• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

3000 Mile Service 2020 Spyder RT

Just curious what is ACTUALLY done by dealers during the 3000 miles service? Is there a list somewhere or is this all a "mistery" that only high price dealers are allowed to know? Putting your VIN number into the BRP system should had been done during the purchase process according to a BRP rep I spoke to last week, and an Oil change including the two filters ( if they are present on your model) should not cost 600 bucks! Other than inspection and looking it over there is nothing else to do. I guess.

In our manuals. I did everything in about an hour, including the oil change.

FIRST Inspection - 5 000 km (3,000 mi)
Perform all items indicated in the PRE-RIDE INSPECTION.
Replace engine oil and oil filter.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
111
Check brake fluid level.
Check reverse mechanism operation.
Check engine coolant level.
Check operation of control switches and passenger switches.
Check the drive belt condition and its tension (Performed by an authorized
Can-Am On-Road dealer).
Check tightening torque of the rear wheel axle nut. (Performed by an authorized
Can-Am On-Road dealer)
Visually check brake pads and discs condition.
Check passenger handholds looseness.
Check footrests looseness.
Check body panels looseness.
Check operation of storage compartment latches, hinges and key barrels
 
My dealer in Eustis FL says a little over $300 at 3K miles, after that, maybe I'll do the oil change, maybe not. I would be using full size ramps, so I'm unsure if all the oil would drain in that position. Maybe the little that's left in the sump would not matter, just a bit unsure of this self service.

Put the front wheels on ramp and you can access all the plugs (at least on my 2011) I ordered the filters and drain plug gaskets all included for like $35 bucks form Lamonster garage on line. I did not use the HCR filter because mine is Standars transmission so it does not have one. I purchased the Synthtic oil at Cycle Gear for like $24 per gallon it took me while to remove the parts and get it all tested and reassembled but I am retired so I can take all the time I need. There was one plug under the Oil reservoir that I was not able to remove (overtightened at the factory I guess) so I removed the one on the side of the tank that pretty much drains everything out. It worked out fine. and No, I would not pay a bunch of money to a dealer just to do the same stuff. I have a general mistrust of most cars and motorcycle dealers so i am old school and work on my own stuff since I have most tools anyway. At least I know it was done to my Standards and not to the least experienced member in the dealership crew.
 
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