definitely terminal results for your engine!! shocked:

Dry Sump engines are a little more complex than the engines in most cars & many motorbikes, simply because they tend to be used in different & often high performance demand situations - sometimes it's just due to the need to squeeze them into a shorter tighter space (possibly like the rather cramped space under the tupperware) or possibly it's because the engine they support is running closer to the limits of its 'power for capacity output'; or it could simply be because the designer wants a more definite & measurable way of delivering EXACTLY the correct amount of oil to EXACTLY the spot it's needed in order to keep those critical operational components safe, lubed up, and cooled appropriately!! :lecturef_smilie: And a wet sump can't do any of that anywhere near as well as a dry sump can!

Sure, you could probably stick a normal & agricultural 'wet sump' engine in a Spyder; one where most of the bottom end lubrication comes from important things splashing around in a puddle of oil as they spin..... heck, it might even be cheaper to make an engine like that too - but it'd almost certainly make for a taller engine that'd impact the CoG of your Spyder adversely; it'd probably mean the Nanny would hafta be more intrusive in order to minimise oil surge in that puddle & therefore any subsequent oil starvation to some of those critical components during cornering because of the greater affect of 'centrifugal forces' resulting from the higher CoG; and it'd almost certainly mean the engines we'd get would have less power & torque output as a result of the changes forced upon the engineers & designers if they stuck with the 'oil in a puddle under the engine' storage, cooling, and lubrication system instead of using a 'purpose designed, delivery of oil to exactly the right spots in a measurable way that's not varied by centrifugal forces system' like the Dry Sump system that our Spyders and many other cutting edge high performance engines get - because they ARE BETTER at doing that job PROPERLY!!

And yes, running a dry sump engine does mean that you need to use a different 'oil level checking' method to that you'd use for a 'splash things in a puddle' engine, but at least IMHO, the advantages FAR outweigh the disadvantages.... and by checking the oil using the correct checking method for our Spyder Dry Sump Engines, I get yet another excuse for taking a ryde!! And I KNOW that since I checked the oil level when I stopped last, then unless there's a big puddle of oil under my Spyder, the oil level is correct and my Spyder is ready to go - now! :2thumbs:

 

[Gwolf]

If you ever work on real, high performance auto engines, you will have the same oil checking methods as the Spyder. Real, high performance auto engines does not mean a souped up street car. The real racing engines used in most of the specialized racing autos are dry sump engines. The dry sump engines are used so that the crankshaft is not robbing power by spinning in a pool of oil, and so that the engines can hold 2 times or 3 times as much oil as a normal, wet sump engine. The extra oil is to help carry heat away from the engines. The racing engines use dry sump lube systems to avoid having the oil spun into foam by the high RPMs the engines are turning. It also allows the engines to be placed much lower in the frame to lower the center of gravity of the cars. If a wet sump engine was used the oil pan would need to hang down 8 to 10 inches below the engine to be large enough to hold the extra oil. With a dry sump engine, the extra oil is in the oil tank which can be almost any place in the car. It does not have to be on the bottom of the engine. The crankshaft is not splashing through the oil to lube the main bearings. The bearing are lubed by pressure, through galleries that the oil is pumped through by the oil pumps. The specialized racing engines are in cars going around the corners fast enough that G-forces would force the liquid oil in a crankcase to pool on the side of the crankcase, possibly uncovering the oil pump that lubricates the top end on the engine. That would cause oil pump cavitation and result in the valve train or other parts higher up to be starved for oil. There are many reasons the wet sump system is better for certain high performance engines. The slightly different way the oil has to be checked does not begin to balance out the advantages of a dry sump design.

Designed by Paolo Martinelli, the engine makes 835 horsepower at 17,800 RPM, uses dual-overhead cams, and comes equipped with a dry-sump lubrication system. It has a current high bid of $18,000, and it's expected to sell for somewhere between $50,000 to $70,000.

Note that there is no oil pan on the bottom of the engine. These automotive engines are normally used in Formula 1 racing. Dry sump engines are also used by NASCAR and many other high performance situations. You can even purchase a kit and convert many of the normal wet sump engines used in street cars to a dry sump system.

 

[bikerbillone]

Iteresting analysis, and complicated. Glad I have a high performnce engine.

 

[JayBros]

Where do the oil dip sticks that were improperly labeled come into play. How many are out there being used, and what years were they produced?

I don't know that any dipsticks were in fact improperly labeled. The picture of the dipstick in pg 125 of the '14 OG is on the left below. The dipstick that came in my '14 RT that was manufactured in March '14 is on the right and you can see the significant difference. I don't know where the dipstick pictured in the '14 OG actually came from; it is just not like the one that came in my engine. To my knowledge all the production 1330 engine dipsticks look like mine.

 

[2dogs]

I did a search here and could not locate the post regarding the dip stick issue that i read several years ago. It had to have been some time in late 14 or early 15. After my first 3k service i checked the oil level and it was way above the full mark. I sucked out a quart and later questioned the dealers BRP tech. He's only answer was that the employee assisting him for whatever reason put in 6 qts. As i recall there was a confusion early on regarding the newer 1330's proper engine oil capasity. Was it 5 or 5.2 or 5.6 or 6 qts.? That confusion lead to, was the dip stick properly marked? I use 5 qts. no more and no less.

 

[Doug44]

Sorry Doug. I want you to carefully read step 3. Please explain it to me. Please, please, pretty please. They blew the whole write up. It is either/or.

I see and agree with your point. However my point is it doesn't say either/ or. I agree with you BRP blew the write up. One can assume that they meant this but then you know what they say about assume