• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

30k mile first valve clearance check

mike3069

New member
I've been getting a slight "pop" in my exhaust lately @ 3000 RPM under a slight load and decided since I have over 30,000 miles on the bike and haven't yet checked the valve clearance I would start the diagnosis by trying to rule them out. So I got my valves checked today @ Progressive Motorsports in Hudson Falls, NY.

Here's what they found:

Front cylinder
Intake .152mm
Exhaust .254mm

Rear Cylinder
Intake .152mm
Exhaust .279mm

The tolerances are:

Intake .110 to .180
Exhaust .220 to .290

No adjustments made. Cost 2.5 hrs labor $170.00 plus $2.50 Shop Supply fee. Total valve check with NO adjustment $172.50:clap:

I was so happy with this cost I bought a new helmet!:ohyea:

It's not the valves, so when I got home I looked at my race flow intake and it needed a cleaning bad!
Now I will have to go for a ride in the morning to VT and see if that fixes the issue.:popcorn:If that doesn't do it I will try adjusting the juicebox next.

I'll keep ya updated.

UPDATE:

Seems that the dirty air filter was the culprit. I believe at low rpm (under 3000) the restricted flow was creating a rich enough condition that some raw fuel was getting into the pipe. When I opened the throttle to accelerate, it was igniting and creating the "pop" I was hearing. Just a theory.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for sharing your valve adjustment spec's. A guy I used to race ATC's with 25 years ago has been working on Aprilias and Rotax forever. He said the Rotax hold the adjustments very well, with minimal seat wear as long as you change the oil and don't over rev it too often. Said he wouldn't even think about it until 25,000 miles and even then only if it wasn't idling or running well.
 
Thanks for sharing the information. I'm coming up on 20,000 and was going to bypass the 24,000 mile valve check.
 
Thanks for the info! :thumbup:

You know this could be an idea for a new maintenance sticky. What if there was a thread we could go to for just entering info like this. No discussion just data: year and type of Spyder, four digit serial number, millage, readings as in this post. Think of the data we could have over a couple of years.

What say you all...
:chat:
This will mean nothing. The numerical portion of the serial number can be repeated for each Spyder model designation. Models differences include the transmission, color, and market. Thus there may be a number of Spyders carrying the numerals #1234. Year, model, submodel, and transmission would be the identifying factors.
 
Mike 3069. Good information. With 3,200 miles on BR1, this is not a big worry for me now, but will be in the future. If all our our high mileage posters give us their valve check experiences, we will have an idea of how it is going. I don't know, but I guess this clearance info is posted in BUDS when the tech checks the valves. I suspect that few need adjusted at 12K per the book. It may be a "save my axe" thingie with BRP and a nice labor charge for the dealer. JMHO

:spyder2:
 
Back
Top